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I see what you mean about the fenders looking like swiss cheese from all the holes drilled in it. At least you won't have any trouble find matching holes to attach your new lights to.

Just curious, where do you do your painting this time of year?

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James,

I do all my painting in my basement during this time of year. I have 2 windows down there and a bilco door. I have a fan that fits in very nicely in 1 window, and then I open the window across the basement for cross ventilation. It works very well. Its not perfect, but being that I'm alone and my son doesnt mind the occasional very faint paint fumes that come around, it works for me. If I had a wife/girlfriend I'm not sure I could get away with it...lol On the warmer days I do shoot it outside and then put it downstairs for drying. That has worked pretty ok but it need to be warm for proper curing. My basement is about 65-70 degrees.

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James,

I do all my painting in my basement during this time of year. I have 2 windows down there and a bilco door. I have a fan that fits in very nicely, and then I open the window acroos the basement for cross ventilation. itn works very well. Its not perfect, but being that I'm alone and my son doesnt mind the occasional very faint paint fumes that come around it works for me. If I had a wife/girlfriend I'm not sure I could get away with it...lol On the warmer days I do shoot it outside and then put it downstairs for drying. That has worked pretty ok but it need to be warm for proper curing. My basement is about 65-70 degrees.

Hahaha. My wife complains about the paint fumes when I paint in the basement. I try to do it when she's not home. I don't have enough ventilation in my basement, and paint likes to float around a stick to things it shouldn't. I was thinking of hanging some sheets of plastic to make a small paint booth. I have some zip poles that should work nicely to hold up plastic drop cloth.

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Thats all you need to do James, keep the dust in 1 area. Theres lotsa guys on here that do it in their garage. I remember someone last fall posting pics and drawings of how to do it with tarps and a fan. I got a bit more done. I did some more painting today and got my tractor steam cleaned finally. Friday is supposed to be warm (around 50) here so I think Its going to get painted then. Seats all fifnished too. Just gotta get the cushions to an upholsterer. I'm kinda stuck because I havent gotten any unemployment checks yet and cash is low. Once I get my check I have to get my hydro pumps from Kelly, rebuild one, and put the ol' girl back together.

post-1339-0-61614500-1328643926_thumb.jppost-1339-0-21397200-1328643945_thumb.jp

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Hodge, the seat came out great. I see the valspar is working nicely. Any more orange peel?

I spent the morning cleaning and hanging plastic drop cloth in a 4 by 6 area in my basement. Of course along the way I had to fix the staple gun twice, replace an outlet and several other things just to get a nice little area to paint in. At least it's done now, and I can use it all winter long. I also got a can of berrymans last night, and got the carb off this afternoon, and it is soaking. The float bowl looked pretty cruddy, and the main jet is slightly bent (like some people I know). I'll probably order a carb rebuild kit tonite. Right now, I am going to see if the pep boys has the pressure gage and copper tubing kit (sold separately of course). I will also see if they have a leak down tester before I head over there. Might as well pick on up.

later,

James

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Youre making progress now bud. I took some of the tins to a friend who paints for a living. He said its perfectly normal and he wouldnt even call it orange peel. Its not that bad. If I was using a pro HVLP gun and base coat/clear coat it would be dissapointing but with spray bombs he said it was pretty impressive. SO I will just color sand with some 1000 grit and 1500 grit and then buff the hood and be happy with it. Its a worker not a trailer queen so if its a 5 or 10 footer I'll be happy. The crap that came out of my carb was unbelievable. It had some much crap and grit in the bowl it wasnt funny. I wish I would have taken pics for all to see how bad this thing was. There were pics on here somewhere of the chocolate milk from the gas tank and fuel filter. I found where a oil pressure guage would go on mine and where the oil filter would go if I had 1. I hope I can find the mounting flange and hardware for the oil filter assembly on a K482 somewhere. I'd like to add it while my machine is in pieces and all the covers are off the motor.

