WH 1057 restore

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Another trick I learned to fix a badly stripped spark plug hole (beyond inserts) in an aluminum small engine head that uses a "normal" 14mm thread is to find someone capable of opening the hole up and tapping it for an 18mm plug. Get an NGK A-6 plug (or a Champion D-10 or Autolite 368/377, which I believe is the same size) and you're all set.

This doesn't work on some Wisconsin engines though, as they already have 18mm spark plug holes. :whistle:

[daemon2525 5]

Nope.... The ACR works just as it should. It is not stuck. Actually I was suprised how loose it was. I can flip it open to where it does not lift the valve.

My only idea left is that the spark plug insert was blocking the spark severly.

Now to replace the head and plug with the proper stuff. ( the spark was up inside a hole caused by the crappy insert). And I had the wrong plug in it. (JLM19), where the heck do you get H10?

Could it be that I put too much PAINT on it? All that I did was to wire brush the engine, one coat of rustoleum primer, and one coat of Red.

Could it be that it is out of time? I did not change the timing, but I am not sure that they correctly lined up to begin with. I am thinking that if I see the valves open/close and the ACR work like we said, that the timing must be right? No?

ANYWAY, I am still going to get a custom license plate to display on it.

It's gonna read IMAPOS

LLA

[sorekiwi 761]

I'd have a look at the ignition timing too. I havent seen it on a small engine but I've seen headers on a 4 cyl car engine glowing red hot when the ignition timing was off.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

OK, if your assumption that the cam shaft timing is correct, check your points - this sets the ignition time. If too far advanced you get heat.

Adjusting the carb is pretty easy. If there is one screw this is the main jet and you should set it at full RPM which IIRC is 3600 RPM. Turn the screw in till it start running rough and note the position, then screw it out till it runs rough. Set it midway between the two points.

If there are two one is for idle and one is the main. Once you know which is which you adjust them one at idle and one at full RPM using the same technique.

Also, note that the spark plug plays a significant role in engine cooling, drawing heat away from the head. Make sure you have the right plug (it is not the common J-8) .

Also, looking at your picture I *think* it is smaller than the ones I have seen on K301 (12 HP) engines. Smaller = hotter. What is the diameter?

Good luck :WRS:

[daemon2525 5]

Just bringing my post back up because I am not done with the thread yet.

Anyway, I cannot test anything until my E-bay purchase of a new head shows up in the mail.

I cannot start the tractor to test anything, but I have found that the helicoil was too long, then I stripped it in the Head. I had the wrong plug in it ( I knew that but did not have H10c and thought what diff could it make if I used j19lm). Then I rechecked the points that I thought I had checked and found them set at .011.

So I have a new/used head on order, Have the correct plug, and replaced the points and set them at .020.

So, do you think that i fixed it?

[Jim_M 178]

I think the correct point gap probably fixed it. A gap of .011 would advance the timing pretty far and make it run hot.

If you need any help let me know, I'm about 15 miles from you.

Jim

[daemon2525 5]

Well, I got the new Head and installed and set the point gap properly and I believe that it is running MUCH better. I have only ran it about 15 min. That would have been enough to get it hot before.

Jim M. I am now ready for you to come look for the final tune if you are sitll up for it.

I will PM my number.

[daemon2525 5]

Well, after a couple hours, I am very happy with the way that it runs.

The neighbor who is a carhead thinks that it sounds a little clanky in the bottom end, but I don't know what they should sound like. So I guess that I'll run it till it pukes.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

I take it that it still has the balancer gears installed?

And as far as the other problem goes.... "They" always say "timing is everything" :whistle:

[daemon2525 5]

Gonna try and add some pictures after I made TT's little gizmo for the front!

Thanks for your Support!

Larry in Indiana

[kj4kicks 151]

Gizmo looks great Larry ! Just like factory.

Nice looking machine from end to end!

[daemon2525 5]

Now to see if I can get any of this junk to work on it !

I am in need of a deck now.. I don't think that I can make this one work.

I would have to change the pully to a larger one. I am looking for a different deck.

This one is for sale if anyone close needs it. I bought it thinking that it was the correct one. :imstupid:

:whistle:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

I LIKE IT!

Now we have to round you up the correct drive belt guard.

(((((Perry))))) do you still have that one for a 1067? I think it might work.

[combatmp29r 27]

Larry thats anice group of toys I mean Implements you got there B)

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

The "front gizmo" looks fantastic. And you have a nice collection of implements also. And the tractor looks sharp. B)

[MaineDad 85]

Holy slot hitch! That's a find of implements...

Clean those attachments up too and you'll be set for years to come. Nice job on the restore too.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

:whistle: Well done.

Now time to get her to do some work!

:horseplay:

[Duff 206]

Great job, Larry!

...and nice "treasure trove" of attachments! Remember, even diamonds start out in the rough!

Duff :whistle:

[Stigian 1,234]

Nice work Larry, she's a beaut B)

[bluetuna08 0]

:group:

wow I am jelous of all those implements.

you are gonna have some fun!!!!

Great looking horse...is the horse a mudder B)

[daemon2525 5]

Now we have to round you up the correct drive belt guard.

(((((Perry))))) do you still have that one for a 1067? I think it might work.

Well, I hope Perry's Guard will work, Because I just bought it on E-bay.

#220256065909

BlueTuna.. If you mean whether it's gonna get used. YES IT IS!!!

It will never again look as good as it does now.

[eastside0434 0]

I have read all the posts,what was the final outcome? I am sure it as been fixed sounds like knowing the cause will be very helpful

[daemon2525 5]

Whoa!!    Someone replied to my 7 year old post!   I change my hobbies every decade or so.

The 1057 is still pulling all of my toys around the yard.  They just won't give up.

 

I can't remember the fix for the hot. I worked on it for a while and the problem went away.

 

Anyway, Hi to all of the guys on RedSquare!  I still drive my Wh tractors around and they work as hard as ever.

 

If you need me , you'll be more likely to find me on RFC... (RimfireCentral.com).

 

>22 shooting is my latest hobby. 

[newt 14]

hey guys, if anyone is still reading this post, the fix for your overheating, was the ign points gap too close, at .011".  your red hot muffle was because the ign timing was retarded, not advanced.  what happens with retarded ign, as in the spark happens after the piston passes tdc, and the piston is on its way down slightly.  this puts too much combustion heat too far down the cylinder, then some of the heat can be flowing out the exhaust port when the exhaust valve opens before bottom dead centre.  so when the point gap is too close, like you had it, the points cam takes longer to come around and open the points, therefore retarding the ign timing.  points gap too wide, (like say .030) lets the points cam crack the points sooner, making the ign advanced.

I just had this problem on a ford 460 motorhome engine I just rebuilt and set timing to my punch marks before I remove distributor.  my new comp cams  shaft was ground a little retarded so my timing was retarded too.  sitting inside with engine on hight idle to break in cam lobes, the header was getting red. (although it starts and runs fine)  I set timing with light and it was fine.

I worked in a machine shop engine rebuilder for all the 20 years out of high school,  and now I bought the equipment and doing it on my own.

about the points thing, my boss always said, It takes some thinking, but you have to get a picture in your head about how things are moving and the rotation and things like valve opening and points opening is a good example!

I hope this clears some confusion, and I hope you guys don't think im trying to be a know-it-all!

newt

to add some reading,  your timing retarded will also cause the fuel consumption, because the retarded combustion does not burn the charge efficiently at all, and with a big decrease in power