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Hodge71

'73 18 auto update

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Well I just figured I'd give you guys an update as to where I'm at with the tractor. I jumped in an rebuilt the carb with a bit of prodding from Tunahead and the help of a manual I downloaded. I am so glad I did. The amount of crud in the bowl of this thing was unbelievable, plus water and assorted other problems caused by ethanol in the gas. I got her all back together and reset the mixture screws to factory default. I also changed out the bad fuel pump with a brand new Mr. Gasket 12s universal low pressure pump. I had to replace the battery as this one wasn't holding a charge and after taking it to the local parts store to have it tested, I found it had a dead cell. While I was at it I took the opportunity to head to Tractor Supply and get new battery terminals and wires to replace the old shoddy ones. What I can say say at this point is the fuel filter is full to the top with crystal clear fuel, the tractor starts right up and runs like a dream, it idles with no more misses and runs great.....for 15 minutes...... :angry-banghead: It then shuts off again. Let it sit for a bit and she fires right up. The only thing I see out of the ordinary is that the tractor runs great until the hydro warms up. As soon as it the needle moves past 150 and up to 250 (even though my IR thermometer tells me the hydro is 114 degrees) it then shuts down. Is this a coincindence or is there a sefety built in that shuts the tractor off so that you dont damage the hydro in an overtemp situation. I will check further tomorrow but it was dark and I feel pretty damn good about the progress that I made on this thing. I'm just back to square 1...well maybe square 3, at least it runs now and has a strong fuel pump, an immaculate carb, new battery and terminals/wires. Any help on the whole shut down for no reason would be appreciated guys. And thanks to those who were nice enough to share their knowledege to get me this far. :bow-blue:

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Jeff I looked it up in the wiring diagram it does show a hydro safety switch in line. I don't know much of anything about the small D's

But when the O ring blew and dumped the oil could it have affected it ? I don't know, Anyone ?

If you run a jumper wire to the positve side of the coil from pos of the battery you'll know for sure, That will bypasses all safety switches but make sure it's not going to move it also bypasses the key shutting it off

Duane

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I really didn't know there was a safety switch on the hydro line. I think there was a fan that started when the temp got to a certain temperature but I that was later I thought. My 74 doesn't have any sort of temperature safety switch.

I see the switch you are referring to but that is the switch for the hydro to be in the park position before starting.

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Shot in the dark Is the vent open on the fuel cap ? Try running it with the cap just sitting on the tank and see if it quits

Duane

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I do like Duane's first suggestion about the coil wire. From what you are describing, with the carb rebuild and new pump, lines, filter etc., it seems to be electrical. I had a bad connection to the coil that had me standing downhill wondering how to get the tractor uphill after it stalled. It was the switch. Just had a bad connection. In fact I am on my third switch now....

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Ok guys heres more info,

vent on fuel cap isn't a problem, the fuel cap that was on it had no gasket and leaked like a seive every time I went up hill so it has a brand new vented fuel cap. I will try the jumper wire straight to the coil tomorrow and see where I get from there. I'm pretty postive that the trans temp gauge is bad. as it reads 250 degrees when the hydro warms up even though my hand and my IR thermometer tell me that the temp is 114 degrees. I'm just happy I've gotten this far. I can't wait to see how it looks with the new 28X8.50-15 skid steer tires on the back and the new 18X10-8 turf savers up front. :eusa-whistle:

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Probably the sending unit at the pump is bad and giving the gauge a screwed up signal. I got a Faze temp and voltage gauge off fleebay to replace the 40 year old temp and ammeter units. The new temp sending unit had various sizes of plugs.

28 inch tires will make it stand up there. It will look great!!! That is some wide front tires.....I think mine are 18X8.5.....

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I'm still lost on the temp gauge thing. I do have a wiring diagram for the tractor and it does show the gauge but it doesnt show a temp safety switch on mine. The hydro safety switch in the wiring diagram is a ball and detent type that allows the tractor to only start with the brake pedal pushed down. Same as the PTO safety that wont allow the engine to start with the PTO engaged. Thereby not allowing the operator to get run over by starting the machine with the motion control lever engaged. On this thing both have been bypassed by previous owners. Hence the reason I'm going to make my own new wiring harness for the entire tractor. With none of the lights working and so many splices and pieces of electrical tape it needs serious help....oh and they are some serious meats that I'm putting on her. It should look great.

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One time I started mine up and moved it to the door of the garage (both my safety switches work by the way). I decided to let it warm up a bit more and shoveled the snow close to the walk in garage door. All of a sudden here it comes out of the garage plowing snow down the driveway with me chasing it....lol. Could have been a disaster but wasn't. Now I be sure to have the parking pawl set before I get off the thing. I guess it still could happen tho....prolly should shut it down if I get off now thinking about it.

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:ROTF: Bob....I think we've all been there at one point or another

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"All of a sudden here it comes out of the garage plowing snow down the driveway with me chasing it."

Bob,

AFV here we go! That would have been quite the video! :rolleyes:

Hang in there Jeff, in the end you will have a great ride!

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Ok guys,

More help needed. I have decided that its has to be the coil/condenser. I've bypassed everything and ran a hot wire right to the coil. Ran great for about 10 minutes and **** the bed. Checked for spark.....nuttin....Local Toro dealer belly laughed in my face when I asked about a coil and condenser for a 1973 Kohler K482. Does anyone have a source for these things? Internet is laughing at me too when I search for it.

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http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=kohler_engines&mn=K482-35209+TRACTOR&dn=catalogs_27156

OUCH!

Now you know why guys switch out the ignitions on these things!

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Hey Jeff....TT has said before to use a Harley coil.....you can find them on fleebay. Look just like one for the 482. I don't think I can post it here. I'll send you a pm.

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I agree must be the condensor or coil, just about any condensor will work that has wire attached and there only a few dollars as far as the coil i seem them on ebay used for around 30.00 one from a kohler k532 or k582 will work. A early harley coil looks the same too see no reason thay would'nt work you can buy those new for around 40.00.

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There are many ways you can do the job. I have seen the Briggs magnetron used quite a bit as well.

On my Racer I am switching to Chevy HEI, I have seen mopar units used and high end MSD stuff on them.

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Thanks for the help guys. My Toro dealer did call me back to tell me he could get the coil for $215 plus shipping and the condenser is $21 plus shipping.... :jaw: I'm starting to think this guy is trying to take advantage of me...It'll be running with a Harley coil on it soon.... :auto-sportbike:

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