mailman 1 #1 Posted June 28, 2008 I am trying to replace the oil seal on my 8 hp Kohler. After looking at this seal it looks as though it was set in too deep. Any thoughts? It looks as though it was set about an inch past the outside of the block. Should it have been set in less? By the way, it is leaking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #2 Posted June 28, 2008 That one is definitely too deep, Eric. You can install the new one without removing the old one if you can't get it out. (I have done it a few times.) Either way, install the new seal until it is about 1/64" to 1/32" below the outer surface of the block. (just a smidge below "flush") That should get you back in business. :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJ 310-8 0 #3 Posted July 6, 2008 Hmmm..., not that I'm an expert..., but is that seal in backwards..?? Shouldn't the flat face of the seal be out, and the lip in towards the crankcase..?? Just checkin'.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #4 Posted July 6, 2008 Most Kohler seals I've seen are double-lip. The outer lip keeps out contaminants, and the inside lip holds the oil in. The picture isn't clear enough for me to tell if it's backwards, but it's definitely too deep. B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mailman 1 #5 Posted July 6, 2008 Ok. The seal that is in right now is like pic #1. This side out. Not like this pic #2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #6 Posted July 6, 2008 Picture #1 is correct, Eric. It must have leaked because it was installed to deep and/or it was twisted. Any luck extracting the old seal? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mailman 1 #7 Posted July 6, 2008 Haven't tried yet TT. Trying to find something to pick it out with. But if it's ok to push another in without getting the other out, then I will do that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #8 Posted July 6, 2008 I have two engines floating around the USA that have the old seal inside the new one. I have sucessfully removed a few old ones by tapping two long "deck screws" into the seal face to get them started, screw them in until they get a good bite, and then use vise-grips or pliers to grip the screws and gently pulling equally until the seal is out. :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 151 #9 Posted July 6, 2008 Unless it's a BAD leaker, I would recommend getting the old seal out of there. Otherwise, there will be nothing to keep the new seal lubed, and it will burn it up. If a seal runs dry, it will have a short life. $.02 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mailman 1 #10 Posted July 6, 2008 Eldon, It actually does leak pretty badly. So, if it doesn't come out, it may not be a problem. I like the screws technique. Sounds like it could work. Thanks once again TT. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #11 Posted July 6, 2008 I made sure I punched a few holes through the ones I left in. The one was actually missing the entire lip until I was done TRYING to get it removed, so I figured it was as good as gone. B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curmudgeon 28 #12 Posted July 6, 2008 Where was that screw idea when I really needed it!!!!! That would work on many other seals I've had a dickens of a time digging out!! Like say, on the 8-speeds....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #13 Posted July 6, 2008 Addition number two-hundred and forty seven...... If accessible, drill small pilot holes in the seal face to allow the screw to start biting quicker. This is also better when there's a risk of loosing the seal back in the bore where it is installed. If metal shavings are a concern, pack the flutes of the drill bit with grease to catch them. (This also works great when drilling and tapping a stripped spark plug hole for insertion of a threaded insert.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustbucket 4 #14 Posted July 6, 2008 you mean a heli coil TT Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curmudgeon 28 #15 Posted July 6, 2008 Addition number two-hundred and forty seven...... If accessible, drill small pilot holes in the seal face to allow the screw to start biting quicker. This is also better when there's a risk of loosing the seal back in the bore where it is installed. If metal shavings are a concern, pack the flutes of the drill bit with grease to catch them. (This also works great when drilling and tapping a stripped spark plug hole for insertion of a threaded insert.) Just goes to show, while it's good to listen to your elders, sometimes it's good for us elders to listen as well!!!!!!!!!! Though it is hard to swallow sometimes.... B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #16 Posted July 6, 2008 you mean a heli coil TT Nope.... I don't use Heli-Coils in spark plug holes. I only use the shouldered threaded inserts that won't screw completely through the hole. Ever try and dig a Heli Coil insert out of a cylinder on a car engine? B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustbucket 4 #17 Posted July 6, 2008 yeah when i was in high school auto tech class freshman year. teacher said to heli coil it and well you know the rest. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #18 Posted July 7, 2008 Just goes to show, while it's good to listen to your elders, sometimes it's good for us elders to listen as well!!!!!!!!!! Though it is hard to swallow sometimes.... You're safe, Dale. Dad is 72 years old and spent about 45 years working in a large machine shop. I feel honored to distribute his knowledge and tricks to the rest of the people I come in contact with. So...... The credit actually goes to the greatest "elder" I know! B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJ 310-8 0 #19 Posted July 7, 2008 OOPS Sorry...!! I guess it being inset so deep, it looked like Pic# 2 to me... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
