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JamesBe1

K482S

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I have a d-180 that I am trying to bring back to life. It's been lots of headaches and learning opportunities along the way.

The latest problem that I am having is with the engine.

The left cylinder smokes. I pulled the head off and what I found is in the picture. There was a fair amount of oil collected in the bottom of the cylinder. Enough that it ran down to the end. I stupidly wiped it away before I took the pic, but otherwise, this is how I found it. Does this indicate bad rings?

There are some other symptoms that may or may not be from the same cause. Sometimes the right cylinder smokes. It's intermittent. The left cylinder smokes more, but not all the time. I have what appears to be oil (what else could it be?) coming from the governor into the carb. It's a nice steady stream. Not enough to kill the engine, but pretty steady. There was a small oil leak around the governor output shaft, but it seems to have stopped or decreased to nil.

I took the governor cover off and found some small pieces of metal in it. Apparently, there is sorta a star looking washer that started to disintegrate. The governor shaft looks blue. Would that be from overheating? I cleaned everything up nicely minus the star washer, and there is no discernible change in the engine performance I really wasn't expecting any.

I had it out and drove it around, but it looses power after five or 10 minutes. It also runs very not (at least in my opinion (I am no expert)).

I think it's missing an engine shroud under the right cylinder. Can anyone confirm that one should be there? Other than that, all the tin looks to be complete.

Let's see, what else - The rpm's vary if I idle it then open the throttle again. It usually starts to lower in rpm after two or three cycles of this.

It appears to be using a lot of gas. I have an electric fuel pump and an inline filter. I can see the filter empty out of the filter after a few minutes of running. Possibly I need a new fuel pump. I can check the flow easily enough, but then again, how much flow is necessary? Anyone have any ideas?

Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx,

James

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James, I cant wait to hear some of the opinions of the experts on here. It seems like youre having a few issues with your engine. Im looking for some clarification, what is making you think thats it running too hot? There are no temperature inicators anywhere so where are you drawing your overheating conclusion? As far as your right cyclinder missing a shroud from the bottom. Mine doesnt have 1 either so I cant help you with that one. Your wandering RPMs issue could be caused by a carb that needs rebuilt. Mine did the same thing and after I tore it down, cleaned it, rebuilt it and reset to factory specs, it ran great. Fuel pump issue next, I had the same problem with mine and the pump was bad. I'm not sayin your is, but if you pull the line off of the carb and turn the key to on that the pump runs, you should have a steady stream coming out of the fuel line. Mine barely dribbled out and even then it was only intermittent. I replaced my pump with a Mr. Gasket 12s universal low pressure pump and it has a constant stream when on. Also where are you gaining you impression of "losing power after 5 or 10 minutes"? It might be unrelated to any engine issues and be a bad hydro pump or motor. My 18 auto was the same way. Once I took the pump and motor out and took them to an expert, it became clear that my machine was run out of oil, thereby destroying the hydro pump and motor.. Im looking forward to all the pros answers.... and good luck. I wish we lived closer together, it sounds as if we could be a benefit to each other on our respectives quests to save our abused equipment.

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James, I cant wait to hear some of the opinions of the experts on here. It seems like youre having a few issues with your engine. Im looking for some clarification, what is making you think thats it running too hot? There are no temperature inicators anywhere so where are you drawing your overheating conclusion? As far as your right cyclinder missing a shroud from the bottom. Mine doesnt have 1 either so I cant help you with that one. Your wandering RPMs issue could be caused by a carb that needs rebuilt. Mine did the same thing and after I tore it down, cleaned it, rebuilt it and reset to factory specs, it ran great. Fuel pump issue next, I had the same problem with mine and the pump was bad. I'm not sayin your is, but if you pull the line off of the carb and turn the key to on that the pump runs, you should have a steady stream coming out of the fuel line. Mine barely dribbled out and even then it was only intermittent. I replaced my pump with a Mr. Gasket 12s universal low pressure pump and it has a constant stream when on. Also where are you gaining you impression of "losing power after 5 or 10 minutes"? It might be unrelated to any engine issues and be a bad hydro pump or motor. My 18 auto was the same way. Once I took the pump and motor out and took them to an expert, it became clear that my machine was run out of oil, thereby destroying the hydro pump and motor.. Im looking forward to all the pros answers.... and good luck. I wish we lived closer together, it sounds as if we could be a benefit to each other on our respectives quests to save our abused equipment.

