1054 Modification Dilema

[IBleedRed 24]

Since I'm new I'll introduce myself. My name is Bill and I've lived in Central New York my whole life, most of which was spent helping my grandfather working on tractors and going to tractor shows. And it was at a tractor shows that I saw my first WH ( well, 5 RJs in a row), and it was love at first sight. Since then when me and my grandfather pick up whatever model we can get a deal on, though the RJ model still aludes us. So heres the Problem:

A month ago I picked up a 1054 in rough shape, but I mainly needed it as workhorse for my homebuilt loader. When I bought it I knew it had bad transaxle, so I used the axles in an 8 speed 8 pinion transaxle I had lying around. Next came the engine. It had a running, but very smoky, original 10hp engine. Since I planned on so much for this tractor I replaced it with a newer 12hp k301, as I wanted a more reliable starting and charging system. I bought tires for it, but there 12.5 15s and they stand 33" tall. I've already cut and widend the rims, and mounted the tires. My biggest dilema is that the tires wont fit under the fenders, so i need to either cut the fenders or make spacers that move the tire out 5-6". Personally I dont like the look of the tires sticking way out, and I dont want that much stress on the axle. On the other hand I only have the one set of fenders. Another reason I dont mind cutting the fenders is that I never plan on doing a full restore, and more modifications are sure to come(such as a 3 point hitch I'm working on). All opinions welcomed.

[wh-jason 32]

i always hate hacking on good sheet metal...can you raise the fenders a couple inches? im not familiar with the 1054 models so i dont know how the fenders mount.

[Martin 2,130]

well just my opinion, but i wouldnt cut the fenders. i also wouldnt space the wheels out to clear either, its going to put a lot of stress on the axles etc. if it was me i probably would look to other tires/wheel sizes that would fit under that fender. as you already know those fenders are part of the whole rear body and frame assembly and its not just a simple task to remove them or fix a hack job later on. you could lift the body/frame and remount the transaxle lower by fabbing up a plate to bolt them together but then you have drive issues to sort as well. and that wouldnt look right. i just think it would be less trouble to find different wheels.

[IBleedRed 24]

In order to put different tires on I need replacement rims, which have been impossible to find. Another thing is that there damage to the rear of the fenders that is beyond my ability to repair.

[Martin 2,130]

what sort of wheel centers do you have? if they are the 1054 originals you could just weld some 15 inch rims on them. i think you can get them online from speedway motors. i tried some of the 15 inch chevy wheel rims i have and they looked like they would fit too.

[Jake Kuhn 1,547]

:WRS:

[IBleedRed 24]

Jake, thanks for the welcome.

Currently the centers are welded into 15x8 rims that the tires are on. I really wanted to make these tires work.

[sorekiwi 761]

Welcome to RS Bill.

I understand your dilemma, I am in a similar position with my 1054, but I have the advantage that my tractor looks a lot worse than yours!

I am probably going to chop on mine a bit, I would really like to go with a GT 14 based 3 point hitch as well, but I wont feel bad about it as my tractor is far from being a restoration candidate.

It's your tractor, do what you want with it and you dont have to please anyone here! But having said that though, in my opinion those tires just dont look right on your tractor, they are too much of the monster! I'm gonna go with either the American Farmer 7.60 -15"s or the Goodyear 6-70 - 15's from Miller Tire. I like wide tires, but I like them on more modern equipment, the old stuff needs to be on narrow tires (In my bigotted opinion of course!!)

[IBleedRed 24]

Although it goes against what everyone says, I think I'm going to cut it up. I've already ordered 1" trailer spindles and hubs for the front. In the end I think it will all balance out once I'm done with the modifications. I'll hold onto the fender pieces if I change my mind. Someday I would love to restore a 1054 to have as a yard tractor, but this ones fate is already decided.

sorekiwi, have you come up with how your going to do your 3 point hitch? I have a few ideas of my own, but I dont have the stuff I need for a final design yet. I came accross this kit to use as my base: http://www.eezs.com/product.php?task=detail&Product_Id=295

[sorekiwi 761]

sorekiwi, have you come up with how your going to do your 3 point hitch? I have a few ideas of my own, but I dont have the stuff I need for a final design yet. I came accross this kit to use as my base: http://www.eezs.com/...&Product_Id=295

Glad you have made up your mind! For me that is the hardest part.

I havent really looked into it in detail, but I think I'm going to copy most of a GT14 hitch. The upper arm part will need to be changed due to the different transmission, but all the mounts for the lower arms should be the same I think.

