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I'm thinking about buying a Leak down tester. Looking online they range from $29 to $200+. Harbor freight sells a Pittsburg brand one for $39. And several other companies sell that same looking one (Different names) for $29 to$49: There is an OTC brand one for $&9 and $199.
So what do y'all use?
Does anyone have the Harbor Freight one? I'm a little skeptical l, but like the price for the little bit I will use it. Of course if it's not accurate it a worthless .
This is my first post. Several years ago I bought a c120 auto and have used it to mow and snowplow with great success. The other night in the midst of a snow storm I was in a hurry to get going, and didn't check the oil and didn't give the engine enough time to warm up. Result seems to be a broken connecting rod, since it cranks now much faster than it did before and won't start when it was a terrific starter before.
So I'm looking for ways to repair the damage I've done. I really love the tractor, comparing it to modern ones that feel like tin foil convinces me that I want to fix this iron horse.
I am in southwest Michigan, and looking for help.
thanks in advance.
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?
I have a D 200 and my sons have been cutting the lawn this summer and nerver check th oil and the seized the motor. I freed the motor up and it runs fine until there is a load. I checked the Compression and I have one dead hole. ;-( it broke my heart. I have a Mower, tiller, and snow thrower.
Any Advise? Should I buy a motor? Or rebuild or scrap?? I liked the machine. But I dont want to dump a ton of money into it if it is questionable. I am not sure if it is a Kohler or Onan?? Any thoughts
I have a 79 C-111 that I pulled a running 11hp briggs and stratton engine from and also a front push blade. I am looking to sale both. Push blade 200 Engine 100
I also have the original mowing deck for this mower. I am looking for a WH pull behind tiller attachment, maybe trade?