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JamesBe1

K482S

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Thank Bob. I feel suitable stupid for not looking there first.

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Never feel stupid James....when exasperated sometimes it is better to ask...I know I do.......besides...it makes better conversation, and, just maybe there is somebody watching a thread that has the same question. Keep up the good work....you are really working hard on that tractor.

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Thanx Bob. Still, mine doesn't want to come off. I tried tapping it with a mallet, prying it off (lightly), everything I could think of. I guess it's just being stubborn. I soaked it in BP Blaster overnight. I'll see if it will come off this afternoon.

Not sure I want to apply heat to it. I don't want to damage the clutch material. Any ideas?

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I wouldn't heat it...probably seized up. You got the little brake pad out of the way or won't even budge a little. Might need to devise a puller of some type.

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I have a 5 ton hydraulic puller if youd like to borrow it James. I'm sure it'd be plenty to pop it off. Just let me know, maybe I could come over and give you a hand or meet you next week somewhere. I'm going down to Bethlehem to visit my Aunt and Uncle

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Thanx Bob and Jeff. I have a gear puller or two that I think I want to try out first.

It's such a nice day out, I wish I could be out there working on it, but other duties call.

I'll post how I made out once I get it off.

BTW, I snapped the screws for the other exhaust flanges. They were very old and rusty. No amount of heat and penetrating oil would have gotten them free. Once I get the block torn down, I'll put it on my drill press and carefully drill them out. Maybe I can salvage the original block even though I have a backup. My preference would be to stay with the original block, but that's just me.

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Got my new used block a couple of days ago, but hadn't had the opportunity to open it till today. Looks to be in decent shape, but haven't really checked the cylinders yet.

What is the best way to clean the block? I have some of the purple stuff (forget the correct name at the moment). I was going to put it in a large bucket of hot water with the purple stuff and take a scrub brush to it. Afterwards I was going to spray it down with WD-40 to get rid of any moisture so it doesn't rust. Does that sound appropriate?

Thanx in advance.

James

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I run the power washer from the hot water and shoot it down first. Then use the purple power and scrub places where needed. The hot water really cuts good.

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I run the power washer from the hot water and shoot it down first. Then use the purple power and scrub places where needed. The hot water really cuts good.

Yeah, I was thinking of doing that. The only thing stopping me, is that I can't find a hose connection anywhere except the main hot water feed which I think might be too hot (180 Deg) for my power washer.

I was actually contemplating installing a temp control valve to have warm water at my hydrant that I use to water the horse, but didn't want to run a maze of water lines all over the basement then over to the barn. Too bad now that I didn't. I think I'll soak it in hot water and purple power for a couple of hours and then hit it with the pressure washer since it's a nice day today.

Thanx for your advice, I appreciate it.

James

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James I have a 3300 PSI 3 GPM Robin pressure washer, I've used 180 degree water right out of a boiler hot water line with no ill effects. All I do is flush everything with cold as soon as I'm done and I never let the engine run while I'm cleaning. I start it ,hose everything down, turn it off and load up the purple power on what I'm cleaning and let it soak, when ready I start the pressure washer back up and hose it down with the most powerful tip thats safe. I have inavertantly stripped paint before.... thnakfully on nothing important...

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Jeff, I gave it a try with my craftsman 3100psi washer. I hunted around and found my faucet adapter, and hooked into a sink in the house. It didn't take long for the overtemp safety to start shooting out water, so I only used it for a couple of minutes at a time. After I was done, I ran cold water through it, and it seems to be ok. I don't think I am going to be doing that often, but at least I know that I can do that from time to time.

Dirty block:

Clean block. The pressure washer knocked off a lot of the old black paint, and also removed a lot of the old gasket material. If I had had more time, I would have spent more time knocking off the old gaskets, but I didn't want to run it for long.

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Finally found my gear puller set today and got the pto off. It took a considerable amount of force, but finally pulled free.

Next is the flywheel. These are always a pain for me.

Can anyone tell me what size nut is on the flywheel? The parts manual just refers to it as a nut.

BTW, any hints/tips/tricks to get a flywheel off would be appreciated.

James

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1&1/2" bolt on the flywheel in case anyone is wondering. Got that off, and spent the rest of yesterday afternoon taking off the flywheel. Good thing I got a cheap puller kit a couple of year back.

Today, I got the gear cover plate off along with the oil pump gear, cam shaft nut and gear and miscellaneous odds and ends. I finally learned the hard way to put things in bags and label them. I should have taken pictures, but I was all covered in oil.

Having a bit a trouble with the crankshaft gear. I got the C-clip off, but it is still stuck on there. It's not pressed on is it? I have it soaking in penetrating oil, I'll give it a few hours and try to pry it off again.

If anyone has any ideas to make it easier, I would love to hear about it.

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At first was gonna say 1 1/2....then I got to thinking 1 1/4.....then I thought better not guess....haha....

I can't remember if I had trouble or not. I think it pulled of with just my hands. It is not pressed I can tell you that. I may have had Jordon's gear pullers too.