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Youre making progress now bud. I took some of the tins to a friend who paints for a living. He said its perfectly normal and he wouldnt even call it orange peel. Its not that bad. If I was using a pro HVLP gun and base coat/clear coat it would be dissapointing but with spray bombs he said it was pretty impressive. SO I will just color sand with some 1000 grit and 1500 grit and then buff the hood and be happy with it. Its a worker not a trailer queen so if its a 5 or 10 footer I'll be happy. The crap that came out of my carb was unbelievable. It had some much crap and grit in the bowl it wasnt funny. I wish I would have taken pics for all to see how bad this thing was. There were pics on here somewhere of the chocolate milk from the gas tank and fuel filter. I found where a oil pressure guage would go on mine and where the oil filter would go if I had 1. I hope I can find the mounting flange and hardware for the oil filter assembly on a K482 somewhere. I'd like to add it while my machine is in pieces and all the covers are off the motor.

Yeah, I shoulda took pictures, I actually thought about it, but my hands were covered in grime, and I didn't want to stop and clean up and get the camera.

I tried to get the screw out of the bottom of the carb that the needle sits in (is that the main jet, I forget). It is stuck in there. I am worried about damaging it. I think I'll soak it with PB blaster tomorrow. I should pick up some acetone and transmission fluid and try that.

The pressure gage is a great idea. If only for the piece of mind to know how it's running. I have been thinking about adding a remote oil filter to mine. Not sure yet how to plumb it in. Let me know how you decide to do yours.

BTW, what exactly is the story with oil filters. The manual says that there should be one, but I don't see any on mine. You say that you don't have one either? Was that a special downgrade for wheelhorse or something?

Not sure if it is of any help to you, but I scanned in my D series parts manual. I know that you have to pay toro to get them. If you want a copy, let me know.

I have my grille shroud in my derusting tank. It should take a few days to get all the rust and paint off. The paint is the hardest part. I just let it soak while running current through it. Eventually, it will be back down to bare metal.

James

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Thanks Jake, it did come out pretty good. James, I'm researching a remote filter right now.I checked with my Toro guy and he told me the original engine mounted systemis NLA. But he did tell me they put the K482 in JD tractors. He can get one for $386 from the green and yellow parts side. To me thats way too much so I'm checking on something similar to what Duke did with his 520. I'll let ya'll know what I come up with. Not sure where I could mount it though.

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Hodge, you might want to get the part numbers for the JD remote filter setup, and keep your eyes open in ebay or other places. Also, let me know what the numbers are, and I will keep an eye open for the both of us.

Looking through my manual last night, I did see where they plumbed the filter into the engine. But like you say, mounting the filter is the tough part.

I'm not familiar with Duke's 520. Are there any pics around here that you can point to?

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Installation of The Duke's 520 oil filter relocation kit is found here on pg.6 of this thread.

http://www.wheelhors...d/page__st__125

Thanx, Craig.

Awesome! Very much what I was thinking about doing to mine. The only minor issue is mounting the filter. I'll figure it out when I get that far. Maybe by then Hodge will have already found a good location.

James

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post-1339-0-08555600-1328725985_thumb.jppost-1339-0-96782100-1328726001_thumb.jp

This is what I found under my filter mount block off plate. James, The JD isnt a remote kit, it supposedly mounts to this area somehow. THe 2 holes on the right side hold the blocking plate on. The 2 on the left are the holes I need to plumb my lines to. They appear to be 1/4 NPT. This is as far as I got because the snow came. According to Kohler the top hole is supply (dirty oil) to the filter, the bottom is return (filtered oil) to the engine. I have sourced the remote filter housing, its about 25 bucks for one that has the mounting foot on it. I will research the fittings and lines to make it all work. I have found a possible location but it might depend on the filter size. According to the instructions it fits a Fram PH-8a. This is a pretty big filter, should hold damn near a quart of oil. Its the same as I have on the 1965 Plymouth Satellite with a 426. I gotta see if it will also fit the PH-16 which if I remember correctly is the small block filter for MoPar. I'm 99% sure its the same base and thread, just a shorter filter housing.