Thanx for the encouragement Hodge. I know that I am going to eventually get this tractor into fine running order. I got it specifically for the FEL. I have a horse, and it leaves lots of manure around. It would be great to just scoop it up into a big pile to turn occasionally for the garden as fertiliser.

Anyhow, I had it running this afternoon, and drove it around for five or ten minutes. I ran out of gas and had to go fetch the can and fill it. After I got it back to the shed and parked it, I decided to take the FEL pump off of the front of it to clean and repaint. I touched the PTO, and burned the heck out of my hand. Really hot! And it had been sitting for several minutes. After I got the pump off, I picked the the belt, and had to drop it because it was so hot. Very strange. I have several thermometers around, but I don't know what is the appropriate temp in any specific location.

I got a bucket of carb cleaner this evening, and will probably clean up the carb tomorrow and order a rebuild kit. I'll replace the fuel filter - it actually has two filters, one back by the tank the I replaced last week, and the other up by the carb. The one by the carb is the one that I can see emptying out.

I was reading Brian Miller's site, and came upon something about a piston having carbon buildup that is partially washed away, and pooling oil in the cylinder. He said that it is an indication of bad rings. I don't look forward to pulling the engine off and opening it up, but if that's what I gotta, I gotta do.

BTW, who did you have rebuild your hydro pump, and how bad was the cost. Strange that when I am working, I have no time to do this stuff, but when I am not, I have limited funds for it. Catch-22.

Yeah, too bad your not a few miles closer. I get out to stroudsburg on occasion, but usually not much further than that. Oh well, if you are in a jam and need a hand, let me know. I can spend an afternoon out that way.

James

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I would suggest doing a leak down test on the engine. Also when you say it looses power does the engine labor/slow down or does the engine maintain speed but the tractor doesn't move well. (First is engine problem second more likely a hydro issue). The PTO and belt being hot... Either the belt is incorrectly tensioned and slipping or the PTO itself is slipping and needs adjustment.

As tot the governor it I am not that familiar with it...no problems on mine.

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I would suggest doing a leak down test on the engine. Also when you say it looses power does the engine labor/slow down or does the engine maintain speed but the tractor doesn't move well. (First is engine problem second more likely a hydro issue). The PTO and belt being hot... Either the belt is incorrectly tensioned and slipping or the PTO itself is slipping and needs adjustment.

As tot the governor it I am not that familiar with it...no problems on mine.

Hi Paul. Great idea. I'll hunt down a leak down tester and give it a shot. Also, the engine sounds change considerably. It switches to a high whining sound, then sometimes a more tapping sound. All of this varies from run to run. I wonder what would be the effects of a bad or dying oil pump? Any idea what the correct oil pressure should be?

Anyhow, the engine labors/slows down. When it is running well, it pulls very well. It will rip up my lawn if I punch it.

As for the PTO, note that it was not engaged at all. Still, extremely hot.

Once it warms up a little more today, I am going to clean the carb and readjust it.

James

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I would suggest doing a leak down test on the engine. Also when you say it looses power does the engine labor/slow down or does the engine maintain speed but the tractor doesn't move well. (First is engine problem second more likely a hydro issue). The PTO and belt being hot... Either the belt is incorrectly tensioned and slipping or the PTO itself is slipping and needs adjustment.

As tot the governor it I am not that familiar with it...no problems on mine.

Hi Paul. Great idea. I'll hunt down a leak down tester and give it a shot. Also, the engine sounds change considerably. It switches to a high whining sound, then sometimes a more tapping sound. All of this varies from run to run. I wonder what would be the effects of a bad or dying oil pump? Any idea what the correct oil pressure should be?

Anyhow, the engine labors/slows down. When it is running well, it pulls very well. It will rip up my lawn if I punch it.

As for the PTO, note that it was not engaged at all. Still, extremely hot.

