Jump to content
Lawn Ranger kid

Windolph in the snow

Recommended Posts

I thought I'd post the pictures of the linkage I've fabricated anyway. I think I may have to do another if I have trouble adjusting this one.

 

 

 

 
As I explained in another post, the original linkage (which may have been fabricated by the first owner, but maybe not) had a "dog leg" that passed through the governor arm. Then passed through a supporting/guide bolt, and then through the firewall, had a spring on the end with a length of chain that pinned to the throttle plunger. My thinking was that it shouldn't make a difference which end the spring was on, and one couldn't change the location of the rod position without removing a bunch of stuff to get the silly "dog leg" out to insert into another position hole. So I attached the spring to the lever and into a hole I drilled through the 1/8th inch rod. I'll play with it some more (after reading up on the governor in the manual) and see what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know trying to get any governor

To stop "hunting" will drive you

Crazy! Reminds me of trying to

Set the injector rack on A Detroit

Diesel. It's the domino effect. You

Change one setting and then three

Other measurements are out of

Spec. Good Luck.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know trying to get any governor

To stop "hunting" will drive you

Crazy! Reminds me of trying to

Set the injector rack on A Detroit

Diesel. It's the domino effect. You

Change one setting and then three

Other measurements are out of

Spec. Good Luck.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

 

I spent a few years as a Generator Mechanic working on military generators, all with governors. I understand of what you speak.

 

The two and three kilowatt "002" and "003" generators with Onan air cooled diesels could drive a man to throw a screw driver against the shop wall sometimes. It was not uncommon to sometimes spend a whole work day chasing that governor adjustment around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually that should be five and ten kilowatt generators. What was I thinking?

 

I've tried several different configurations, and am getting closer, but still haven't found that "happy spot" yet. I don't "play" with it every day, I've other things that require attention also. But I'll post again when I'm successful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eb, I know you have some frustrations with this project. You've fought a good fight with it, and taught me and some other folks here a thing or two along the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eb, I know you have some frustrations with this project. You've fought a good fight with it, and taught me and some other folks here a thing or two along the way.

 

Well I'm sure exactly what I may have "taught" you guys, but thanks for the post.   :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the Windolph out yesterday and used it to pull some fence posts from a chain link fence we decided we don't need anymore. I'm still screwing with the governor hunting a little, but I'll keep screwing with it until it runs without surging.

 

However I was a little disappointed in the amount of "grunt" it has. The terminal posts are like a 2 1/4 inch post driven into the ground about 1 1/2 feet, with a half sack of concrete on top. Just wrapping a chain around it and giving a pull caused the tracks to spin. Backing up, putting it in third gear, and taking a "run at it" finally pulled the posts, but I'd figured the tractor was heavy enough, with enough torque to just yank 'em out. I was incorrect. I also yanked out a 3 to 4 inch diameter Holly Tree and I had to pull from one side, then change direction to finally pull it out. That too caused the tracks to spin before it finally yielded to the tractor.

 

I'd of bet money it would have pulled those things out without even burping. I was incorrect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The terminal posts are like a 2 1/4 inch post driven into the ground about 1 1/2 feet, with a half sack of concrete on top

 

I've seen 70 HP farm tractors that won't pull those out sideways in frozen ground.  Chain them to a 3pt hitch and pull strait up and they come out easy.  Better yet pull em strait up with a backhoe or dig beside them get under and pop them up with the bucket.  Dad and I cleaned out a 1/2 mile factory fence one year on rented ground we broke a lot of equipment and chains because we did not have a backhoe at the time.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've seen 70 HP farm tractors that won't pull those out sideways in frozen ground.  Chain them to a 3pt hitch and pull strait up and they come out easy.  Better yet pull em strait up with a backhoe or dig beside them get under and pop them up with the bucket.  Dad and I cleaned out a 1/2 mile factory fence one year on rented ground we broke a lot of equipment and chains because we did not have a backhoe at the time.

 

I believe you are absolutely correct. And, if I had a three point hitch, or a back hoe, rest assured I'd have tried that first.   :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just chain the post at the ground and then run it over a junk steel wheel and then hook the tractor to it, changes the direction of pull from horizontal to vertical.  I use a junk 22.5 semi wheel that does double duty as a fire pit

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not convinced that your throttle linkage is any more original than mine might have been. Mechanically speaking, there is no difference between a rod or a chain for a mechanical connection, other than there is a "little play" in the chain. Your chain and cable does the same thing the rod I made does. Where I'm at now is that I've made another longer rod to be able to work with the tension. It's long enough so that I can shorten it to try to find the right tension, if that is the issue. Now your spring looks like it is original, and that may be an issue for me. Springs are made to exert a specific force in their function and my spring may be either to powerful, or to weak. Yet, that changes too with length and tension. It's something I'll work on in the coming weeks.

 

I just may need to disassemble the governor itself to see if something is amiss in that. We'll see. The weather stinks, I'm a little tired of screwing with it, and am being a slug.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my governor apart on mine to replace an o-ring and its pretty simple. Do you have the manual with the parts diagram? I do if you need some pictures of the governor let me know

.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a factory manual for a different machine, but with the same engine. It details the engine specifically, with the exception on the throttle assembly. The assembly in "the book" is different, but I can surmise what will work. It's just a matter of "playing" with it.

