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HorseFixer

Calling All Engine Techs ONAN Needs the AED

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I believe the newer ones have the longer filters....my 93 has a long filter and the 88 and 89 I had were the short ones.

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Guys I took a Coffee Can Yesterday and layed a Bounty Paper Towel over the top of the can and put a 3/4 socket to make it sag down a bit with clothes pins to hold it till I taped the rim of the can to hold the Paper towel in place. I then took the Ole Oil and poured it into the coffee can a bit at a time (dimple only held about 6oz, I kept doing that till I got down to the bottom and took a paint stirring stick and scraped the bottom of plastic container and put in paper towel. after it finished being strained thru towel I examined the remains of particles and ran a pick of tool MAGGET over the towel and picked up nothing. :thumbs: then examined the rest and all I can see was in there was flecks of Gasket Material that had broken off or fell down in the case when I took apart the engine and had to change the gasket a couple times 1 being the last timing gear line up thingy. :roll: I then spun on the new wix filter and put in the Earl ran it for a 1 1/2 hr at variable speeds shut it off checked the oil and it was clean as could be. :thumbs2: I think the rings have seated now and I was getting a little blow by and carbon in the oil till things seated. :dunno: She runs sweet and when cold from sitting overnight just need to hit the throttle while cranking very little and she starts right up. After leaving set for 3-4 hrs Just have to crank over a couple rotations and she's running. I have about 5 1/2 hrs runtime on the engine. I will run it about 4 1/2 more hours then re-torque head bolts and pulley bolts remove intake and exhaust and adjust valves I hear a tiny bit of tappet at certain speeds a very tiny bit. Do you guys here that? The manuals kinda vague on feeler Gage adjustment they say I Quote, "The Correct Feeler Gage For Valve Adjustment (see specifications) should pass freely between the valve cap (p216,p218,p200) or valve stem (P224) and tappet: a .002 inch (.MM) thicker Gage should not (figure 1). Un-Quote...... WTF does that mean? I interpet It guess as saying that the intake being .005 thousandths gap cant be .002 thousandths more being maximum .007 thousandths? if I have a very so light tappet clicking and really not that bad should I even fool with it? And if I were tightening up maybe an extra .001 thousandths take that away? And my freely and their freely maybe different??????? see what I'm saying? :thankyou: for all your input. :bow-blue:

~Duke

:beer:

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I know the car guys on my other forum simply hate the Fram filters, something about there being no anti drain back valve in their car filters? The Napa/Wix brand is highly recommended though.

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duke, good to see you figured out the engine rebuild thing, you alays learn the most hen you have to go back and find out what went wrong. the dirt in the first oil change is from all of the high peaks in the cylinder hone pattern being polished off by the piston rings and seating the contact surfaces to a smoother surface that increases the seal between the rings and cylinders.

A typical oil sample/analysis taken on any new engine after breakin will show enough foriegn particles to indicate failure is imminent, from the initial wear/seating in of the components, that is hy the breakin and first oil &filter change are so important.

Using feeler guages/shimstock to adjust the valves is and alays has been a ''feel'' thing that has to be developed over time, consequently the term feeler guage. their are several ways to help you develop the proper feel of the drag on the guage, probably the best way is to use 2 sets of guages, one guage of the desired clearance .004 and a set of go,no go guages .004/.006 that are on both sides of the desired clearance, the .005 should feel some drag, the .004 should slide right thru and the.006 should be tight or not go at all. depending on how hard it is to get the guage into the valve stem some times it is advantagous to bend the blade for easy access.

I would use the longer filter for more filtering capacity and make sure to run a grommet on the tin to keep the cooling air inside and on the cooling fins.

