A few questions about the 1077

[BairleaFarm 339]

1. Is this suppose to be bent?

2. Whats this bent lever on the bottom right of the axle?

3. Should this engine be sitting on a plate of some sort?

4. Should the pulley turn on the pump when you push the tractor?

5. This will sound stupid but is there a reverse lever some where?

6. How does the hydro static drive work? do you just flip a lever(that i think im missing) and it goes? of is it the more throttle you give it the faster it goes?

[rustbucket 4]

your missing the hydro rears control lever. the bent link on the tranny goes to theat post just above it and is your parking break controler if the pully is turning i think the pump is in drive. it looks like similare set up to my tractor and i hope what ive told helps a little any ways. not too sure on the engine and other bent plate though

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Answers:

1)Yes. That bracket is angled so the "V" idler pulley for the original deck drive belt guides the belt at the correct angle under the tractor. You have the newer set-up and can ignore that all together.

2)That is the parking brake lever, which should also have a spring holding it up toward the pin protruding from the triangular plate above it. It is connected to the pawl shaft that is inside the transmission. When the belt tension release / park brake lever is pulled up, it moves the arm down, causing the pawl to engage the teeth of one of the gears inside the transaxle, much like the park pawl on an automatic transmission in a car or truck.

3)The original large sump big block Kohler oil pans are drilled and tapped up through from the bottom on the two right mounting bolts. If you look up from the bottom, you will see the other two bolts that hold the engine to the frame.

4) The shaft sticking up vertically from the pump block on the left side of the hydro unit is the tow valve. Turning the shaft by using the roll pin bypasses the hydraulic "motor" part of the hydro and allows the tractor to be pushed/towed or driven normally. The roll pin must be aligned parallel with the frame of the tractor, and if my memory is correct, the longest part of the pin should face the rear of the tractor for it to drive. If the drive belt was in place and the valve was in the "drive" position, you would not be able to push the tractor at all.

You are also missing the cooling fan that bolts to the input pulley of the hydro unit. It really should be installed so the hydro doesn't overheat and burn up.

5&6)The direction control lever assembly appears to be missing from your tractor, along with the cam plate for the front of the hydro unit. If these parts were there, you would push the stick ahead to move forward and pull it back to go in reverse. The center position is neutral and is sometimes hard to find on the old Sundstrand hydros. These pump units are intended to be operated at W.O.T. (3400-3600 rpm) and ground speed is controlled soley by the use of the DCL, not the throttle.

Looks like you have A LOT of parts to locate - especially the DCL, hydro fan and screen, and the drive belt guard. I wish you the best of luck. B)

[kj4kicks 151]

David, I have posted several pics of my original 1077. They can be seen as a MS Word doc HERE

Individual pics are HERE

They show most of the areas that you are asking about.

Hope that helps!

[BairleaFarm 339]

Thanks Eldon.

Another question. Does the Hood Stand separate from eh part that the seat sits on?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Another question. Does the Hood Stand separate from eh part that the seat sits on?

If you mean the toolbox where the fenders are bolted, the answer is yes - they were never connected.

If you mean the hood stand and the part where the DCL should be - No... they only come apart when the spotwelds break. B)

[BairleaFarm 339]

Here

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Nope.... that's supposed to be spotwelded to the hoodstand at all 4 tabs.

[kj4kicks 151]

Found some more pics that may help:

I love my 1077! It has always done everything asked of it. I would hate to see you part it out, or start swapping parts.

[BairleaFarm 339]

Which is stronger, better, cheaper/easier to repair a 4speed of the hydro? I would assume the 4 speed.

[kj4kicks 151]

The hydro on the 1077 probably works. Fix the pulleys/springs and put a belt on it to find out. Also check the fluid (ATF in this model). If all is well, I would change the filter and fluid too. Building a hybrid is asking for "issues".

[BairleaFarm 339]

I couldn't get any drawings to come up in the Master Parts Viewer so Does this tractor have a starter solenoid? My ignition switch doesn't look anything like the one on my other horse. This one have Eye connectors and screws.

Anyone know the drive belt dimensions? Where does the forward/reverse lever connect to the pump so I can rig up something so this tractor is at least movable. My cam thingy is still there.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

No solenoid on this one - battery voltage passes directly through the ignition switch.

Drive belt is #6489, which is 78" long X

[BairleaFarm 339]

Ice got no cam but at least that part is there. So in theory I should be able to move that to the left or the right and thats forward and reverse. I would assume that TDC in neutral?

[BairleaFarm 339]

The belt was connected to the pto not the drive pulley. They used the pto to engage the hydro instead of the levers. I drove it a little put it felt like the tranns was sliping. Forward and reverse felt the same. I could get off and push while its running and "in gear" and i can tell that its still trying to pull itself.

[kj4kicks 151]

Make sure you don't have a sheared key on one of the axle hubs. See if one of the axles are spinning inside the hub while it's trying to move.

[kpinnc 10,683]

David,

Next time you take it for a spin, push down on the lever that you normally pull up to disengage the transmission to crank the tractor.

Don't bear down too hard on it, but just enough to see if it makes a difference with how much "get up and go" your tractor has.

My drive belt was pretty worn on my Bronco, and it slipped quite a bit. The thing acted like the tranny was GONE!

Put a little tension on that stretched belt, and the tractor just takes off!

Needless to say, I gotta get a new belt....

Kevin

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Just A Word Of Advice... Before You Go Putting Belts On Those Pulleys You Need To Polish Them Up Real Good. With All That Rust Will Chew A Belt Up For Ya!

By The Way Nice Tractor

Cheers Duke

[BairleaFarm 339]

It gets up and go. SOmeone should have worned me that if you release the parking brake and that lever is all the forward the end result could be bad. B)

[kpinnc 10,683]

SOmeone should have worned me that if you release the parking brake and that lever is all the forward the end result could be bad.

Hope everything is OK David...

Actually, the motion control lever should not be able to move forward or back with the parking brake on. The cam that is attached to the motion control assembly will not allow it.

If your tractor does not have all those parts in the center console, I would definately get them in there before using it too much...

Kevin

[BairleaFarm 339]

On the ignition switch - does the power go through the main cable after starting? or does the switch ask as a solenoid?