Once it warms up a little more today, I am going to clean the carb and readjust it.

James

Might be set to tight then..not completely disengaging.

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I would suggest doing a leak down test on the engine. Also when you say it looses power does the engine labor/slow down or does the engine maintain speed but the tractor doesn't move well. (First is engine problem second more likely a hydro issue). The PTO and belt being hot... Either the belt is incorrectly tensioned and slipping or the PTO itself is slipping and needs adjustment.

As tot the governor it I am not that familiar with it...no problems on mine.

Hi Paul. Great idea. I'll hunt down a leak down tester and give it a shot. Also, the engine sounds change considerably. It switches to a high whining sound, then sometimes a more tapping sound. All of this varies from run to run. I wonder what would be the effects of a bad or dying oil pump? Any idea what the correct oil pressure should be?

Anyhow, the engine labors/slows down. When it is running well, it pulls very well. It will rip up my lawn if I punch it.

As for the PTO, note that it was not engaged at all. Still, extremely hot.

Once it warms up a little more today, I am going to clean the carb and readjust it.

James

Might be set to tight then..not completely disengaging.

I did notice that it wants to turn. The mechanism rattles a bit and comes in contact with the clutch plate often. What is supposed to lock it back away from the clutch plate? I don't see any springs - of course they could be missing on mine.

James

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I would suggest doing a leak down test on the engine. Also when you say it looses power does the engine labor/slow down or does the engine maintain speed but the tractor doesn't move well. (First is engine problem second more likely a hydro issue). The PTO and belt being hot... Either the belt is incorrectly tensioned and slipping or the PTO itself is slipping and needs adjustment.

As tot the governor it I am not that familiar with it...no problems on mine.

Hi Paul. Great idea. I'll hunt down a leak down tester and give it a shot. Also, the engine sounds change considerably. It switches to a high whining sound, then sometimes a more tapping sound. All of this varies from run to run. I wonder what would be the effects of a bad or dying oil pump? Any idea what the correct oil pressure should be?

Anyhow, the engine labors/slows down. When it is running well, it pulls very well. It will rip up my lawn if I punch it.

As for the PTO, note that it was not engaged at all. Still, extremely hot.

Once it warms up a little more today, I am going to clean the carb and readjust it.

James

Might be set to tight then..not completely disengaging.

I did notice that it wants to turn. The mechanism rattles a bit and comes in contact with the clutch plate often. What is supposed to lock it back away from the clutch plate? I don't see any springs - of course they could be missing on mine.

James

Since I had it running today, I investigate the possibility of friction from the PTO. I bungied (sp?) the engagement lever back so that it isn't free to fall forward. After driving it around a few minutes like before, I parked it and checked the PTO temp. Not bad at all. No overheating like before.

Not sure if that was the cause of the problem. The carb cleaning might have had something to do with it as it might have been running lean. Oh yeah, I also took out the old fuel filter and line coming from the fuel pump. I tried to pick up a fuel filter at Pep Boys the other day, but they claimed that they didn't have any in stock. So I decided to take it out completely. I have a new one located in the line near the gas tank.

I am leaning towards the PTO not disengaging as the overtemp problem, but who knows. It still doesn't have much power.

Thanx all (especially Paul) for your help and patience.

James

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Folks, I little help here. Can anyone tell me why there is vapor coming out of my carb?

I can see oil running out of the line that comes from the governor. Is that some kind of PCV setup on this engine?

Here is a pic of the oil in the bottom of the car elbow after it has been running a little while:

Also, here is a vid of it running. Note the fumes/vapor coming out of the carb.

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James,

Its been over a month since I had mine running( jeez I cant believe I've had this thing torn apart that long)...anyway....Mine has never done what your tractor is doing. I'm not a small engine professional by any means, but from my understanding of carbs, they are like vacuums. They take air in, across the venturi where fuel mixes in and then into the cylinders. There shouldnt be anything blowing out of it. There should be enough air velocity to pull in any vapor like that, at least I think. Maybe I shouldnt even be offering any advice. Did you ever do your leakdown test or even a compression test on the engine. I also have no oil whatsoever in my carb elbow. I'm hoping Paul will be on soon and have some ideas. Hes got alot of knowledge locked in his brain....