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I see the same setup on mine, although I haven't taken the blocking plate off. If you use the JD setup, at least you won't have to cut a hole in the tin and fabricate a cover like Duke did. That is, unless you can't find another way to route the hoses. I don't see any reason the hoses can't be as long as you want the to be. Curious how the outlet holes are only 1/4". You'd think you would want something larger to flow more oil.

There are also ports on the front of the engine on the other side that Paul used one of to plumb his pressure gage.

Check out page 2.3 of the engine manual. That where they plump the remote filter on a K662.

Spent the last 3 hours on hold with unemployment trying to get a couple of buck out of them. Sigh. What a scam that whole system is.

It's about to snow here, so it doesn't look like I'll be getting much done my my carb today.

Finally got my connectors from Newark electronics in the mail today. I might start in a replacing the plug on my C-120, and maybe rewiring my fuel pump on my D-180 to run off the ignition wire. Let me know if you need any.

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Heres the fix I came up with for my hood hinge and the lack of factory bushings. Got it together for some pics tonight to share. 1/2 x 3/8-16 NC stripper bolts, 1/2 nylatron washers, .54X31/32 rubber grommets..... Done deal.....vibration dampening, wont scuff the paint and should make the rattle that I had coming from up there go away.post-1339-0-50474400-1328745364_thumb.jppost-1339-0-67489900-1328745382_thumb.jppost-1339-0-90331000-1328745402_thumb.jp

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I certainly admire your out of the box thinking Jeff. Real nice work.

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Looking good. Glad you got your paint issues worked out. It shouldn't have anything to do with the rusto red primer. I used the same primer with the Valspar IH red in the tractor & implement and the Restoration series, with very good results. I also painted it over the rustolium rust reformer, in spray cans, with good results. Keep up the good work. :thumbs:

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Looking good. Glad you got your paint issues worked out. It shouldn't have anything to do with the rusto red primer. I used the same primer with the Valspar IH red in the tractor & implement and the Restoration series, with very good results. I also painted it over the rustolium rust reformer, in spray cans, with good results. Keep up the good work. :thumbs:

I am also using valspar over rustoleum rust reformer. Aside from some minor orangepealing in the beginning on a minor piece, it has worked out quite well.

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Heres the fix I came up with for my hood hinge and the lack of factory bushings. Got it together for some pics tonight to share. 1/2 x 3/8-16 NC stripper bolts, 1/2 nylatron washers, .54X31/32 rubber grommets..... Done deal.....vibration dampening, wont scuff the paint and should make the rattle that I had coming from up there go away.post-1339-0-50474400-1328745364_thumb.jppost-1339-0-67489900-1328745382_thumb.jppost-1339-0-90331000-1328745402_thumb.jp

Now thats a great idea! Really like that setup. Thanks for the detailed photo.

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Jeff,

When you redid your hood, did you drill out your old latches? Mine are riveted in. Did you order any from McMaster-Carr? I'd like to know how you made out with that.

Thanx,

James

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James,

I just ground the heads off the rivets and the latches just fell right off. Mine were very rough though, not much held them together. I did get replacements from McMaster. Theyre made by Southco, just like the originals. The snow didnt amount to much today so I plan on welding up all the cracks in the rear inner fenders and getting cracking on the remote oil filter plumbing if its not too cold out. Hopefully pics later

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your use of the rubber grommet on the hood latch is a smart idea Jeff. I have done the same thing using a thin plastic washer on the Snowthrower discharge hood (and added stainless steel hardware)....only have used in once this winter!!!

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jeff and james, really enjoying this thread. its almost like a double build in one. you guys are what this hobby, and forum are all about.

keep up the awesome work...... :handgestures-thumbup:

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