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i wonder if you let it dry enough between coats,what did the can say,or is the clear compatible with the paint?ive had this before too,just chalk it up to practise

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Don,

Valspar can says recoat within 4 hours or after 36. I had all coat 6 coats done within the 3 hours. I sprayed and gave roughly 30 minutes to "flash off" between coats. There was no clear coat involved.

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Great work Jeff. I am working on my own D-180. I am getting ready to do the gas tank which is in worse shape than yours. I am going to be ordering some edge trim off of ebay. If you are interested in some of it, drop me a line and we can work something out.

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Great work Jeff. I am working on my own D-180. I am getting ready to do the gas tank which is in worse shape than yours. I am going to be ordering some edge trim off of ebay. If you are interested in some of it, drop me a line and we can work something out.

I just ordered edge trim this morning and a decent original seat. It sure beats the POS thats on it now and its a WH seat. All I need is the knob for the backrest. I'm glad you're making progress on yours too. cant wait to see it done

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On the orange peel - believe me I'm no expert so take this with a grain of salt -

My experience it is usually caused by either contaminants on the metal, or incompatible paint/primer, and probably a mirad of other causes. I have ran into a lot of instances where a brand of primer doesn't work with the brand of paint used. It usually shows up quicker than what yours did but it has happened. . I use a lacquer primer and don't have any problems with either the automotive acrylic emamels or the cheaper Valspar or Van Sickle paints . Some use, I believe epoxy primer to prevent rust from reappearing and seals bad stuff up. But, I just use the enamel paints, no base/clear coat.

I use lacquer thinner to clean the metal before priming. There are products out there specifically for cleaning/etching bare metal. Lacquer thinner usually works for me. But, I'm not as picky as most -favorite saying - its just a tractor and looks better than when I started.

Again, real painters will say " what the heck are you doing", but most of the time it works for me. Hopefully this will get a response from a real painter.

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Great work Jeff. I am working on my own D-180. I am getting ready to do the gas tank which is in worse shape than yours. I am going to be ordering some edge trim off of ebay. If you are interested in some of it, drop me a line and we can work something out.

I just ordered edge trim this morning and a decent original seat. It sure beats the POS thats on it now and its a WH seat. All I need is the knob for the backrest. I'm glad you're making progress on yours too. cant wait to see it done

Thanx Jeff. Can you tell me what size trim you ordered? I measured the tank trim on mine, and it was 3/32 X 7/16. I'll probably order mine today.

Also, where did you order your seat from?

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James,

I got both the seat and trim on ebay . The seat is a great specimen and I only paid $60 for it. It might sound high for a used seat but the last original Wheel Horse seat I saw from a 70's era tractor with the high back adjustable backrest went for over $400, and that was last year. Granted this has 2 very small tears, 1 in the top of the backrest by the round seam trim and 1 under the front of the bottom. Both can be repaired very easily by a upholsterer. The other seat was a pristine NOS piece still in the bag...but for $400, it better wipe my A$$ when I get off of it to go inside. The trim is 1/8"x9/16" and is $1 a foot. A huge savings from ordering it right from Trim-lok. The item number for it is 290445288746.

Good luck my friend,

Tbbahner, All paint and primer are Valspar. I never thought it was a cheap paint by any stretch of the imagination. Most of the guys on here swear by it because of its color match and flowing properties.

The orange peel is very minor and I think with some 1000 grit or 1500 grit and some wetsanding it'll be almost gone. I guess maybe I'm just not a great painter. To be honest I will be perfectly happy with a 5 footer. This tractor is going to be a worker and what I am doing is making it look a whole lot better than what was done to it before I got it. It was truly a cobb job in every way...

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post-1339-0-94154000-1328044855_thumb.jp

I went to take the dash off today because it was a balmy 60 degrees here in PA. This was the surprise that was waiting for me when I took off the steering wheel cover. Just one more reason I believe that certain people should not be allowed to have tools or kids....freakin butchers... I had to walk away.... The pic doesnt show it very well but some genius apparently tried to heat it, not realizing rubber burns faster than steel heats up and then mushroomed the top over and bent it to boot from beating on it with a hammer.