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Thanx Jeff. Yeah, what is going on is that the crankcase vapors are routed to the governor assembly via a 1/4" copper tube. On top of the governor assembly is a rubber hose that connects to the carb elbow. This is where the oil is coming from. Shouldn't the crankcase have a slight vacuum??? In this case, it looks like it's got pressure.

I couldn't find a leakdown tester at Pep Boys, and wasn't sure if I really wanted to buy one as it doesn't get used too often. Maybe this weekend, I'll take a trip down to the Harbor Freight and see what I can pick up there.

Don't worry about giving advice, it's always welcome.

BTW, just as I pulled it out of my shed yesterday, the muffler fell off. Rusted through at the seam. I guess that's my next endeavour.

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Lack of power and crankcase vapors blowing into the carb...sounds like worn rings. It allows blowby to the crank case and instead of a vacuum you have pressure.

On a more positive thought the crankcase breather valve may have failed. (Note it is not like the flapper valve commonly used on most Kohlers.) Frankly I am not that familiar with it. (Click to enlarge manual paragraph)

883307174043604.jpg

You can build your own leakdown guage I have seen thread about that. in the interim you could just apply about 70 lbs of air to a cylinder at TDC and listen to where th air leaks out (Carb, exhaust or oil filler) Make sure you have something to keep teh engine from trying to turn over. (Lock up the PTO for instance)

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Cheaper than leak down would be a vacuum test

click to enlarge

2d05a9174044667.jpg

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Thanx Paul. You're one of the best around here.

I came to the same conclusion about the rings. I reading Brian Miller's page where he says that partially washed off carbon deposits on the piston are a sign of bad rings, I have been leaning in that direction. This should at least confirm it. Not looking forward to removing the engine in a cold shed in the winter, but I got no choice.

Now that it has warmed up around here a little today, I think I might try slapping together a manometer and seeing what I get. I might first try putting something (palm of my hand maybe) over the oil tube and check for pressure. I am not looking for an accurate measurement, just confirmation.

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I made a manometer, and checked the crankcase. There is definitely no vacuum. Actually a little pressure is indicated. It pushed the water column down an inch or two. I imagine the the rest of the pressure was released via the crankcase breather valve into the carb.

I keep circling it, but there is no way around it. I'm gonna have to do the rings.

I was thinking about sliding it forward on the tractor frame rails, and laying it back to rest with the flywheel side on the frame rails. It sounds a lot easier than hauling it 30 yards and down a flight of steps to my basement.

Paul (or anybody) ever done this before? I'd love to hear from some of the experts here.

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I have had my engine off but never apart to that level. It is not like the KT series with removable jugs (like old VWs or my M274), it is one piece cast iron block (read heavy) I couldn't find a weight but a KT 17 weight 120 lbs. This has got to weigh alot more. That said I think you would be further ahead getting some help and hauling it down to the basement. This isn't something to do outside this time of year. Also you may want to take teh block to a machine shop for boring. Or you could load it up and come over to my place north of Scranton Pa and we could work on it here.

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I like the sound of option 2 I have an extra set of hands that would love to be involved at Pauls house....

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Thanx Paul and Jeff. Interesting new information. I took the heads off to see what size the pistons were. They turned out to be standard. When I took the No. 2 head off, gas came pouring out of it. So I rotated the engine to pop the piston out so that I could read the top of it . . . and it didn't move. Aha! That explains a lot! Funny that it would even run as well as it did on one cylinder, unless this just just happened with the last hour as I had it running shortly before.

So, I started dismantling everything. I got much further than I expected. I was able to remove everything that needed removing, undid the engine bolts, and slid it forward. I was able to roll it back nicely to sit on the frame rails (you need to remove the spline coupler so that it doesn't get squished). BTW, now it's easy to find the oil pressure adjuster!

I just got dark, and I was loosing steam, so decided to call it a night. I hate working in the cold - when you smack you knuckles in this weather, it really hurts.

