D Series Restoration

[wheeledhorseman 573]

Now that's what I'd call a 'steal' Jeff. Obviously I don't know anything of the history of my D-200 other than it did a heck of a lot of plowing and the like from the three point hitch so I'd imagine that replacement of the disc pads was a fairly regular occurrence. Mine could be later type OEM or maybe 'aftermarket' replacements. Quite possibly the same pads were used on other tractors of a similar size - difficult to tell after all these years but yes, they're bonded and have holes at the back.

The great thing is that you'll have a set of working turning brakes and the parts aren't going to break the bank! :)

[wheeledhorseman 573]

Took the old linings off the metal back plates (or stators as Toro refer to them) and solved the difference between mine and yours.

Mine have been relined before and... the company that did it for the previous owner didn't realise that, unlike automobile discs, the discs on the tractor are very thin indeed.

So, done the way they did it, as the pads wear down it won't take long before they make contact and the brake will cease to function - hence the rounded profile to the original OEM lining.

I decided to reline them in the same way on the basis that I'll mark the disc profile on the pads and use a dremel to remove the unwanted lining after bonding the new linings to the plates.

Everything went well but I thought I'd leave them overnight to ensure that the epoxy was well and truly set before doing the profiling tomorrow.

I'll include the photos when I update my D-200 resto thread at the weekend.

Andy

[Hodge71 662]

Andy I just found out today that theyre called stators. I also got the shock of my life..... 79.50 a pair. This is definitely not the 1973 price for these. I believe I will be relining them myself also. At first I couldnt believe he had them and then Dad told me the price...well lets just say I needed a new diaper after that....WOW!!!!

[Hodge71 662]

Yesterdays progress was making brake rods and trunions so that I can actuate the turning brakes. I used 3/8-24 threads so that there was more threads engaged than 3/8-16, just figured more threads are stronger. Gotta paint the pedal assembly and rods, then its waiting for McMaster Carr to send my new brake friction material so that I can reline my pads. I must say things are coming together.

Short rod

Long rod needed 2 pics to fit it

[wheeledhorseman 573]

Looking good Jeff

I've posted my brake reline photos

Andy

[Hodge71 662]

Heres before and after pics of the latest aquistion. I got a COMPLETE 3 point hitch for my 18 auto. It was very rough as you can see from the pics. It sat outside on JamesBe's latest aquisiton for the last 5 years. I took me 3 and a half hours driving to Jersey and back, $100 in gas in the Wrangler, 5 hours of helping James resurrect a K482 that wasnt run in 5 years and had tins so full of mouse nests and poop that it literally seized the engine fast on the same tractor. We cleaned out the tins, I kept wiggling the flywheel back and forth unitl we got it free and could be spun by the PTO pulley in front while James cleaned out the rodent Hilton out back. Added new oil to the engine and hydro and after a little priming a shot of ether and some gas it fired up and ran for about 20 seconds til we ran out of fuel. What a day it was. After that I came home and got my son for awhile, I then went down my brothers garage and blasted rust off the 3 point for the next 6 hours. I got home at 1 this morning after realizing that the lower arms were so bent it wasnt funny. We used a NOS lift arm my brother had as a template and got the blue wrench out. Heated the hell out of the arms and bent them back to original. The next problem was to get the pivot balls loose on both end of the lower arm and the ends of the top lift arm. It took awhile soaking with tranny fluid and acetone but they move grudgingly now. Today will be spent painting I guess. I think next week will begin reassembly of the tractor and refire of my K482 with pics to show progress....

14.5 hours of work yield results I guess

[JamesBe1 80]

Outstanding work Jeff (as usual).

I am sorry that the lower arm was bent. I wish we had noticed that before we removed it.

I can't wait to see the pics of it painted up and installed on your tractor.

[Operator 7]

Well todays progress as follows. Kinda had a bug up my butt to get some more done. Put the last 4 coats on it yesterday when it was sunny and 75 and did the tins today because of rainy and cool outside. There isnt much paintng left and then reassembly will begin.

I'm looking at the rear hitch picture, those side brackets aren't factory are they? the hitch is welded on to them I see. This isn't going to create problems when you go to mount the three point arms and lift bracket is it? I had to put the factory one on my D-200 and went through the same thing. Just wondering..

[Hodge71 662]

I'm not sure what brackets you are talking about Randy. Its a factory Wheel Horse 3 point that came off of a D. Its 100% original equipment. Why would there be an issue with interference or anything else for that matter? If you can specify a bracket or a picture the bracket is in I will answer your question as best I can. I'm just unsure what you mean.

[wheeledhorseman 573]

I've recently reassembled my 3-point on a D-200 after refurbishment and looking at the photo of your parts inventory it's identical to mine.

When I checked mine against the Toro parts diagram I was pleasantly surprised to fine that I even had the original stabiliser chains.

I'm sure there must be a good reason for Randy's comment - perhaps there are variants - but mine is certainly identical to yours Jeff.

Andy

[Operator 7]

I'm back. All the three point parts are ok, factory stuff. But looking at the rear brackets already on your D the two side ones and a "pull" type hiitch that is welded on to those side braces, those dothree things don't look factory. You'll find out when you go to bolt the three point lift assembly on. Not a big deal but to me things just don't look right.

