WH 1057 restore

[daemon2525 5]

I am new here but not new to forums in general.

I am restoring a 1057 and have no resources to speak of. I am having to learn everything as I go.

Anyway. The sand/prime/paint process went well, only to decide that the engine was kind of weak. So I replaced the piston/rings/rod/valves and all seems better... except.

It seems like the thing runs hot. Should the muffler get quite red when viewed in the darkening evening light? In bright sun, I do not notice, but as evening nears it is clear that the exhaust is VERY hot. It even makes the hood hotter than I would expect it to be. I honed the Cyl, adjusted the lash to .010 intake .020 exhaust.

Oh yes, for some reason it has a K301/12hp on it.

I'll have many questions as I proceed. Mostly want to get the engine correct first and then I have absolutley No attachments for the thing. WHen I got it it had a sears 3pt monkeyed onto the thing and a disc and culitvator. Should I put the sears back on? Look for a clevis? Buy things that will fit the slot hitch that is on it?

It is actually more together than I have pictures of.

[CasualObserver 3,406]

First, looks like a nice resto you've got going there. I really like your horse's new rear shoes... would you share a size and brand on them?

A red muffler is usually means it's running a little lean if I'm not mistaken. Some of the better mechanics will tell you for sure.

On your other things... slot hitch implements are getting more collectible and therefore more expensive. If you can find them reasonably... by all means get them. Otherwise, I'd look for a clevis hitch. It works with old as well as new attachments. I'd leave the Sears hitch for a Sears tractor.

[daemon2525 5]

I really hope for some good replies on the heat issue. I don't think that it could be that the Exhaust valve is not closing all of the way? Before the valve job, it would spit fire out of the exhaust and now it does not really have flames, it just seems VERY hot.

The tires are 23x8.50x12 Carlisle Tru-Power bought over the phone from www.millertire.com They were $70.00 each + $25.00 shipping.

Thanks for the reply.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

:WRS:

Sometimes a glowing muffler can be attributed to incorrect ignition timing too. Make sure the breaker points are gapped correctly, and/or set the ignition timing with a timing light - if possible.

There is also a slight possibilty that the camshaft might not be timed correctly. If you assembled the engine yourself, you should know if the marks were correctly aligned.

Since the exhaust pipe length is normally less than 8" long on the older tractors, it's not unusual for the combustion flame to travel out the exhaust port and cause a glow inside the muffler.

In most cases, glowing muffler baffles indicate an engine that's running the way these old engines should. Back when gasoline still contained lead (and was worth what you paid for it!), a white or beige-ish colored coating inside the exhaust meant the engine was running perfect. It was nothing to see fire coming out the muffler on even a Briggs 3hp push mower engine. (at night, of course )

I actually had a 1969 Raider 10 with an HH-100 Tecumseh engine that would have 6 inches of orange fire coming out of the exhaust the entire time it was being worked.

Looks like you're off to a great start, and I look forward to seeing more pictures of your progress!

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

:whistle: I also like your rear tires, they really look cool.

[Rollerman 290]

Good luck on the restore...but looks like you aready have a great start.

Hope you get your troubles worked out with the K301 too.

So which one is your sons favorite?

Oh & welcome to Red Square. :whistle:

[daemon2525 5]

Ha, Ha. I knew I'd get that if I posted the picture. Not my Suburban, and not my Son. LOL!!! It's the neighbors Sears, and a diff neighbors grandson.

The neighbor and I are having a brand bashing contest.!!! I'll be red, and He'll be Sears.

I have the 1057 nearly complete and will post more pictures this evening. ALong with my other two tractors, a 2002 Craftsman LT1000 and a 1985 Wheelhorse B115.

I am too old to have that kid as a son.... My son is actually in Iraq at the moment. Wish him well.

[daemon2525 5]

Hey Tickster, just noticed where you are from!!! I am in Fort Wayne, IN.

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Isn't Jim M from Ft Wayne too? :whistle:

[Rollerman 290]

Isn't Jim M from Ft Wayne too?

Your fast Jason...Jim M is in Ft Wayne....maybe he'll chime in?

So the old I'm in denial & it's really my neighbors Sears Custom... ...LOL

If it is indeed your neighbors Custom...it doesn't look bad....for a future scrap material.

We have a few members on the site here deployed or with family members deployed & wish them all a safe stay & speedy return home.

And also appreciate there efforts. :whistle:

[daemon2525 5]

More pictures.

My Niece on the Monster

And MY tractors. I have some scrap metal in there as well. Really it is the wifes!!

So it doesn't count against me.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Daemon, Nice looking tractor pal! and that lil one sitting on there doesn't look to bad herself! Nice looking youngin and I bet she's pretty proud of her Unc! This will engrain some lasting memories in her mind especially when she gets to drive it, if she hasn't allready!

Duke

[Jim_M 178]

Isn't Jim M from Ft Wayne too?

I am in Fort Wayne, so now there's 2 of us!

That's a pretty good looking 1057 you have there. If you're confident that the carb. is set correctly and not too lean then I would put a few hours on it, then pull the sparkplug and see what it looks like, if it has a white coating on it or looks like it's been really hot then you're running too lean. It's not really all that unusual for a fresh engine to run a little hot, everything is still tight and you have more friction to overcome.