It's supposed to snow tonight and tomorrow, so I may or may not be working on it this weekend. I have plenty of other oars in the water at the moment.

Thanx for the offer of option two, but since I am this far, and Scranton is a long ride for me, I think I'll keep doing what I'm doing. I think I have the hardest parts out of the way. I'll try to take pics if I am not too greasy.

Keep your fingers crossed, maybe I can get by without having to pull the crank and having it machined.

James

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im no expert on this style of engine,are you going to have the machineist measure the crank also,as well as the bores ,lots of times the crank needs turned too,from what ive gathered in all my years wrenching is that it never seems to pay to do it half way,do it all and do it once,just my 2 cents

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im no expert on this style of engine,are you going to have the machineist measure the crank also,as well as the bores ,lots of times the crank needs turned too,from what ive gathered in all my years wrenching is that it never seems to pay to do it half way,do it all and do it once,just my 2 cents

Thanx Can. I was going to measure them myself as I have the tools and am capable enough (not expert). I'd love nothing more than to tear it down completely and have a nice rebuilt engine, but funding probably won't allow for that right now. I'm probably going to do as little as I can get away with to get my machine up and running. Hopefully the crank isn't wiped out. I can hone the cylinders myself by hand, but I can't get as fancy as reboring them. I am sure that I am going to make some mistakes and learn a lot along the way.

James

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its good you have the tools to check,if your crank is worn too much then you will know,no use throwing $ at her if the basics arnt true,hope for the best and maybe she will be within specs,but it sounds like she ready for a refreshing

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Finally got up my courage to take the oil pan off of my K482S this afternoon. Good thing it was sunny out and warm in my shed.

Here is the engine sitting on the frame rails:

Here is the engine with the oil pan removed:

Closeup of crankcase. Things are looking pretty bad at this point.

Closeup of crankshaft. Looks pretty bad, but I am no expert. But from my limited past experience, this should be nice and shiny.

Piston rod debris sitting on top of oil pump screen. The screen was pretty gunked up as was the bottom of the oil pan.

Cylinder No.2 from inside the crankcase. You can already see that the piston skirt is broken.

Debris in the oil pan. I have it draining at the moment. No doubt there are a lot more pieces in there.

Pushed the piston out with a long screwdriver, and here it is:

This is a shot of crankshaft through cylinder No.2

I am amazed that this thing ran so well on one cylinder. Unless it just happened to break just before I shut it off. What would be the odds of that?

Suggestions, options? Anyone? Buhler?

Is it worth pulling the crankshaft out and having it remachined? What does something like that cost?

Do I have to take the flywheel off of the other side to get the crankshaft out (double-plus unfun)?

I have to go hunt down my boregage and let it sit in the house overnight to warm up. It's been sitting in my barn for probably a year. I'll try to take measurements tomorrow. Dunno if it's worth the bother or not. I really don't want to tear this down to the block and have it completely remachined (can't really afford it atm).

I might just have to put it back together and park this thing and wait for better times.

BTW, anyone know where I can get another K482 without having to pay through the nose?

Thanx in advance for all your input.

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James: Those are some depressing pictures. The crank may not be as bad as it looks if that is just connecting rod bearing material that built up on the crank.. (As John Candy said in Planes Trains and Automobiles... " it will buff right out")

Unless you heard a loud noise this happened in the past.

These cast iron Kohlers were heavy duty motors, some PO must have really abused it (or run her out of oil) to have that damage. Just curious was their an hour meter on it???

My opinion (worth 2 cents at best) is not to do a half way repair job, a future failure could be catastrophic. I would wait until you could have the necessary machine shop work done.

To add rain on your parade, if the PO was that lax on engine maintenance (or the motor has that many hours on it) you have to wonder about the condition of the hydro system.

By th way the offer stands, throw the motor in the trunk and bring it up here (heated work space!) and there is a decent reasonably priced machine shop near me.

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Finally got up my courage to take the oil pan off of my K482S this afternoon. Good thing it was sunny out and warm in my shed.

Here is the engine sitting on the frame rails:

Here is the engine with the oil pan removed:

Closeup of crankcase. Things are looking pretty bad at this point.