There are some good shots of the GT14 setup in this current thread:

I think I will most likely borrow a GT14 hitch from a friend and copy it. The little toolbox at the back of the seatpan will need some surgery to get the upper arms in, mine is all rusted out anyway so that wont worry me. I doubt I will do anything with my 1054 before next summer, I have way too many tractors in pieces as it is!

The kit you linked to looks like a good starting point. I'll be following your progress with interest.

[baerpath 517]

This is a 516 with three pt and standard trans. Uses assorted GT14 parts 3pt is elec over hyd for it. Not far from you Red.

[IBleedRed 24]

For my set up I was hoping to run a cable to the hydraulic lift in the center of the tractor, but its proving to be a bit of a challenge.

baerpath, eny good deals on WH or WH blowers in your area?

[baerpath 517]

baerpath, eny good deals on WH or WH blowers in your area?

snowblowers $150 each complete tractors $200 and up

Wouldn't be hard to adapt your fenders to fit your wheels or to split the hydralics to make a rear 3pt independent of the center lift or in place of it. Also you could turn a 1054 hub so it will take a regular hay wagon rim.

Duane

[IBleedRed 24]

Well heres the end result:

[IBleedRed 24]

I'll have to admit its a far cry from how I was hoping it would look like in the end. Eventually I'll get it back to a semi stock look with the right size rims, tires and new replacement fenders. Until then I'm going to focus on the loader frame and 3 point hitch. Eny good ideas on resevoir tank placement? My thoughts so far are off the front, or cut out the seat toolbox and custom fit one there.

[otrelwood 32]

most of the loaders use part of the frame of the loader for a resevoir.

[bell 11]

I wouldn't give up on it just yet... I see you have a mig welder. I would get some sheet metal in the same gauge as the original, and rebuild the fenders... only taller. I think it would look great! I would also keep an eye out for a 8speed transmission and do the swap when your 3-speed gives out. The bolt patterns are different (where the transmission bolts on), but it should be fairly easy to redrill the case, or the frame to make it work... Good luck and keep us posted!

[IBleedRed 24]

I originally used the uprights for it, but I want a seperate tank incase I add more hydraulics later on. Here are some pictures of the loader on my Raider 12. Currently I'm using a cut in half lawn roller for a bucket until I get enough material to build a proper one.

I already have an eight speed eight pinion rear in it. That was my first major undertaking when I got the tractor as it had a bad differential and I had an extra transaxle.

[sorekiwi 761]

If the loader and 3 point are going to have their own seperate hydraulics, I guess you are going to have to have seperate pumps for each as well?

Does your loader use both uprights for its oil tank? My Johnson uses only the right hand upright, maybe you could use the left hand one for the 3 point?

Do you intend to keep the center lift operational? With a loader mounted you might not have a use for the centre lift, how about using the factory pump/reservoir for operating the 3 point? Or even replace the factory pump with a modern pump in the same location?

[AMC RULES 36,941]

We don't need no stinking fenders! I like it better without 'em. :twocents-twocents:

[IBleedRed 24]

I'm already planning to use the factory center lift for my 3 point hitch, so I'm not worried about that. My main concern is if I decide to build a backhoe or something else that requires hydraulics I'll be all set for it. Also I had to use both uprights for my loader to have enough fluid to run it, which in the end was a big mess.

[Nick 13]

You could add a 3rd valve at the loader valve to handle the 3pt lift cylinder and if you have a power beyond valve then your all set to add the backhoe at a later time also. I think it might have been mentioned but removing the factory pump could give you more space for an oil reservoir if needed. Plus selling the Wheel horse hydraulic pump could probably bring in a few dollars for the project.

I have removed it but did have a 3 point on my ranger using the loaders pump and a 3 spool valve. Do wish the valve had a float for the 3pt for working with a blade. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cq_oUGMJ6CE

[SPINJIM 1,978]

_{Have you considered welding on ROUND FENDERS from another brand of tractor? A set of fenders from an Economy Power King, or a compact Farmall would make your tractor look like a Wheel Horse Suburban on steroids. Your original fenders looked like they were in bad shape, so I think you made the right decision to cut them off. The restoration police aren't paying the bills. Good luck, and send pictures of the results.}

_Jim

[IBleedRed 24]

I like the Farmall fender idea. I think if i can come across a pair of Farmall Cub fenders they would work out great on it.

Finally got my new front spindles and hubs in, now I just need some warmer temps to get to work on them.

[IBleedRed 24]

Has enyone come across replacement throttle and choke cables for this machine?