JamesBe1 80 #151 Posted March 13, 2012 A lot of leaking from the tranny though...... Yeah, I noticed that too. I wonder if it would be just a matter of replacing the gasket. Probably somebody had it open at one time or another and reused the old gasket. However the tires are beautiful on the rear....plus a blade....there's the 350 almost.... The front tires don't look too bad either. All in all, it's probably worth the money if you don't have to travel too far for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Prater 75 #152 Posted March 14, 2012 If you guys go in on that D180, I could use the rear PTO if you guys already have one. I could also use that three point bar hanging from the center. I think its what i need for my tiller. I would be interested in sharing some costs... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #153 Posted March 14, 2012 If you guys go in on that D180, I could use the rear PTO if you guys already have one. I could also use that three point bar hanging from the center. I think its what i need for my tiller. I would be interested in sharing some costs... I was wondering about that bar also. A couple of years ago I picked up a tiller to restore. It's in parts at the moment, but I seem to recall a turnbuckle that I presumed was for the same purpose as the bar. I might be wrong on that account. But, did you think about getting a turnbuckly from TCS (is similar place)? Seems like it would be the perfect piece to use there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Prater 75 #154 Posted March 15, 2012 I have a cat 0 top link, but it would be nice to have an original for displaying. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #155 Posted March 15, 2012 Steve, heres the pics of that side cover for your 482. Let me know. :text-offtopic: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #156 Posted March 16, 2012 Well todays progress as follows. Kinda had a bug up my butt to get some more done. Put the last 4 coats on it yesterday when it was sunny and 75 and did the tins today because of rainy and cool outside. There isnt much paintng left and then reassembly will begin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #157 Posted March 16, 2012 Jeff, Very impressive! How many cans of paint did you go through? I see that you have a broken exhaust port like mine, but not where near as damaged. Did you use high temp paint on the cylinders? j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #158 Posted March 16, 2012 Four and a half cans total James. Its not high temp paint oin the cylinders, I just wanted to stave off a little off the rust. I know it wont last but its better than the condition they were in. After glass beading alot of the parts I can see this tractor clearly spent alot of its life outside in the weather, unprotected. I think thats why it was repainted so many times. Four times to be exact, the original red powder coat was faded to pink, then painted dark red, then black and then a lighter red again. Now its the right color red, at least to me.... My exhaust port is fine. I fit a J-bolt and it holds well. I have the exhaust off for painting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #159 Posted March 16, 2012 Four and a half cans total James. Its not high temp paint oin the cylinders, I just wanted to stave off a little off the rust. I know it wont last but its better than the condition they were in. After glass beading alot of the parts I can see this tractor clearly spent alot of its life outside in the weather, unprotected. I think thats why it was repainted so many times. Four times to be exact, the original red powder coat was faded to pink, then painted dark red, then black and then a lighter red again. Now its the right color red, at least to me.... My exhaust port is fine. I fit a J-bolt and it holds well. I have the exhaust off for painting Thanx Jeff. Hey, I'd like a picture of how you fit the jbolt to it. I am pondering doing the same with mine. Not sure yet, but thinking about it. When you put it back together, please post a pic of how it looks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #160 Posted March 18, 2012 Jeff, did you bid on that tractor on ebay? Just curious, cause if it's you, I won't bid against you if you want it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #161 Posted March 18, 2012 Its not me Brother. I dont have the 375. I need that tractor and so many things from it but its just not feasible for me right now. I need a 60" mower from a 520 to adapt onto the 18 auto. Ugh this whole no job thing blows!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #162 Posted March 18, 2012 I got some things in the mail yesterday, new valve and handles instead if the logsplitter valve that was on it and a used 1973 model book. Its not perfect on the covers but inside its close. Plus it was only $13 instead of the $64 that the other one on ebay is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #163 Posted March 18, 2012 awesome thread here jeff. really enjoying the hands on stuff............. that gasket making skill is a good one to have. we use it at work to make masking out of magnetic sheeting for intricate parts that have machined areas that dont need powdercoat. works well. sometimes you can just use the hammer to make an imprint on the material for a guide and cut it with a blade or scissors too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #164 Posted March 18, 2012 Thanks Martin, That means alot coming from you. I look at youre restorations as one of the marks I judge myself by. Again, thank you for the compliment.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #165 Posted March 18, 2012 Hodge I gotta ask What did you do with the blue tub that had the turning brakes and rods, one pedal (other ones on the tractor), a spare hyd valve. and ram ? We talked about replacements for the pads that day. Just curious Duane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,130 #166 Posted March 18, 2012 Thanks Martin, That means alot coming from you. I look at youre restorations as one of the marks I judge myself by. Again, thank you for the compliment.... well my stuff definitely looks better in the pics than in person, ive got a magic camera, just sayin................. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #167 Posted March 18, 2012 Duane, In regard to the blue box that you told me had EVERYTHING I would need for turning brakes and MOST of a 3 point hitch....The valve you speak of was broken, I would assume thats why it was changed out to the type on there when I got the tractor from you. The 3 point was taken off and so there was no need for a dual valve. The cylinder was ok and is on the tractor as the mid hitch lift cylider now. The lift cylinder for the mid leaked like a seive every time I raised or lowered the plow. It would have cost me $120 to have it cut apart, rebuilt and rewelded by a hydraulic company. The turning brakes only had the calipers and a foot pedal, All the mounting brackets to mount them to the rear axles, rods and hardware were not there. Once I got a set of installation instructions from someone on here, I realized how much wasn't there. Thats why I'm still trying to find parts. Some parts I can make myself but theres alot not here. Replacement pads from a Cub Cadet will do nothing for me with what you gave me.The same as the with 3 point. It had the top rock shaft and thats it, there were no turnbuckles, lift arms, top link or hardware to be found. Thats why I'm trying to find a 3point also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
otrelwood 32 #168 Posted March 19, 2012 i ve got some extra d 180 parts im fixing on getting rid of soon .i bought one much the same as you did "it just needs an axle seal" turns out the rear end is welded together but no big deal i went to my favorite WH vender and got replacement parts ,most of a roller so naturally im taking the best parts for me then getting rid of the rest . i also have a 60" mower deck that i'm taking to mentone or wherever i go until i get rid of it .my parts tractor doesnt have any 3 point stuff on it except the 2 vertical bars that the arms hook to .anyway your remodel looks great i'm putting mine together in the rough to see if i want to keep it or not i've got a 50" tiller , a back blade ,mower deck and 56" plow to see how they work before a complete paint restore, and i've seen Martins 1054 in person it not the camera that makes it look good it is the craftmanship Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #169 Posted March 20, 2012 More progress today. I ripped the calipers for the turning brakes apart sandblasted them and got 1 side painted. I used the other side to mock up linkage dimensions. I took a quick trip over Dads and made 2 trunions on the lathe and drill press. I actually think I'm going to do 2 more trunnions. That way I dont have to worry about bending rods. I can make the rods the length I need and then put 1 side together with red loctite or maybe a jam nut setup.. Tryin to locate many parts to complete these. I talked to a guy at Ringtown Farm Equipment (he used to be a Wheel Horse dealer) and hes gonna check for some springs and other things I need. Apparently he has quite the stash of NOS parts but its not inventoried and such so he looks. quite a bit. I can source the 3/8-16 x 3 1/2 bolts locally and I'll be making the bottom of the axle brackets from 3/8"x 1" flat stock. I also talked to 2 Cub Cadet Dealer about the brake pads and they have no Idea what I'm talking about. I stopped at 1 and actually brought them with me..... he said "they aint cub parts they're red......." I said, yeah I know, theyre Wheel Horse parts but I was told cub brake pads will work.... His answer, well without a cub part number I cant help ya partner.... Gee thanks....So anybody know a part number for these things on the yellow side of things? I can find anyhting on the ole net about cub turning brakes so I need help...Please....... I also started trying to recondition my dash pad. Decades sitting outside havent been kind but its all in 1 piece at least. I'm not sure if you can tell for the pic I did 1 side with 303 and the other side is original. All I have to do now is get some white paint and a steady hand to go over all the raised areas and make it purdy.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #170 Posted March 20, 2012 Wow, when you get motivated, you really get things done! More power to ya!! I've been fiddling with my tiller last couple of days. Doncha just hate it when you walk across the yard and find a piece of a machine laying there? That's what I have been trying to figure out all day. It's taken me most of the day to find the sn for my old troybilt and to get a manual off of the net. Still, I can't figure out where this part goes. Sooner or later. It's one of those things that will probably keep me awake. Kinda curious about your sandblaster. That's something I'd love to get soon (although money is tight). What do you use? What do you like about it? What don't you like? Any recommendations? I had to laugh out loud about your cub dealer dealings. Seems a lot of places are like that. Some people just don't want to think (too much fluoride I guess). He probably didn't want to do anything more than punch numbers into a computer and let it do the thinking for him. My local JD place is like that. He even argued with me that the part I bought from him the year before didn't exist (because the computer didn't tell him that it existed). Ahhhhhh! The dash came out great. What the heck is 303? I'm feeling stupid for asking, but if it works that well, I may follow suit (learn from the greats is my approach). James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 573 #171 Posted March 21, 2012 I'll photo my disk pads tomorrow and give you the sizes - pretty easy to make once you have the dimensions. I'm about to reline the pads as soon as the lining material arrives. I've sourced the material here in the UK but I can give you the McMaster-Carr reference if you want it. (I'm restoring a 'D' at present - see Euro section) Andy p.s. there's no springs - the rods act directly onto the caliper lever. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #172 Posted March 21, 2012 James, The blast cabinet I use is from Buchanan tools. Its called the Barrel Blaster. Its at my Dads. we've had it for about 12 years now and has performed flawlessly. Priced economically and you can fit a 15" wheel in it so it holds pretty big stuff. We use a 50/50 mix of medium glass beads( potters balotini) and aluminum oxide. Its cuts enough to get throught the rust but wont blow through thin metal. I restore antique railroad lanterns and it wont damage the brass while cleaning steel that it was brazed to. As far as the 303, it's a space age protectant along the lines of armor all. I have been using it on my boat for about 10 years now. Its a teal green and white 1996 Chaparral. Teal isnt a natural color pigment and chalks out very easily, just like red. It sits in the sun from May to October up Lake Wallenpaupack and the gel coat is still perfect. It looks better than some 2010s. Heres a link http://www.303products.com/ Andy, Thank you for the info about relining my pads. I look forward to pics. I do have a set of worn out ones ( as in no lining left. Someone ran metal to metal) I never even thought about relining them myself. I also must tell you there are springs. On the parts breakdown for the turning brakes its #38, the part# is 103125. They are return springs so that the pedal returns to the up position and there isn't any drag on the calipers and discs. Its installed on the innermost hole on the caliper actuator and goes to the small silver mounting bracket by your frame. I have been following your thread in Euro section. I hope my machine turns out half as nice as yours. I'm jealous.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 573 #173 Posted March 21, 2012 :hide: It's just me being dumb about the springs Jeff, it was the early hours here and I'd forgotten that you have the parts diagram. Having forgotten that, and as you were talking about making the rods up, just thought I'd mention that, unlike many rod operated bakes, the force is applied directly to the caliper lever and not via a strong compression spring. I do have the original return springs on mine - if you need the vitals I'll measure one up as it will almost certainly be a standard size spring available from stockists. Also having just ressembled the rod system on mine, the inner rod which connects the pedal to the cross shaft only just clears the various obstacles in its way (step supports etc) so it would be a good idea to have everything in place when designing yours as it will be a bit different and you may need a couple of slight off-sets to clear everything. I'll photograph the pads later on today but as you have the original metal plates you really only need the details of the linings which I have written down from ordering some. Each 'pad' is 1.5" x 4" x 3/16ths thick. The lining material has brass wire woven into it - McMaster-Carr describe it as 'High Strength' and I can make out the same honeycomb like patterning that they show in their illustration on mine where the pad hasn't been worn away. The original lining would have been hot bonded to the metal but I'm going to use two pack epoxy (called 'Araldite' here) and clamp each one up in a vice till the adhesive sets. Unlike automobile disc brakes, these aren't exactly likely to reach extreme temperatures so I'm thinking epoxy will do a perfectly adequate job. I have been following your thread in Euro section. I hope my machine turns out half as nice as yours. I'm jealous.... Thank's for the compilment - your's looks pretty good to me too. I'm not aiming for show standard as the tractor will be put to work when I finish it, just a standard that I'm happy with. I sometimes think that cameras tend to be kind in terms of the blemishes they hide in photos. Anyway, I'll add measuring a return spring to my list for later in the day and get back to you on that. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 573 #174 Posted March 21, 2012 The linings arrived in the post today so here's the photo and some details. If you click the image to enlarge you'll see that the new linings have that same hex pattern to the woven wire as the originals so it appears that we have the same lining materials across the pond. The new ones are curled where they have been cut off a roll but I was told they soften on warming and can be flattened and will then hold that shape once cold. I've included one of the brake return springs having cleaned the rust off. As a guide I measured the dimensions as follows: Wire diameter 0.08 inch (2mm) Coil diameter (outside) 0.73 inch so I gues it was nominally 3/4" before rusting. The spring consists of ten complete coils plus one at each end formed into the hook. Overall length taken with caliper outside the hooks 2.12 inch though the hooks are probably distorted. It doesn't seem to match either a standard metric or imperial extension spring but I'm sure you'll find something pretty close at a spring stockist. Hope this is helpful. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 663 #175 Posted March 22, 2012 Andy, You're not going to believe this, but I found the springs at the local Wheel Horse dealer. He called my Dad today when he found them. I just about died when I heard the price.......$3.63 for the pair ...WITH THE TAX!!!!! I think hes using a 1973 price guide.....Hes diggin for the pads tomorrow. I must say my pads are alot different than yours. My lining is round and follows the contour of the metal backing, not square like yours. Mine are also Wheel Horse red, not black. Mine also don't have the hex pattern and are a bonded lining with 2 holes throught the backing plate....hmmm. I wonder if mine are original equipment and yours are factory replacements. I will post pics of mine tomorrow and we can compare. Thanks for the very detailed pics and descriptions Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
