Hodge71 662 #101 Posted February 11, 2012 Heres what the remote oil filter hard plumbing looks like. I got it finished and snow came again, so into the basement to weld my inner fender cracks and do some priming and painting. The oil filter is going to be quite the addition once complete. From where its at now to the end will be done in 3/8" rubber hose, once I get the necessary parts to finish it. Just trying to find a location with enough clearance to put a spin on filter vertically. That way I can prefill with oil prior to installation so there isnt a dry start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #102 Posted February 11, 2012 Outstanding work Jeff! How about mounting the filter somewhere under the frame. I got too wrapped up in other activities today to even go near my tractor. Just as well, it's pretty cold out today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #103 Posted February 14, 2012 Latest progress for the machine..... Inner fenders Does anybody know what the texture was for the black footrest padding and where I can get pieces? Also looking for the gasket for the rear hydro motor to transaxle. Its NLA from Toro. I thought mine was ok but its ripped and generally sad. I'm not wasting my time putting it on and then having problems down the road. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #104 Posted February 14, 2012 Is the what you are looking for: http://www.classicki...b22cac2995bc273 Also, if the old gasket is in close enough shape, you can get some gasket material from any autoparts store and make your own. It's easy enough to do with a steady hand and an exacto knife. Getting perfectly circular holes can be a bit tricky unless you have something to punch a clean hole. I use a set of cork borers. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #105 Posted February 14, 2012 Those footrests look like the right ones for the D series James, but not for the 18 auto. From what I'm told the 73 tractors had more of a "pebble grain" to them. If worse comes to worse I guess the ones from Eldon will have to do, they arent cheap, I must say. The gasket is pretty much destroyed so I'm going to have to come up with a different plan I guess. I do have a set of gasket punches for the holes but everything else is the problem. I'm also looking for a picture of the right side tin on a 482/532 for the proper placement of the Kohler and the Wheel Horse stickers that go there. In my rush originally I forgot to take pics of that area for proper location. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMMANDO6 20 #106 Posted February 14, 2012 I'm not sure if anyone already asked this or you have said, but are you going to work this one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #107 Posted February 14, 2012 Commando, Back in one of the posts I did mention it is definitely going to be a working tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #108 Posted February 14, 2012 Update on todays progress. I'm not sure if you guys remember the condition of the right side(From the drivers seat) wheel on my tractor. It was absolutely destroyed. Apparently the outer wheel bearing went bad at some point and some butcher beat the living snot out of the area and mushroomed it over. One more reason some people shouldnt be allowed to have tools. Anyhow the bearing was recessed so far inside that it had 5 washers to hold it on, with the final one being a 2" fender washer, absolutely ridiculous....anyhoo, today Dad and I fixed it the right way. We chucked the wheel into the lathe and machined the mushroomed area off. We then welded a small piece of pipe onto the stub that was left and welded that into place. After doing tha,t we took a measurement off the good wheel and machined the pipe down to the correct length and installed new bearings. I couldnt believe that when we pullled the old bearings out we found part of the old bearing race left behind inside and some kind of spacers/washers, why they were in there, who freaking knows. Anyhow heres the pic of the finished product with new bearings installed. It even fits the grease cap unlike the old mess. Also when I came home from Dads, Mr UPS guy left my LED lights on the porch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #109 Posted February 14, 2012 oops forgot the pics.... Repaired wheel red light for rear of fender amber light for front of fender Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #110 Posted February 15, 2012 Wow, those lights are really bright. Very nice Jeff. Should make for an interesting effect at night. I like what you did with the wheel. Too bad you didn't take some before pictures. Doncha just hate it when you have to do corrective surgery to correct someone else's mistakes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hydro 130 #111 Posted February 15, 2012 Let us know when you turn on those lights. I will look out to see whether I can see them. :laughing-rofl: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #112 Posted February 15, 2012 I've given up on the steering wheel guys. I got out the big guns today. I've been soaking this thing daily for the last 2 weeks minimum woth 50/50 acetone/tranny fluid. I got out the 12 ton hydraulic 3 jaw puller and the biggest bearing seperator that I have. I loaded it up with 24,000 pounds of force and all that happened was........ NOTHING!!!! It didnt even budge. I guess I will have to mask off the wheel and do the best I can painting the dash in place on the tractor...... I cant believ it wont come off. I guess the damage done before me was too much to overcome, even with 12 tons of pullin power. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMMANDO6 20 #113 Posted February 15, 2012 24,000 pounds of force and all that happened was........ NOTHING!!!! It didnt even budge. :eek: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #114 Posted February 16, 2012 Something tells me that it is a good thing that it didn't decide to break free with 24Klbs of force on it. It would probably burned up on re-entry anyhow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hydro 130 #115 Posted February 18, 2012 ....so far that's the only thing that's beaten you! I know you will make this tractor work for you :handgestures-thumbup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dadstractor1 5 #116 Posted February 25, 2012 did you have a space heater runing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #117 Posted February 25, 2012 did you have a space heater runing What exactly are you asking about? Not sure how having a space heater on would make the steering wheel come off easier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #118 Posted February 27, 2012 Jeff, this might have the missing piece of tin for the left hand cylinder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kohler-K482-K532-K582-engine-sheet-metal-shroud-tin-/120865014160?