What area do you live in? I'm southwest.

Jim

[daemon2525 5]

Jim,

I am not at all confident that the carb is set correctly. It seems to run OK. But I do not know what it is suppose to sound/run like. My other two tractors run much quiter and smoother as would be expected.

I live on the southeast of town, Actually about 5 or 6 miles outside of town towards Hoagland on Wayne Trace. Went to Hoagland days last weekend.

I bought the 1057 on Ebay watching closely that I bid on one close enough to go and get. Well I bought it from the Southwest part of town. Near the GM plant off of Aboite Rd.

Did I buy it from you? LOL!!!!!!!!

Oh and HORSEFIXER, I am watching WHeelhorse parts on Ebay from Niles.

Small world..

[Jim_M 178]

You didn't buy it from me, but I'm a little surprised that you snuck one away from me that was that close to home .

I grew up about 2 1/2 miles due east of Hoagland so I'm very familiar with the area and still have a few Wheel Horses stored out there. I graduated from Heritage in 1977. If you've lived there very long there's a pretty good chance that I know you!

I'll probably be out that way this weekend and would be glad to stop by and take a look at your tractor. I'll give you my opinion on whether it's running right or not, right or wrong, I always have an opinion .

Jim

[daemon2525 5]

Jim, I sent a PM.

[daemon2525 5]

ARGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! @#$@ !@#@( @#&^!#

Whew! Now I feel better. Thanks for listening...

[daemon2525 5]

Well I started it up again and ran for five minutes and the HOOD (not the head) was so hot that you could not touch it. Better check the plug as suggested.

When I got the thing it had a helicoil (or the like) in the plug hole. The neighbor said, "it will be fine, people do that all the time". Well the helicoil spins in it's hole and the plug will not come out. So I take off the head and look at all of the shavings that my spinning the helicoil in it's hole has fallen into the cylinder.

The helicoil was kinda long also. So long that it made the spark plug spark sit up inside a hole rather than stick out into the cylinder. That can't be good.

So I am now going to have to E-bay a new head. I don't mind the E-bay or price as much as the fact that I have to wait for 2 weeks to get the stupid thing.

Any FtWayne guys know of a small engine Junk yard?

Now my real question.... Is the exhaust valve suppose to open a little on the down side of the compression stroke? When I roll the engine over, The valves open far when they are suppose to. However, on the other stroke, the exhaust valve will open just a smidge. I have read about compression release. Is that what I am seeing. I have a notion to increase my valve lash number to make it not open. Is that letting fire out the exhaust and causing my problem?

I understand that y'all may not know. That is cool. But I feel much better typing this than sitting around waiting on a Cyl head.

This thing WILL run properly. I just may have double what the thing is worth in it.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

The exhaust valve lifting slightly off the seat is the ACR. Once the centrifugal force of the rotation of the camshaft increases enough to move the weight, the spoiler cam "finger" will return below the surface of the exhaust lobe on the camshaft.

You should be able to check the operation of the weight (make sure it moves freely) by removing the cam gear cover on the block. If it is sticking, it might be the cause of your problem. (although I have never seen one stuck )

One question: Do you have the cooling shroud on the cylinder head?

[daemon2525 5]

Yes, I have the covers on. Actually it looks like it has too much covers. It has a full size on the top (it covers the entire head) and one on each side. that covers the entire two sides. Th exhaust side is the only side that you can see.

Back to ign timing. When I had it apart. I looked at the timing marks on the cam/crank and thought that it might be one tooth off. However since I did not remove the cam or crank, I left it alone. It looked almost like it was a half of a tooth off and if I moved it that it would be a half tooth off the other way. So i Assumed that it was correct.

When I see the exhaust valve open (as in ACR) it is NOT open at TDC. It does not open until the piston starts back down. Is this correct or should it be open at TDC?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

The exhaust valve should "pop" open around .030 to .040" when the piston is about 2/3 of the way up the cylinder on the compression stroke.

[daemon2525 5]

That makes more sense that what I was seeing. They way I was seeing would not eliminate any compression.

Well it looks like the thing is coming apart again!!!!! I am not at home to check but I believe that it does not "pop" open until it is back on it way down.

I actually hope that the timing is off. If that would explain the heat issue.

I forgot to mention that it seems as though it uses a awful lot of fuel. I fill the big tank half full, drive around 15 / 20 miinute to test, and it need more fuel!

Now to figure out how to get the cam out.

ARGHH!!!

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Make sure you're turning it clockwise at the flywheel when checking the ACR.

The cam is held in by a through-pin that has to be driven out from the PTO side of the block - once the flywheel and bearing plate are removed.

I'm hoping you don't have to go through all of that work - so maybe Jim can get over there and help you figure it out without "busting it open". :WRS:

[daemon2525 5]

Let's leave this timing issue alone until I get home to check. As I think. I am not completely sure that I was turing the engine the right direction as I was checking.

That is important, yes? :imstupid:

[daemon2525 5]

Well, If I turn the thing the correct direction, then the exhaust valve opens just when it should.

Now I'll have to get the cam cover off and see if the ACR is stuck.

Oh, yeah. Don't anyone bid on K301 heads on E-bay for the next couple days, OK? :whistle: