Will G 3 #1 Posted January 2, 2012 Confirmed that my new C-81 is not charging the battery when running, where should I start troubleshooting? Has a Kohler K181 spec number 30700 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #2 Posted January 2, 2012 Start here: http://www.asberry.net/files/TP-2379.pdf That's the Kohler service manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Will G 3 #4 Posted January 2, 2012 Looks like my rectifier/regulator is bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #5 Posted January 3, 2012 i dont know how you came to this but make sure that the ground for thr the rectifier is good,i ran a direct wire to the neg post on my c160 from the rectifier where it bolts to the tractor,its common for it to be the ground Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,864 #6 Posted January 3, 2012 Looks like my rectifier/regulator is bad. How do you know that it is bad? Did you check to see what the AC voltage is coming from the stator? What is the DC voltage coming from the B+ terminal of the regulator/rectifier? As Don said, make sure the regulator/rectifier is properly grounded. A bad ground can cause over-voltage as well as other symptoms. Before assuming that you have a bad R/R, check all connectors in the charging circuit. Here is the wiring diagram for the charging circuit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Will G 3 #7 Posted January 3, 2012 I have about 40 volts AC coming out of the stator at 3600 rpms, I also tested the regulator/rectifier on the bench with my multimeter and one of the diodes is shorted. Have no output on the B+ terminal of the reg/rect at 3600 rpm. Ground is indeed OK to the battery with .1k ohms between the case of the reg/rect and the neg batt terminal. The ammeter shows a discharge when cranking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Will G 3 #8 Posted January 7, 2012 Installed a good used regulator/rectifier and now it works. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sidperry 1 #10 Posted January 11, 2014 Do this test on the bench! I test shunt regulators by using a 24 VAC (from radio shack) transformer hooked to the two AC input pins. You MUST hook a good battery up to the +B terminal and the battery's minus post to the heat sink case on the regulator for it to work as in the tractor. I do this on the shop bench away from the tractor. Then I measure the battery voltage, it should be 13+ volts and going up or staying around or near 13 VDC if your regulator is working. FYI one stator input is directly connected to the +B internally just inside the regulator input lugs. A shunt regulator works by shorting (Via SCR) any over voltage directly to ground when the battery is at full charge, thus the big heat sink used to soak up unneeded voltage. If the output starts dropping the regulator is NG. You could, if you got creative, hook a load across the battery to simulate a load. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #11 Posted January 11, 2014 I just use one of these: 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