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c241dc190 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #119 Posted February 29, 2012 I didnt score that one James but I did score the black set by the same guy. It was in much better shape than the yellow set and its 100% complete. I saw your pics too James. My block cracked in the same area but its much much better than you have All I lost was a small part of the ear. My whole mounting area is still perfect. I'm gonna just hook a J bolt under the block in the back and use that to hold the rear of the exhaust manifold. Looks like yours is too far gone for that. I'm looking at another 18 auto with blown hydro pump/hydro mototr but the K482 is good. He bought the tractor to put the engine in a Power King but now just wants to get rid of all of his junk. I just want it for the 3 point hitch. At least I know what I'm getting with this tractor, I already know its busted. The guy has been very truthful with me from the beginning. He just wants way too much for this roach. Hes asking $850 for a tractor I'd be comfortable at $300 for. Its been sitting outside for 3 years and looks it by the pink paint. Once my unemployment gets in my bank I can finally get my new hydro pump from Kelly. I'll keep ya in the loop amigo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #120 Posted February 29, 2012 Heres the progress today. Ive taken a break lately. It was starting to get to me how much I've worked on it and still wasnt running. I guess I got depressed a bit with the lack of funds to fix more. Got the exhaust done today except for the stack and flapper. I didnt want to put them on without having my support bracket figured out. The extra stress isn't needed at this point.I just gotta find a small muffler clamp for the top pipe from the muffler and make my new exhaust gaskets. The i'll be painting the whole thing with hi temp black paint and curing it. Hopefully this will all be done by the end of March..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #121 Posted February 29, 2012 I didnt score that one James but I did score the black set by the same guy. It was in much better shape than the yellow set and its 100% complete. I saw your pics too James. My block cracked in the same area but its much much better than you have All I lost was a small part of the ear. My whole mounting area is still perfect. I'm gonna just hook a J bolt under the block in the back and use that to hold the rear of the exhaust manifold. Looks like yours is too far gone for that. I'm looking at another 18 auto with blown hydro pump/hydro mototr but the K482 is good. He bought the tractor to put the engine in a Power King but now just wants to get rid of all of his junk. I just want it for the 3 point hitch. At least I know what I'm getting with this tractor, I already know its busted. The guy has been very truthful with me from the beginning. He just wants way too much for this roach. Hes asking $850 for a tractor I'd be comfortable at $300 for. Its been sitting outside for 3 years and looks it by the pink paint. Once my unemployment gets in my bank I can finally get my new hydro motor from Kelly. I'll keep ya in the loop amigo. I'm sorry to hear that yours broke too. Did you by any chance get both the other exhaust flange off without any problem? If so, I'd like to know how you did it. I'm always up for learning something new. I hope your new hydro turns out nicely. Careful reinstalling it. It's pretty easy to knock the orings out of place while setting it in. It makes it a whole lot easier if you can get the motor out of the way. I'd be indebted if we can work out a reasonable deal for the K482. That would make a great excuse for me to drive out your way and check out your tractor. Let me know when something develops, I'll be ready. I know what a pain the unemployment can be. NJ has been screwing me around for it for the last couple of months. Haven't seen a nickel from them in a while. Finally getting it worked out, but the wheel of bureaucracy turn slowly. The new exhaust looks pretty interesting. I hope it runs quite. j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #122 Posted February 29, 2012 James what I did was twist the heads right off the bolts, pull the manifolds off, ground the remaining bolt flush with the manifold top. I then centerpunhed and drilled the bolts out of the block and retapped with 5/16-18 tap. I installed a stud and red locktighted it in on the back of the right cylinder and used grade 10 socket head cap screws to hold the fronts. Grade 10 bolts arent going to break like the originals. To get the nipples out of the manifold, I put the nipple end in a big railroad vice, heated the manifold cherry red with my acetylene torch and twisted it right out with a pipe wrench. I'm not sure any of this will help you with the damage done to yours. There is a 482 block on fleabay if you chose to go that route. Its $75 plus shipping I beleieve. I havent heard from the guy with the other 18 auto yet, but I see he has it listed on fleabay too for $850. Maybe thats the answer he didnt have the stones to give me when I told him what the tractor is actually worth. Its amazing how people always think what they have is worth a whole lot more than it is. I learned that firsthand with this thing... but I was stupid and paid it...next time not so stupid....another amazing thing is how life is a great teacher, unfortunately it kills all its students.... The exhaust is going to be fine. Its a Gravely muffler from a 16HP Kohler. I liked it because of the 90 degree inlet on the side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesBe1 80 #123 Posted February 29, 2012 Thanx Jeff. What you said is a lot of help. Couple of dumb questions for ya though. What was your rationale for putting a stud in the back instead of bolts? Wouldn't you use one method or the other for both the front and rear? I know there is a scrap of information missing here that will make it all make sense. Until you mentioned it, I hadn't considered putting studs in and locktiting them. The benefit if they ever need to be removed is obvious. Also, I saw the block on ebay. I offered them $45 for it and they accepted. My preference would be to fix the original motor (I have a preference to keep things original) and keep the block as a backup in case I can't. Besides, there is no telling what kinda shape the ebay block is in. I'm not entirely sure what needs to be checked and measured besides the cylinders and the valve guides. Let me know if you know of whatelse needs checking. Paul mentioned using a jbolt to secure a broken flange on his D200. I find the approach pretty appealing providing I can get the front bolt out. I don't see this part of the engine getting to much physical stress, just lots of heat. I jbolt might be just the thing. I also saw the 18 auto on ebay. I even considered bidding on it, but self-control got the better of me (don't ya just hate when that happens). Needless to say, I won't be bidding on it. Yeah, life is a great teacher, but the greatest lessons come from making the greatest mistakes. By that account, I should be a genius, but I guess I am still working on the learning part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #124 Posted February 29, 2012 James, I used a stud because I got to a point when drilling the rear bolt out that the drill wouldnt go any farther, after tapping it, I only had about 4-5 threads fully engaged. I felt it would be better to install a stud bottomed out in the hole with red loctite and use a nut, that way the stud wont get over tightened and strip the threads out of the block like a bolt might. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #125 Posted February 29, 2012 Hey that exhaust looks good Hodge71........ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