Did you cut the filter open and inspect it for debris after breakin, ? use a canopener type cutter not a hacksaw and then unravel the corrigater filter paper and look for the junk in the folds.

good luck

shorts

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Hey brother Paul where you been? :thumbs: Rodger D on the go over, sometimes the third time is a charm. Onan Smoenan! Nothing to um! :snooty: I can say that now with confidence! :) I have never done an oil analisis yet But my Friends at AMSOIL does this for 30 bucks I think. :scratchead: Like I say other than the few gasket flecks I dont see anything else must be the stuff yer talking about. I think I'm in the safe zone now as the oil looked very clean, I have cut lots of filters open in my research on oil and filters and what they are made of (see link below) I also slitthe can open with scre driver and hammer and finish with sheet metal snips, and Ill do the two feeler gauge on the next trip! :thumbs2: thanks for the tip. Before engine is mounted there will be a remote filter setup and I will block large hole that it leaves with cover this will get more air over head and I will be adding a Larger Filter for filtration and may put an oil cooler inline. :dunno: anyways you take care.

~Duke

http://wolverine-synthetics.com/pages/amsoil_filter_comparison.html

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See if your local Napa has the oil filter cut out display. You'll never buy a Fram again. I worked at a Napa for 10 years and always "enjoyed" my exchanges :bitch: with customers who insisted on Fram. I always won! :banana-wrench:

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Perhaps your engine rebuild trip can be done at the WH show in June...you could take apart the engine and rebuild it for a class! LOL! just kidding, I know you spent a lot of time, money and cursing but it really payed out. a nice rebuild!!

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Damm proud of ya my friend, Great job and nice to see it running like it should. :thumbs:

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See if your local Napa has the oil filter cut out display. You'll never buy a Fram again. I worked at a Napa for 10 years and always "enjoyed" my exchanges :bitch: with customers who insisted on Fram. I always won! :banana-wrench:

Thanks Guys! :thumbs:

Fram is like Bose in Stereos A Better Product through Advertisement :hilarious: Yeah Yer right Mike, they are a chitty filter, The Very Worst Out there compared to my cutaway

Demo I did those are just a scant few of the ones I have cut open. I just dont understand how they can be the best selling out there :dunno: You would be better off wadding some news paper up and stuff it in a coffee can! :jaw: Yeah this project has been quite a Journey. When I was on the C-120 the other day the snow was HEAVY and the Kohler sounds good when its grunting like that But I say a prayer :pray: when I push the Ole gal that hard!

~Duke

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duke;

we've been busy with other projects and I have not been following as close as I should since the website changeover,

oil samples are a very usefull maintainence tool for monitoring component wear and service intervals on expensive equipment and components like large drivelines and standby power units that are either life critical or major capital expenses. I find it hard to justify the cost of regular oil analysis at every oil change on a relativly inexpensive piece of equipment, sure I'm gonna be just as upset as the next guy if my engine shoots craps, that's why I do the regular maintainence and repairs as recommended.

When you go shoping for the remote oilfilter and cooler pieces,I'd recommend that you choose what standard oil filter you want to use and start with that base then find the adapter to fit the engine, then make up thennecessary lines and mounts. If youre thinking spin on filter, the standard is the ford size/fram ph8a base size, if you want something that is reuseable, parker fluid power and moroso make an aluminim base with a cleanable internal screen, you will have a choice of mesh size for the screen.

if you want more info pm or call me.

shorts

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Wow! I'll tell you this has been like one of those soap operas on TV. One thing is for sure, everybody has got a lesson on Onan rebuilds. Boy that starts better than any of my Onans and sounds really good. You should be proud of that job. She sould last a lifetime.

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Use WIX filters. They are THE BEST. That is the only thing we stock where I work and I would never use anything else. FYI, a NAPA filter is a wix filter but with the first digit of the part number taken off. At NAPA, Dukes filter is 1762 but at any other store that carries wix, it is a 51762.

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Duke, What's the problem using a Onan filter? Have you cut one of them open

to see what they are made of? If it's cost then go for a cheeper cut of meat on

your next BBQ and it will balance out. Nothing like going first class on the Horse

and second on the dinner table.

A few years back I had a couple of customers with Mazda MPV's that had lifter

noise. Dealers were replacing lifters due to poor oil filtration, The best advice

they were given is use the Mazda oil filter and it worked. They couldn't require

the filter for warranty because of Magnum-Moss act. Only OEM filter I kept on

hand for quite a few years. Wix is probably your best second choice though.

Mike

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