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Thanx Bob. I finally got it. I soaked it, heated it, pried it, hammered it. Finally, it slowly started to budge. Kept moving it until it was away from the taper enough to come free. Must have taken about an hour (I am skidish about breaking things lately). Got the crankshaft out, now I gotta get the end plate off of it. I see a large c-clip that I think is holding everything together (I have to check the parts breakdown).

The crank looks scored where the rod broke. Definitely going to need machining. Now if I can just find a machine shop in my area.

The valves looked good except for the #2 exhaust which had a tan buildup (too lean?). Not sure if I should just replace the valves out of hand or not. Any opinion?

Oh yeah, I have to check the cylinders on the new block. Might need to send that for machining too.

At least I made good progress these last couple of days. Once I get the crank and bearing apart, I should be at the halfway point.

Thanx for your feedback. Sometimes it gets too quite around here. Maybe I'm in an area that not a lot of people have experience with around here. Dunno. At least it's good to hear more than the crickets chirp.

James

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I finally found a local machine shop that seems to have a good reputation (Haledon Auto Parts in Haledon NJ).

My question for anyone with an opinion - should I get the piston rods ahead of time and have them fit them to the crankshaft?

Or is that generally unnecessary.

Thanx in advance,

James

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Better do it James. I've read enough times on here to have all the replaceable parts available for the machine shop. Probably should take the crank there and get them to measure if a 10 under will do first. Same with the bore on the cylinders if you are doing that also. Get them checked to see how big you need to go. Then buy the required parts and take everything back for them.

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Good advice Bob. I'll do that. There are a couple of rods on ebay at the moment for a reasonable price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200732975342?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I'll have them check the crank first to make sure that I can make -0.010 before I buy the parts.

I checked the cylinders on the used block that I got off of ebay the other week. Surprise, surprise, the cylinders weren't even to their wear limit. I checked it five different times, multiple ways before I was satisfied with my data. I'll probably check it again a couple of more times to be sure. I'll probably pick up new pistons and rings too.

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Getting prepped to sway the engines between by D-180's. I figured I would take the opportunity to clean up the receiver D-180. I sprayed it down with the purple stuff and let it sit for half an hour and sprayed it down again and let it sit a few minutes before hitting it with the hose. Not too much came off. I tried it again, and still about the same. The old grime on the front of the frame was pretty stubborn. I got out the pressure washer and hooked into the hot water and hit it after soaking it down with the purple stuff and letting it sit a while. I spend about 20 minutes spraying the grime away. Lots of paint went with it to, so I decided to hit it with a coat of paint while I was at it.

Here is the finished product. And yes, I did over-spray onto the wheels. But I am going to take them off and repaint them eventually anyway.

I sure wish Jeff was there to help me get it back up the hill to the shed.

Oh yeah, I need to remember to strategically remove the paint in a spot or two to make a good engine-frame ground path.

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I wish I lived closer bud. Its kinda hard for me to spend $100 in gas and 3.5 hours driving to help you get it up the hill... :ychain: . I'm glad youre progressing. Pretty soon she will be motivating up and down the hill on her own with you at the helm.... Seroiusly though if you get a bunch of stuff going on, I can come down for the day again.

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I wish I lived closer bud. Its kinda hard for me to spend $100 in gas and 3.5 hours driving to help you get it up the hill... :ychain: . I'm glad youre progressing. Pretty soon she will be motivating up and down the hill on her own with you at the helm.... Seroiusly though if you get a bunch of stuff going on, I can come down for the day again.

Thanx buddy. I knew I could count on you. If I have any major jobs requiring two people, I'll ask. I'll help out with the gas. Sorry I can't help out with the travel time.

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Found a machine shop that handles this type of work. They look pretty decent. Anyhow, received my -.010 rods, and dropped the crank and rods off at the machine shop hoping for the best.

I got a message earlier that the crankpin is out of round, and won't make -.010. Darn!

I was wondering, would it be out of the question to ask them to shave off .010 from the piston rods? I can't imagine that this was designed at the ragged edge of tolerances that it couldn't take the loss of metal.

Opinions?

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James, I am by far an expert with this stuff, but to me if the crank is too out of round for -10 then you better go to -20....like I said....I'm no expert. To take 10 off a -10 rod you would be back to 0. Of course I could have missed the boat here also....I've been stranded before.

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Thanx Bob. I respect your input. Even though you are not an expert, it's nice to hear a second opinion.

I guess I explained it poorly, but I think you got the general idea. Increase the diameter of the rods from -10 to -20.

I would have no problem going -20, but Kohler doesn't make -20 rods for this engine. So I figured - why not make them myself? Actually, have the machine shop make them. I am pretty sure that if they can hone a cylinder to a larger bore, they can do a piston rod. Is there something to the process that I am not getting?

Thanx,

James

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Well James the rods would have to be built up. Think about it...they have to shave the crank. The crank is a smaller diameter and the rods have more metal not less to fill the void.

Example....take your wedding ring off. The ring is the rod and the crank is your finger. Stick your little finger in the ring.

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