Closeup of crankshaft. Looks pretty bad, but I am no expert. But from my limited past experience, this should be nice and shiny.

Piston rod debris sitting on top of oil pump screen. The screen was pretty gunked up as was the bottom of the oil pan.

Cylinder No.2 from inside the crankcase. You can already see that the piston skirt is broken.

Debris in the oil pan. I have it draining at the moment. No doubt there are a lot more pieces in there.

Pushed the piston out with a long screwdriver, and here it is:

This is a shot of crankshaft through cylinder No.2

I am amazed that this thing ran so well on one cylinder. Unless it just happened to break just before I shut it off. What would be the odds of that?

Suggestions, options? Anyone? Buhler?

Is it worth pulling the crankshaft out and having it remachined? What does something like that cost?

Do I have to take the flywheel off of the other side to get the crankshaft out (double-plus unfun)?

I have to go hunt down my boregage and let it sit in the house overnight to warm up. It's been sitting in my barn for probably a year. I'll try to take measurements tomorrow. Dunno if it's worth the bother or not. I really don't want to tear this down to the block and have it completely remachined (can't really afford it atm).

I might just have to put it back together and park this thing and wait for better times.

BTW, anyone know where I can get another K482 without having to pay through the nose?

Thanx in advance for all your input.

James I have the same problem with the new 18 auto that I just purchased (knew this before purchase)

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James: Those are some depressing pictures. The crank may not be as bad as it looks if that is just connecting rod bearing material that built up on the crank.. (As John Candy said in Planes Trains and Automobiles... " it will buff right out")

Unless you heard a loud noise this happened in the past.

These cast iron Kohlers were heavy duty motors, some PO must have really abused it (or run her out of oil) to have that damage. Just curious was their an hour meter on it???

My opinion (worth 2 cents at best) is not to do a half way repair job, a future failure could be catastrophic. I would wait until you could have the necessary machine shop work done.

To add rain on your parade, if the PO was that lax on engine maintenance (or the motor has that many hours on it) you have to wonder about the condition of the hydro system.

By th way the offer stands, throw the motor in the trunk and bring it up here (heated work space!) and there is a decent reasonably priced machine shop near me.

Your certainly right Paul. This poor tractor has obviously had a rough past. You can tell by all the layers of paint all over the body. At one point (I think the 3rd layer), somebody painted it all blue. I am sure at one point it was used hard and not taken are of. I guess it's a testament to their robustness that this thing still ran halfway decent.

Sorry, but there wasn't an hour meter on it. I will definitely add one if/when I rebuild the engine.

I've already replaced the hydro pump and motor, and I was able to drive it around. Didn't have much by way of power though. I spent a lot of time the hydro end of it, thinking that was the issue, but I guess this is the real heart of it.

Thanx for your kind offer. I will mull it over, but the price of the parts alone would kill me. The sad thing is, is that parts for these are getting scarcer and scarcer every day. If I do bring it out, I'll bring Jeff along for the ride. :)

I guess I'll just have to keep my ear to the ground for a good used motor at a reasonable price. I can't see getting rid of it. I have an FEL and a tiller (in parts) for it.

I wish I had a good machine shop out my way. The last place I tried charged me over 200 to machine a crank for a 1 cylinder honda engine. Fool me once . . .

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      A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud ....
       
      D180 startup.mp4
       
      If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link -
       
       
       
      I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter .
       
