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416H Transmission Oil Question
Good Afternoon... I need to change the transmission oil in my 1994 416H. Hoping to find some direction on two questions:
1. Where can I obtain a filter for the transmission oil? Are there NAPA match ups or do I need to order from another location?
2. The manual specifies 10W-40 to be used in the transmission. Do you reccommedn somnething differemnt?
Thanks in advance for the help!
So be nice to me but I am working on my 1st WH. 855 I got everything running and I'm trying to figure out the transmission. I feel like I'm constantly grinding gears. I'm new to these tractors so I have no experience but I'm expecting this to not be very challenging. Maybe it's just getting used to the shifting? Or is this an indication that I have a bigger problem? Seems like sometimes it's not an issue but others it's grinding back at me. Any advice?
314-8 Tranny problem
Hi all, my first post here. I bought a 314-8 this past fall, with a mower deck and snowblower. All was fine, other than a sticky first gear. I replaced oil, new fuel filter and gas line on the tractor, and also new belt on the snowblower. First snowfall it worked well, but ran a little rough. This past week, I got one swipe of the driveway done, and when shifting from reverse to 2 ( couldn't get it to shift into 1 and stay) the Tranny wouldn't engage, leaving me stuck. No reverse, no forward. Engine still running fine, drive belt seems in good order.
I pulled the shifter today, which is intact and looks fine. Trans fluid looks a bit low, and milky, so I think some water got in there. The gears seem to shift smooth, but the tractor just won't engage. I called the guy I bought it from, who assured me all was in good order, as I can't seem to find someone to work on the unit here in RI. Any thoughts??? I'm OK mechanically, but not a whiz, and not set up to pull and rebuild a transmission.
Complete Pedal Kits for Hydrostatic Wheelhorse / Toro Tractors
I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that
The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.
The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal.
The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500.
My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information.
Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99750546/Wheel%20Horse%20Hydro%20Foot%20Pedal%20Instructions%20V3.pdf
I am selling these kits for $250 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below.
And Lastly - Here is a video demonstrating the hydro control foot pedal in action...
3 SPEED #5025 UNI-DRIVE REBUILD
My intent here is to show lots of pictures so if anyone is rebuilding one of these or some of the others...you can do it without fear and I am adding some very helpful information. I had a post that lead up to this that has some information in it also, and while it overlaps, I wanted to do the rebuild separate. This post is meant to be used with the manual...the pictures help explain better then the pictures in the manual.
Now I want to share what I learned as I rebuild this...I realize that some have done this, but this was my first time (transmission virgin) and I know I am not the last one to do this. If I can help or make this easier, then I have given back a little from all the help I have received from this site.
This is a shot showing gear placement in the left side of the case. Notice the bevel of the reverse gear (front right). The left side is the shallow side of the transmission halves.
These are the parts of the differential..the 2 casings on the outside, the 2 axles, the differential bull gear, the 4 posts and the pinions that go on these, and the bolts and nuts that hold it all together.
I can't get enough looks at the gears before I tear it apart...next 2 pictures are for future reference.
I found a good assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 sockets that made fair to good arbors for pounding out and tapping in most of the bearings and seals.
These are the bearings and seals you need to do the R&R. You can get all the stuff from Toro or the site that Jason gave in the related post. One note...the Toro#1303 seal is discontinued. This is called a cup seal, because it has a cup shape. I replaced it with a kind of match (SKF #7410) same dimensions but more like a regular oil seal...it will work. This place used to be Berry Bearings in Elgin...now it is "Motion Industries"...the web site MotionMRO.com...they can match up any bearing or seal. Excellent info. and prices were very good.
Shot of the bearings and seals removed, cleaned and sanded. Used Valspar Restoration series...I like the red match with my 702 and I like the hardness of the paint.
Showing bearings and seals installed...notice (arbors on right).
Putting differential back together...show axle in place with bolts in place.
Added pinion posts and in 2nd picture...added pinions (alternating one up and one down).
Added Bull Gear
Added other axle and case and bolted together. At this point, make sure you can rotate the axles...they should rotate in opposite directions.
Placing input shaft and gear (one piece) and the reverse idler shaft.
Installed the 2nd & high shift rail and fork. (one on the left). Also installed both ball bearings, spring and stop pin, and low & reverse shift rail. The 2 sliding gears were then placed...the grooves face each other and the smaller gear goes on the bottom.
I had a pencil magnet that I used to hold the 2nd ball bearing, while I took an Allen wrench through the hole to hold the bearing out of the way while I placed the low and reverse shift rail. the picture also shows the reverse idler and brake shaft in place.
Another view showing forks and gears.
Showing reverse idler (bevel up...I hope) in front. Splined shaft installed through the shift fork sliding gears. The cluster gear is then installed( 2 wood-ruff keys here...one on each end). Also, the differential and axles are placed (note the nuts are facing up).
yet one more angle
Put together..old 5 gal wood create works great as a work bench (all shafts fit through and keep work level). Used a hard rubber hammer to tap halves together.
No leaks when I filled with 90wt gear oil...approx 1 1/2 qts. Checked shifting and started to put the 702 back together today. A final picture or a video tomorrow (hope).
I want to thank Rickv1957 Fan, MikeRJ, Buckrancher,Suburban550,IndyWH Smokin'Joe, the Helmett and Charlie for all their help and advice...a huge thank you guys.