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654 WITH A TECUMSEH ENGINE ??

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#1 OFFLINE   rockinhorse

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 08:19 PM

It's been awhile but i finely found another project tractor . This time it's a 1964 wheel horse 654 with a H60 tecumseh engine. Overall the tractor is in good shape for being a 64. Found it in ohio close to dayton. Now the bad part the tecumseh engine. I have had to rebuild the carb, cleaned the gas tank. The crab has been a real pain to get set where it runs right. But when it runs it runs very good no smoke , no noise, lots of power for a 6 hp engine. Model #on engine is H60 - 75063B serial # 3240 04702 metal tag on engine next to oil dip stick # is SBH-1690 6283F Are these the right numbers for this tractor? Serial # on tractor is A-60820 Also a question on the wiring. There is a fuse panel on the side of the engine. There are NO wires connected to this panel . The fuses in the panel are automotive fuses. Tractor is electric start. Are wires supposed to be connected to panel ? The battery stays charged and turns the engine over fine. Next question how much oil do you put in this engine ? Do you screw the dip stick in or out to check the oil level ? Hope i have explained my self ok , not had to much experience with tecumseh engines. Have started to completely tear down tractor and going to change a few things . It's going to be different when it's done .

thanks Karl
flat rock,in.

#2 OFFLINE   64s

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 08:36 PM

H60 - 75063B is correct for the 654. I'm not sure on the fuse panel. And to check the oil, rest the dip stick on the engine block, do not screw it in. Good luck with the resto.

#3 OFFLINE   ol550

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 08:38 PM

The Techy carbs can be a pain. You may need to try more cleaning and soaking to get all the crap out.
The tag number is the short block part number. A plus for you. The panel on the engine if I recall should
have one fuse and two diodes. Should have at least one wire attached to recharge the battery. I have
always checked the oil with it unscrewed. Mike

#4 OFFLINE   rj35hunter

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 08:41 PM

Karl, the tag# H60-75063B is correct/original number for that tractor, but by the other metal tag SBH-1690 6283F represents that it has a short block instead of the original block. The engine shroud with original tag was re-used onto the newer short block. Good luck!

Clay

#5 OFFLINE   specialwheelhorse

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 10:03 PM

Forever more do not overfill with oil.Techi's are notorious
For having a coniption fit with a little too much and slobering it all
over out the breather.
JIM in Texas

#6 OFFLINE   Kelly-(Vendor)

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 10:07 PM

I could be wrong but I thought the tuckys you screwed the dip stick in, the Kohlers you rest the threads on the block, again I'm not sure on this just throwing it out there to see if I'm right or wrong.

#7 OFFLINE   Terry Mooney

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 10:34 PM

changeing the subject a little but are parts still available if a person found a good H60 techy and wanted to do a rebuild on the engine? or even the carb??

#8 OFFLINE   specialwheelhorse

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 11:20 PM

Try tulsaenginewarehouse.com, I think thats close enough to get you there,
They have been my supply house for years. very good parts,prices and quick
shipping.
Jim in Texas

#9 OFFLINE   Terry Mooney

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 11:37 PM

Thanks, I'll give them a try. MY local small engine shop has a hard time getting me the 1980's stuff!?? :confusion-confused:

#10 OFFLINE   pfrederi

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 08:48 AM

View PostKelly, on 19 February 2012 - 10:07 PM, said:

I could be wrong but I thought the tuckys you screwed the dip stick in, the Kohlers you rest the threads on the block, again I'm not sure on this just throwing it out there to see if I'm right or wrong.


Kelly: You are 100% correct and we did have this discussion on the previous version of the forum. From my H60 &HH60 Tecumseh Manual see para 2 (Click to enlarge)


Posted Image

#11 OFFLINE   amcrules00

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 09:35 AM

:teasing-poke: Is the rest of that manual available for download Paul? :thanks:

#12 OFFLINE   specialwheelhorse

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 10:08 AM

Fellas I wouldn't mess with an old Tecumseh carb to
much you may never get it quit right.
If you don't mind spending forty some the warehouse (Tulsa)
has exact replacement's for H-6 And HH-6 (same carb)

#13 OFFLINE   pfrederi

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 02:42 PM

The "Fuse" panel you see is really teh charging system regulator. And yes there should be wires leading to it. I doubt very much that it is charging your battery. (what is the voltage when running?? Battery is only used to start teh tractor it runs on a magneto. You can start it dozens of time before the battery runs down enough to be noticeable.

