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How to remove rusted muffler port


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#1 OFFLINE   Dresden Guy

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 09:05 PM

I need help / advice in removing the rusted, cast iron port in my K-341. It has a 1" fitting with a 1" nipple which I have "barrelled" it in trying to remove it. I want to put in a new pipe fitting and a different muffler. I have tried soaking it with PB Blaster..... but no luck yet.

Any thoughts? The 1" nipple is only about 1½" - 2" long, and that is the part that is now somewaht elliptical shaped.

Help!!

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#2 OFFLINE   Martin

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 09:15 PM

i have an easy way to remove these. cut it shorter, about 1/2 inch hanging out then hit the nipple from the top with a cold chisel to collapse it. then hit it from either side and it will just fall out without any damage to the threads at all. works a treat...... :)

i did one in this thread........http://www.wheelhors...post__p__247957 just scroll down a little in the first post

#3 OFFLINE   Sparky-(Admin)

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 09:16 PM

Cut it off closer to the block first. Maybe leave 3/4" of an inch. Then use a hacksaw blade on the inside to cut a slot in it lengthwise till your thru the steel pipe. Your going to hit the exhaust port threads but its allright. Once you have "split" it it should twist out. take a nice powerfull shop vac and suck out any shavings or have someone operate the shop vac while the cutting is going on. It can also be done with a saw-zall but you have better control with a hacksaw blade.

Mike...........

#4 OFFLINE   amcrules00

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 09:29 PM

Good ideas guys. :thumbs:

#5 OFFLINE   dennist

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 10:00 PM

Thanks guys, I needed the same info earlier.

#6 OFFLINE   oldredrider

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 10:26 PM

Martin's method works like a charm. I did one this weekend like that and it's almost scary how easy it is.

#7 OFFLINE   MalMac

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 07:56 AM

This topic should be pinned. Great advice.

#8 ONLINE   can whlvr

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:10 PM

ive used,the cold chisel too,it works great

#9 OFFLINE   sorekiwi

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:26 PM

Just one other hint, turn the engine over until the exhaust valve is closed before attacking it (you should be able to see it through the exhaust port).

#10 OFFLINE   Kelly-(Vendor)

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:31 PM

Good point Mike I stuff paper towel in the port if I'm sawing or using a chisel on the nipple, so I don't knock crap in the engine

#11 OFFLINE   Dresden Guy

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 10:21 PM

TA-DA!!
I used the "Martin-Method" (w/ cold chisel + hammer)..... it didn't fall out, but with a little tap here, and a tap there..... voila! I used a 6" X 6" square of fabric tied securely to a piece of cord, and stuffed that in the hole, and vacuumed the hole before pulling the fabric plug out.
If I do the "Martin-Method" again, I will leave more of the nipple sticking out, i.e - ½" and use a ½" wide cold chisel.... my chisel was too wide and pretty dull, and thus the extra effort needed.
Thanks to all for the advice - mission accomplished.

#12 OFFLINE   WH nut

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 06:58 AM

I just use an air chisel, a couple raps and they spin out.

#13 OFFLINE   Martin

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 09:44 AM

im happy that the method i use worked for you guys. it isnt actually my idea, its the way i do it, and im not sure where i found out about this method, whether it was on this forum or somewhere/somebody else.....
but its definitely not my idea...
just saying....... :)

#14 OFFLINE   wheelhorse656

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 05:22 PM

View PostMartin, on 11 February 2012 - 09:44 AM, said:

im happy that the method i use worked for you guys. it isnt actually my idea, its the way i do it, and im not sure where i found out about this method, whether it was on this forum or somewhere/somebody else.....
but its definitely not my idea...
just saying....... :)

My grandpa tought me this exact methood and I still have not found a muffler I cant get it. It works every time.... Sparkys methood works just as good but take a little more time.

#15 OFFLINE   KC9KAS

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 07:58 PM

After removal of the old piece of pipe, I use a 1" pipe tap to run through the exhaust port to clean the threads up a little before inserting a new piece of pipe.

#16 OFFLINE   oldredrider

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 08:53 PM

The 1" pipe tap is a necessity for cleaning threads. Does any anyone have a source for an "affordable" one?

#17 OFFLINE   Martin

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 09:41 PM

most of the new ones ive seen run about $40-$50. you could search surplus stores or used machinery dealers.

#18 OFFLINE   wheelhorse656

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:48 PM

Here is 2 of them I found on ebay I own the new and love it works great and came in handy!! I also have a 3/4 1/2 7/16 and a 3/8s which I ahve used for other engines and to fix oil pans with messed up threads..... One of the best investments you can make!! :thumbs:

Used
http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649

New
http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649

#19 OFFLINE   Martin

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 04:53 AM

yes, its definitely well worth it to chase/repair all threads on these engines. after a lifetime of crud, mismatched fasteners being forced into threads, etc etc, its nice to clean all of them out. makes reassembly so much easier.

#20 OFFLINE   buckrancher

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 10:35 PM

I use a 24" pipe wrench it's worked on everyone so far
good idea Martin I will try one your way sometime

Brian

#21 OFFLINE   Prater

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 12:27 AM

I used a pipe wrench and heat. Next time I will try the Martin method.

#22 OFFLINE   specialwheelhorse

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 11:58 AM

Arber fright Has a nice set of pipe taps. I'm not over shot on all that Chinese
stuff but that set is great. I think about forty something greens. I have used
2 or 3 in the set with good success.
JIM in sweltering Texas
Nice Case too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#23 OFFLINE   Martin

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 05:58 PM

View Postbuckrancher, on 15 February 2012 - 10:35 PM, said:

I use a 24" pipe wrench it's worked on everyone so far
good idea Martin I will try one your way sometime

Brian

brian, i think i would try the pipe wrench method on ones i know the history of, i think ive already done that a few times with some of the kohlers i have that only recently exhaust pipes were messed around with. just something makes me nervous about doing it with a rusty unknown exhaust though. i must admit ive even put a wrench on there at times, but had second thoughts, and the voices in my head said i would regret it, so i stopped. i dont ever want to mess one up by breaking off part of an exhaust port.
this way is actually less work and busted knuckles, so taking the easy way out works for me.......

#24 OFFLINE   Dresden Guy

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 08:36 PM

I took a pic of the replacement muffler installed. I wondered if I should use a high-temp threadlock (Loctite)since the 45 deg. elbow pipe coming from the flange is not tightened as much as it should be, but in order for the angle to work I had to leave it less than fully tightened. The muffler functions fine but it moves out of position. Any ideas?? I did not have a 1" tap to clean the threads, but they were in good shape, fortunately .....

Thanks for all the great input ....

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#25 OFFLINE   TT-(Moderator)

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 08:58 PM

View PostDresden Guy, on 17 February 2012 - 08:36 PM, said:

The muffler functions fine but it moves out of position. Any ideas??

Lock nut:

http://tewarehouse.com/7-03695

http://www.grainger....XC32?Pid=search

You can also find them (conduit lock nuts) at Lowe's, The Home Depot, ACE, etc. , just make sure they are steel.





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