[Hodge71 662]

I got what youre saying now Randy. I went out and looked and you are 100% correct. Somebody butchered some pull type thing on there. I am definitely going to have to tear that conglomeration off there and replace it with the proper brackets for the install of the 3 point. I have no idea why I thought that thing belonged there. The best part is they destroyed the original brackets to mount the lower arms to the tractor by welding to them and cutting them up in some areas. Thanks for pointing it out bud. Some of the things that were done to this poor tractor make me wonder. But its gonna be great when shes all done!!!!

[Operator 7]

Now I feel better too! My eyes weren't deceiving me. Here's another thinking thing, tractor has rear pto [great thing] but it didn't have three point....... . Is there a lift ram under there for rear? Or two hoses capped off? There should be two rams, one for midlift and one for rear lift. And two valves on dash.

I still think you got a heck of a deal though!!

[JamesBe1 80]

Ok, I'm a little confused. Those parts came off of my tractor. Jeff and I took them off ourselves. It looks the same as the one that is on my other D (at least form memory).

Would one of yous guys try to give a little better explanation as to what it should be like, and how it differs. I kinda feel guilty for selling Jeff bad parts. The poor guy has gone through more than enough with this tractor without me adding to his misery. I'd kinda like to know, you know?

James

[Trouty56 565]

James, check out the rearend of the tractor in this pic....not the typical stock drawbar setup......a very good observation by Randy. The 3 pt parts are not the issue. They look great. You did Jeff good!!!

Nice job so far Jeff. You are really tearing into this thing full bore.

[JamesBe1 80]

Ahhhh. Now I see. Thanx Bob.

You know, I kinda like the hitch setup on Jeff's tractor. Shame that it has to go.

j

[Hodge71 662]

James,

Remember I said to you about you had a factory hitch in the standard place through the case on your tractor. I said mine didnt and we talked about the pins seizing in the transmission. You can see in the pic that Bob brought over from 2 pages earlier there are 2 pieces of what look like "C" channel on the sides of the rear of the tractor with a large tongue sticking out with a hole in it. Those are actuallly not "C" channel. The front half is actually a factory 3 point bracket that normally holds the lower lift arms, the rear is a piece old 1 1/2" angle that some person thought was good idea to weld to the factory 3 point parts. I guess it caused issues in some areas or maybe they had something else hung off it too but for some reason they thought it was a great idea to cut pieces out of that factory bracket also on both sides with a torch. UGH....At least I got those parts from you.....

whoops looks like you snuck in this morning...lol...good morning bud.....and if you want this tongue thingy.....ITS YOURS!!!!!

Randy,

If you look closely at the pic above you will see the new rear cylinder mounted on the inside right of the tractor. I have already changed out the control valve from the log splitter valve that was in there when I got it, to the 2 valve set up that belongs there to control both mid and rear lifts. I even scored a set of factory handles off ebay for $20 for the pair. So lift wise I should be hooked up as soon as I get the new lower dash panel. The handle for the logsplitter valve was much wider that the factory valve handles so they carved the dash up with a grinder and cutoff wheel till they could fit it in. SO from my above explanation to James, you can see this tractor did have a factory 3 point. Its a shame at some point they thought it was a good idea to cut and carve it up with a blue wrench and then weld it in others. That was a vey expensive modification on their part. I've seen those brackets go for $100 on ebay!!!!

[Operator 7]

James did good on the three point parts , all is there. Jeff you are doing good, I didn't want to you scratching your head on trying to get the three point in there.

Jeff I see the ram! All painted and ready.

Lookin good!

[JamesBe1 80]

Thanx Jeff. I finally got it after looking at the pic. Shame what they did to it. Oh well. I'm glad I could help with the hitch. Like I said, you got the better of the two that I had. One of these days I may need one, but I'll come to that bridge when I need to.

BTW, I snagged two -.010 piston rods off of ebay for $56 Amazing, now I can proceed with the rebuild of my other engine. The rods normally go for over $100 apiece. Looks like karma kicked in a little bit. Don't know what I did to deserve it, but it sure made life a little easier. Now all I gotta get is the pistons and a gasket set.

[Hodge71 662]

Progress for the last couple of days. I have most of the 3 point painted. I just wish I could have done something with all the pitting in the steel. You can see in a few of the pics thats its pretty bad evrn after blasting. At least theres no rust left after the blasting so it shouldnt get worse.

[Trouty56 565]

I like the use of the wire coat hangers.....don't fret with the pitting.....something has to give it's age away....kind of like wrinkles on a person...lol

[JamesBe1 80]

I like the use of the wire coat hangers.....don't fret with the pitting.....something has to give it's age away....kind of like wrinkles on a person...lol

Lol. I do the coathanger thing too. Been doing it for years.

[wheeledhorseman 573]

There always have to be some compromises Jeff, same on my project. If you're looking for a 'concourse' finish then obviously it can be done but it's pretty time consuming. This is the business end of a tractor - the paint's going to get chipped and scratched when the hitch gets used - all part of being a tractor.

Better that all the brown rust crystals are gone - there's plenty of folk about who don't realise that there's water locked up in those crystals, enough for the rusting process to continue for a while even when sealed under fresh paintwork.

Andy

[Hodge71 662]

Heres my take on factory brake pads. I made a template of the originals and then cut the new lining material to match. Used JB Weld to bond them to the backing plates. All thats left is to surface them to the proper thinckness and then a coat of paint on the backing plates.

[otrelwood 32]

have you put the pto on your engine yet?if so did the pulley for the rear pto line up ? mine sure wont, the pulley on the bottom is in the middle of the two grooves on the engine pulley .any ideas?