The panel should have one glass fuse and 2 ceramic looking rectifiers, and 3 wires.

#14 OFFLINE   rockinhorse

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 04:43 PM

Ok i have read all your answers thanks a lot . Now i have more what is the oil capacity on the H60 engines. The fuse block has no wires. There is a small wire coming from behind the flywheel that goes to a post on the starter switch. The starter switch has 3 posts 1 is from positive on battery, 1 is starter switch to starter , other is the small wire from behind flywheel. Do a the H60 engines have the fuse block ?

Thanks again for all your help Karl

#15 OFFLINE   pfrederi

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 05:00 PM

No fuse block just one fuse on the rectifier panel. The wire to the flywheel is probably the magneto kill. When the short block was installed i wonder if the correct magneto/stator was reinstalled. Still think you have no charging system.

Posted Image

I think the oil capacity is around 22 ounces but use the dip stick to be sure.

#16 OFFLINE   amcrules00

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 07:24 PM

Thank you for the manual Paul. :beer:

#17 OFFLINE   rockinhorse

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 08:47 PM

I have taken the motor off of tractor . I am mounting on board so i can work on engine . Will check amps when i get everything hooked back up . The 3 wires going to fuse block where do they come from? If they start from behind the flywheel i'm in trouble. This might not be the place but i have a deck , tach a matic brackets ,lift arm and 6x12tires and rims to trade or sell from this tractor.
Thanks for all your help Karl

#18 OFFLINE   pfrederi

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 07:42 AM

The outer two come from the generator coils under the flywheel. I put electric start on my L-107 but never got the necessary charging coils/magneto to have a charging system. I put the battery on a charger ever 1-2 months and it works just fine even in the winter. I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over it if your charging coil wires are missing or cut off.

#19 OFFLINE   Buckshot 1

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 10:53 AM

Tec,s H50, 60, 70 require 19 oz's of oil. Same is true for the HH series. But like was stated check the dipstick as you add oil. I was told my an ex. Tec Rep. to screw the dipstick in.

#20 OFFLINE   amcrules00

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 11:39 AM

View Postpfrederi, on 20 February 2012 - 02:42 PM, said:

The "Fuse" panel you see is really teh charging system regulator. And yes there should be wires leading to it. I doubt very much that it is charging your battery. (what is the voltage when running?? Battery is only used to start teh tractor it runs on a magneto. You can start it dozens of time before the battery runs down enough to be noticeable.

The panel should have one glass fuse and 2 ceramic looking rectifiers, and 3 wires.

Like this? Just click on the pict to enlarge it full screen.
I especially thought the caution at the bottom was interesting...never heard that mentioned before. :scratchead:

Attached Files



#21 OFFLINE   rockinhorse

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 07:22 PM


Thanks for the wiring diagram craig that helps a lot. My fuse panel has a slot for a fuse at the top going horizontal plus the 2 like in the picture. Where do you get the rectifiers? I got the engine mounted and all hooked, engine starts fine . Have found out not to give it any gas until it's run a little. I checked the charging system with the engine running positive post to negative post and got 12.4amps. What should it be ? I wonder how many people have read that caution paragraph?

Thanks again for all the help Karl

#22 OFFLINE   pfrederi

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 07:46 PM

View Postrockinhorse, on 26 February 2012 - 07:22 PM, said:

Thanks for the wiring diagram craig that helps a lot. My fuse panel has a slot for a fuse at the top going horizontal plus the 2 like in the picture. Where do you get the rectifiers? I got the engine mounted and all hooked, engine starts fine . Have found out not to give it any gas until it's run a little. I checked the charging system with the engine running positive post to negative post and got 12.4amps. What should it be ? I wonder how many people have read that caution paragraph?

Thanks again for all the help Karl
I am assuming you read 12.4 VOLTS (not amps).. i doubt the system could generate 12 amps. A fully charged 12 volt battery should yield 12.6 volts. as I suspected your charging system is not functioning (should show oaver 13 volts running). Also as I said you can run for a long time and just recharge the battery periodically. Search the board for a source on rectifiers.





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