Any ideas on how I might be able to get this wheel off?

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If any of you with the D tractors need any more edge trim I have a whole lot of it, will get the deminsions on it in a few as I am on my way to the barn to fight getting my steering wheel off! I also so have some edging in white, thought it might be something different, like painting my rims black. Any-who, if you still need some let me know.

Thanks.

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James,

I got both the seat and trim on ebay . The seat is a great specimen and I only paid $60 for it. It might sound high for a used seat but the last original Wheel Horse seat I saw from a 70's era tractor with the high back adjustable backrest went for over $400, and that was last year. Granted this has 2 very small tears, 1 in the top of the backrest by the round seam trim and 1 under the front of the bottom. Both can be repaired very easily by a upholsterer. The other seat was a pristine NOS piece still in the bag...but for $400, it better wipe my A$$ when I get off of it to go inside. The trim is 1/8"x9/16" and is $1 a foot. A huge savings from ordering it right from Trim-lok. The item number for it is 290445288746.

Good luck my friend,

Tbbahner, All paint and primer are Valspar. I never thought it was a cheap paint by any stretch of the imagination. Most of the guys on here swear by it because of its color match and flowing properties.

The orange peel is very minor and I think with some 1000 grit or 1500 grit and some wetsanding it'll be almost gone. I guess maybe I'm just not a great painter. To be honest I will be perfectly happy with a 5 footer. This tractor is going to be a worker and what I am doing is making it look a whole lot better than what was done to it before I got it. It was truly a cobb job in every way...

Thanx for the info Jeff. The seat that I have on mine is a junky swivel seat. Whenever it turns, it strikes the gas tank. I'm either going to have to replace the seat entirely (as funding permits), or stop the seat from swivelling. I ordered my edge trim from ebay earlier.

James

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post-1339-0-94154000-1328044855_thumb.jp

I went to take the dash off today because it was a balmy 60 degrees here in PA. This was the surprise that was waiting for me when I took off the steering wheel cover. Just one more reason I believe that certain people should not be allowed to have tools or kids....freakin butchers... I had to walk away.... The pic doesnt show it very well but some genius apparently tried to heat it, not realizing rubber burns faster than steel heats up and then mushroomed the top over and bent it to boot from beating on it with a hammer.

Any ideas on how I might be able to get this wheel off?

OMG!

Either you are going to make the steering wheel hole bigger, or make the shaft smaller (probably the latter). I predict some type of power tool in your future. Maybe bend the mushroomed portion of the shaft back in enough to get the steering wheel around it, or you are going to end up removing the mushroomed portion of the metal. It sure stinks either way. I'd really like to know what your final solution is when you find it.

James

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Any ideas on how I might be able to get this wheel off?

I am not there and it is hard to see how much if any of the threaded part of the shaft is left. What I might try is to grind off the rest of the shaft flush with the wheel hub. Then see if you can get bolt or something to fit in the shaft hole to tap against while pulling up on the wheel. I don't know what tools you have but you could drill and tap the hub also and that could give you more pressure to pull without tapping on the shaft. Then when you get it out I would drill a hole in the shaft lower than the sreering wheel fits and find a bolt or stud to insert in the hole amd weld in place. Then use a large washer and nut to hold the wheel on. Or you can watch $pay till a wheel and steering gear show up. Wish I had it here cause I look for this kind of challenge. Mike

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As stated, I would grind it flat first. Once done, soak it with a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone. Repeat for a week or more and then try to pull it. If it were me I would not tackle that job. I had a dash that was cut in 1/2 (the plastic dash) which is an idea too. How about leaving the wheel on and pulling the shaft? I forgot how that lays out.

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I'm not going to get started today due to rain. But its going to allow me to blast the fenders and remaining tins from the 18 auto so that I can get paint on them.