      Sarge
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • By D250power
      Hi I am looking for a distributor drive gear for the Renault 800  on the d250.  Also a cylinder head. I lost the gear.
    • By Rob R
      Hi folks Brewster Rob here, was gifted a Cub Cadet LTX 1040 in great shape other then a completely blown 19HP in-famous Kohler Courage SV590, today I acquired a 17HP Pro OHV CV490S in perfect running condition.... so I want to swap the engines. They have identical vertical shafts question is the electrical. The Courage had four wires coming from the engine red/green/white/purple, the Pro has 3 white, 1blk and 1 red.  I also have the alternator and regulator from the blown Courage.... might I be able to swap alternators???  I of course have the old Courage key switch I do NOT have the new engine key switch.........  Need help from the Red Square wizards and PLEASE think about the best result way to go here.... thank you in advance. 
    • By Clay Dodson
      RAINES AUCTIONS **LIVE AUCTION SEPT 16TH @ 10:00 AM WITH PREVIEW FRIDAY 9:00-5:00 AND ON SATURDAY @ 8:00 AM UNTIL AUCTION TIME**   <CLICK HERE FOR PARTIAL CATALOG>      ^^PRE REGISTER NOW TO AVOID LONG LINES ON THE MORNING OF THE AUCTION.  CALL KATIE AT 540 775 3880, SHE WILL ISSUE YOU A BIDDERS NUMBER.  THEN JUST SHOW YOUR ID AND PICK UP YOUR BID CARD ON FRIDAY AFTERNOON OR SATURDAY MORNING^^           See below for 3 preview videos of the BIGGEST selection ever of Farm Tractors, Garden & Yard Tractors, Riding & Push Mowers, Implements, Bush Hogs, Finish Mowers, Chain Saws, Weed Eaters, Generators, Snow Blowers, Chippers, Tillers and tons MORE all SOLD ABSOLUTE RAIN OR SHINE!!!!    Including 80+ Wheel Horse Tractors, Wheel Horse Raider Models 10, 12, 211-4, 656, 416-8, C-160, Wheel Horse Charger Models 12, GT-14, A100, C160, D160, D200 w/blade, 310 B, 856, 317, 332, 854, 212-6, 211-5, 520-8, 211-3, C-120, Lawn Ranger,  Antique & Rare Tractors including David Bradley Suburbans, Panzer T707 & Chain Driven Bolens, John Deere Models 650, 110, 112 L, 70, 420, 214, 316, 317, 318, 160, 111, 116, 212, 216, 332, Massey Ferguson 135 Diesel, Economy Power Kings & Jim Dandy models 1614, 2414, 2418 & others, Ford, 2 Yanmar 1500 & 2000, Simplicity Models 725 w/blade, 9020, 6216, Baron 7014, 7114, 2210, 3414, 637, 3012, 3410, 728, 3415, 3314, 7116, 7117, 5116 Special, 6211, 9020, Early Speedex Chain Driven Tractor, Scarce Very Clean Pennsylvania Meteor Model 1010, Gravely, Allis Chalmers, Case, Turf Trac, Toro, Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, Honda, Craftsman and many many others.    ***CLICK HERE FOR PREVIEW VIDEO #1***   ***PREVIEW VIDEO #2***   ****PREVIEW VIDEO #3***     ##LOAD OUT TERMS ARE AS FOLLOWS## THERE WILL BE AN INDEPENDENT PERSON LOADING OUT LARGE MOWERS & TRACTORS FOR $10 PER UNIT IF YOU NEED THAT SERVICE.  DUE TO THE LACK OF ROOM, THERE WILL BE *NO* LOADING USING LARGE EQUIPMENT UNTIL AFTER 2:00 PM. WE WILL SELL THE TRACTORS & EQUIPMENT IN THE FRONT AREA FIRST SO LOAD OUT CAN START ONCE WE ARE DONE WITH THAT AREA, ABOUT 2:00 PM.  YOU WILL ALSO BE ABLE TO LOAD OUT ALL DAY SUNDAY, MONDAY AND TUESDAY THE 19TH UNTIL 5:00 PM.  AT THAT POINT, ANY ITEMS LEFT BEHIND WILL BE SALVAGED UNLESS YOU HAVE PRIOR PERMISSION FROM THE AUCTIONEERS, RAY RAINES OR CLAY DODSON.   ^^SPECIAL RATES AT THE ZION CROSSROADS BEST WESTERN (WHICH IS ONLY 3 MILES FROM THE SALE) IF YOU MENTION RAINES AUCTIONS^^  CALL 540 832 1700 AND REMEMBER TO MENTION RAINES AUCTIONS TO SAVE$$$~     **CLICK HERE FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS SUGGESTIONS**    Mark your calendar now for this Colossal auction that is not to be missed~    Ray Raines Auctions VA License #3395
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