 

And by the way, the choke assembly on my carburetor is on the outside, yours appears to be on the inside. I thought that was some sort of spring at first. Your "photo" was impeccable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that's the choke cable. Ill have to look at my "old" original carburetor to see if it  was on the other side. That carb is a replacement that i found so it is a little different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello guys. Loved reading this thread. I have just revived an old Windolph crawler. I'm not a tractor guy at all (auto tech) but I think this thing is pretty virgin so I can post some good photo's. Like Lawn Ranger Kid's photo of throttle linkage is JUST like mine so eb I think your spring is way too tight. If I can figure out how to get photo's posted I will. This crawler has been sitting for about 20 years on family property. Parked due to bad steer clutches. I was able to get it started after lots of wd40 and carb clean. Runs great, moves forward and backward but steer levers wont release clutches.  They seem froze in engage position. Small springs appear collapsed. in fact left clutch release lever has busted throw-out bearing retainer snap-ring groove off. So looks like I will need to pull at least one track off. I'll get on those photos.     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK got this photo deal more to come
Edited by Jduncan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sunday I brought out the Windolf to try the method of pulling fence posts, albeit using a round of tree instead of a junk wheel rim. As I backed the tractor out of the shop the transmission seemed a little balky. After changing gears I motored off for a short distance, stopped to change gears and found that I only seemed to have first gear. I tried changing speed several times (now about 30 to 40 feet away from the shop door) and the tractor stalled. The transmission seemed frozen. After fiddling with the shifter lever and getting no movement, I pulled the top cover. I could see that just about all the teeth from the majority of gears have been stripped from the gear, to include the new $90.00 cluster gear. The tractor is tarped and sitting in the yard as I haven't figured yet how I'm going to get it back in the shop. Basically the entire drive train has to come back off. Either the engine, or the rear axel has to be pulled as there is no way to remove the transmission without doing so. And the transmission needs another total re-build.

 

I don't know what exactly happened. I think there might have been a little too much play in the shifter mechanism and something didn't get moved exactly where it was supposed to go, so several gears tried to mesh at once. This pretty much destroyed most of the gears in my transmission.

 

I guess I'll have to plan on getting a bunch of friends over here and trying to roll it into my shop, but not today, or even tomorrow. There is nothing around that I can hook a "come-a-long" to winch it in that direction. There is no room to pull it with my truck because of a bank and retaining wall. And truthfully, I'm really "bummed" about the whole thing.

 

In the meantime I've posted it on "Craigslist" for about a grand less than I have in it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello guys. Loved reading this thread. I have just revived an old Windolph crawler. I'm not a tractor guy at all (auto tech) but I think this thing is pretty virgin so I can post some good photo's. Like Lawn Ranger Kid's photo of throttle linkage is JUST like mine so eb I think your spring is way too tight. If I can figure out how to get photo's posted I will. This crawler has been sitting for about 20 years on family property. Parked due to bad steer clutches. I was able to get it started after lots of wd40 and carb clean. Runs great, moves forward and backward but steer levers wont release clutches.  They seem froze in engage position. Small springs appear collapsed. in fact left clutch release lever has busted throw-out bearing retainer snap-ring groove off. So looks like I will need to pull at least one track off. I'll get on those photos.     

 

I would recommend that you pay close attention to the clutch throwout forks. Put them side by side and compare the angle of the forks and the material on the two "bumps" that engage the throwout bearing. The "bumps" can be built up, but if you do so I would recommend re-heat treating them as they seem to wear quickly if you don't. One of mine clutch forks is bent a little, and that changes the location of contact points and the geometry enough that the clutch does not fully disengage. Also pay attention to the two shaft assemblies that work the throwout lever. They tend to twist. I made entirely new assemblies for mine. It only took me three tries to get it right. If you have to remove the clutches I'm pretty sure you have to disassemble them in place as the assembly won't come out of the end of the axle. At least I don't think so. Mine appeared to be larger than the inside of the end of the axle.

 

Oh yes, I'm also in the process of tearing into my Bridgeport milling machine. Last week while I was fabricating a tool to pull "T" posts for fencing it started making a funny noise. I'm hoping it is merely a drive belt, but until I get the head torn down I've not a clue. Today I'm going to try to pull the motor by myself, and that thing is heavy. I've had more equipment problems during this past winter than in my entire life. The Windolf, my 4 Kw generator, my milling machine, two chain saws, and a window started leaking when it's raining with a strong east wind. Sigh.

Edited by eb in oregon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

eb Thank you for the heads up on steer clutch release shafts and forks. We are just getting into it. I will attempt posting another linkage picture. It may be a help you with engine speed issue. Unless you sold it already. :)

Jon 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

eb Thank you for the heads up on steer clutch release shafts and forks.

 

Unless you sold it already. :)

 

Jon 

 

Your very welcome. I hope it helps.

 

And no. Today I got it yarded into the shop. A short truck pull. A lot of "come-a-long" work, and we got it into the shop. My friend Richard is "one in a million."  So now it comes back apart.

 

 

Crap.

 

 

I dislike doing things twice. Especially if it was because of a mistake of mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is down and waiting for transmission repair also. Not quite that bad  (new detent balls and springs for the top cover) Here is a site I found helpful. I built up the shifter with weld and filed it back down. It fits a lot better now. Mine was grabbing two gears at a time if i wasn't careful.  Here are a couple sites I found helpful you might have already found them though.

http://www.speedextractors.com/web/index_files/t92.htm

http://servicemotors.net/cat/Clutch.php

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first one I've see, but didn't pay much attention to as I didn't think at the time that it was an issue. On that I stand corrected.

 

Ah, Service Motors, I bought my first cluster gear from them. I might get another as mine is toast. But then I might try someone a little closer. I've got time to do some checking.

 

Thanks for the links.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got the top cover rebuild kit from service motors and installed it. the new detents and repaired shifter seem to make a world of difference. Ill have to take it for a test drive soon to make sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is that Linkage photo. this machine seems to govern just right although I have no

t really been able to "work" it much as Im fighting the frozen steer clutches.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×