Stevbo,I have never heard of 50/50 tranny fluid and acetone. Is that a better form of penetrating oil that will work better? I have been soaking with Kroil since I found it yesterday and was going to continue that regimen until the weather lifts. I went out last night tothe depot and bought a Milwaukee tools cordless die grinder. Thats what I'm going to use to cut the mushroom off and then grind the remaining shaft flat. From the older posts I've seen Steve the whole steering shaft/box comes out. Its not like the C's that you can cut and then rejoin again. I'm not worried about the plastic dash, th 18 autos are a horseshoe type. I wanted to take the metal dash off to blast and paint. and then resticker before I install it back on. Hopefully pics later...

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These guys found the trans fluid/acetone mix to be the best.

Penetrating oil comparison

Interesting stuff to my friends that turn a wrench!

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test.*

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *

Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ............ ......... 516 pounds

WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............ . 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic

transmission fluid and acetone.*

*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one

particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all

now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is

about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *

*Your experience may vary, etc., etc.

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These guys found the trans fluid/acetone mix to be the best.

Penetrating oil comparison

Interesting stuff to my friends that turn a wrench!

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test.*

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *

Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ............ ......... 516 pounds

WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............ . 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic

transmission fluid and acetone.*

*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one

particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all

now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is

about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *

*Your experience may vary, etc., etc.

Does it matter what type of ATF is used?

James

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Thats an awesome pointer Massey that I will be putting into practice immediately....Thanks.

I got all my tins blasted today. They came out great. Unfortunately I have some major welding to do. There was a ton of cracks around the middle bolt hole on both bottom tins for the rear fenders. Basically the under seat part.. I guess I will be getting some heavy gauge sheet metal and welding it in to reinforce the entire area.

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Thats an awesome pointer James that I will be putting into practice immediately....Thanks.

I got all my tins blasted today. They came out great. Unfortunately I have some major welding to do. There was a ton of cracks around the middle bolt hole on both bottom tins for the rear fenders. Basically the under seat part.. I guess I will be getting some heavy gauge sheet metal and welding it in to reinforce the entire area.

If you are referring to the use of AFT/Acetone, then I think Massey deserves the credit. My only input was to question what type of ATF to use.

Here's a thought - what would be the negatives of using old ATF that is beyond its useful life for hydraulic use? Since it's only going to be used to free up parts, this might be a good use for old ATF.

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Another mixture to use is atf/keresone..we use it at work to clean our big saws.

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Hodge, I have been meaning to ask. Is the original color of the grille red or black?

I noticed that you painted yours red. I have seen many with black grilles (as is mine), and thought that was the original color.

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hey i now know what to do with the tranny oil from the 312

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James the original color on my grille was red. I blasted 4 different coats of paint off of it. 1 of them was black, but the original color was definitely red.

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James the original color on my grille was red. I blasted 4 different coats of paint off of it. 1 of them was black, but the original color was definitely red.

Thanx Hodge. Most of the pictures that I see on the net have a red grille. I'll probably strip mine next week and see if there is any red underneath.

Funny thing, my tractor has three of four coats of paint also, and one of them is blue. Why would anyone want to paint theirs blue?

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Thats an awesome pointer James that I will be putting into practice immediately....Thanks.

I got all my tins blasted today. They came out great. Unfortunately I have some major welding to do. There was a ton of cracks around the middle bolt hole on both bottom tins for the rear fenders. Basically the under seat part.. I guess I will be getting some heavy gauge sheet metal and welding it in to reinforce the entire area.

If you are referring to the use of AFT/Acetone, then I think Massey deserves the credit. My only input was to question what type of ATF to use.

Here's a thought - what would be the negatives of using old ATF that is beyond its useful life for hydraulic use? Since it's only going to be used to free up parts, this might be a good use for old ATF.

Actually Stevebo nailed it, I just did the cutting and pasting.

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James my whole tractor was black at 1 point apparently. I'm not sure how it would have looked like that. I'm sure it couldnt be as bad as blue though....its my favorite color but horses should be red.... Some of the grey ones I have seen on here look good too though

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