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HorseFixer

WH 520-H Refresh & Rebuild

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ce318

Hey Duke, that is Skookum. Really has a nice tone. I am quite ancious to see it all put together with a up close POV viedeo with maybe a list of suppliers and modifications you have performed. I think that would go along way in assisting others to complete there bucket list. Awesome looking forward to your next segment.

Chris

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AMC RULES

Does sound much better Duke, would still like to hear them open headers though. :woohoo:

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sorekiwi

Bob, I'm not trying to be as ass here, but I wouldnt be putting all this unloaded time on that motor.

The rings need to have the motor loaded up in order to seat correctly. They need some loading to push them up against the walls of the bore, and running it unloaded for hours just isnt going to do it.

I run my rebuilt motors for about 20 minutes, at a fast idle till they are warm and then at varying engine speeds for about another 10 or 15 minutes. Then I let them cool completely and retorque the heads (stone cold).

Then I drive the tractor, and use the motor like it is going to be used in the future. I dont like to let them idle much until I think the rings are broken in, and I dont like to run them much unloaded until the rings are broken in. Failing to do that risks everything glazing up, as the parts tend to just polish each other instead of really lapping each other for a good mechanical seal.

Just my .02c.

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HorseFixer

Bob, I'm not trying to be as ass here, but I wouldnt be putting all this unloaded time on that motor.

The rings need to have the motor loaded up in order to seat correctly. They need some loading to push them up against the walls of the bore, and running it unloaded for hours just isnt going to do it.

I run my rebuilt motors for about 20 minutes, at a fast idle till they are warm and then at varying engine speeds for about another 10 or 15 minutes. Then I let them cool completely and retorque the heads (stone cold).

Then I drive the tractor, and use the motor like it is going to be used in the future. I dont like to let them idle much until I think the rings are broken in, and I dont like to run them much unloaded until the rings are broken in. Failing to do that risks everything glazing up, as the parts tend to just polish each other instead of really lapping each other for a good mechanical seal.

Just my .02c.

Mike I hear ya, and I do value your opinion tremendously. :bow-blue: On the running, I guess in a couple of the vids I have taken it doesnt look like I have run it hard TRUE Curing paint and so on. But the engine has had abut 4 hrs of run at 5/8 to 7/8 throttle, believe me I have worked it not with great loads like being used but running up the RPM's I am just about finished running it now until it goes on the tractor. So anyways :eusa-think: how in the H*ll ya think it sounds? :unsure:

~Duke

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sorekiwi

So anyways :eusa-think: how in the H*ll ya think it sounds? :unsure:

~Duke

Gotta love the sound of a K341 working on the governor, and the growl of an Onan!

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Wheel-N-It

Oh Man! That sounds great Duke. I Got to have one of those stack exhaust on the 520 I drug home yesterday if the onan motor is salvageable. The previous owner told me it was running when he parked it., so maybe theres hope. I sent you a PM last night regarding the pics. Have a good day:)

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HorseFixer

I Painted the Light Bar Yesterday with 3 Coats of Primer, then 3 Coats of Gloss Black. Today I used rubber discs and rubber mounted the Wheelen Strobe on the Light bar with Stainless Steel Hardware. I thought what would be a nice touch to the Light Bar would be to install Gold Resin Emblems on each side of the Bar. The Cab top which is now White will be painted Black also with special flex primer and paint designed for flexable plastics. Anyways how does the Emblem Look? I haven't went permanent yet. (Thanks Butch For The Edit). :whistle:

:thanks: ~Duke

:beer:

DSCN4492.jpg

DSCN4493.jpg

DSCN4505.jpg

DSCN4482.jpg

DSCN4494.jpg

DSCN4506.jpg

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Butch

I Painted the Light Bar 3 Coats of Primer, then 3 Coats of Gloss Black yesterday after 2 coats of primer. T

Is that new math?

I think the emblems look tacky!

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Jake Kuhn

Looks good duke,I like the logo. Is that one of those key chains glenn petitt makes? Jake

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HorseFixer

Looks good duke,I like the logo. Is that one of those key chains glenn petitt makes? Jake

Jake Yes they come from Glen Petitt :thumbs: But they are Resin Not Rubber like the Key Chains.

I Agree with Butch.... (the spelling teacher) I will Tack Weld them in place! :ychain:

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Sparky

Love the light bar all painted up Duke but I'm not diggin those horse head emblems on it.

But hell....I'll never see it from my house so do what makes ya smile pal!

Mike.........

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Butch

So tell me Duke, I'm dyin to know how many coats of primer you put on. Was it 5, 3 or 2?

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HorseFixer

So tell me Duke, I'm dyin to know how many coats of primer you put on. Was it 5, 3 or 2?

3 I figured it needed that many, So those Bright Lights wont scare the paint OFF! :jaw:

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Butch

So tell me Duke, I'm dyin to know how many coats of primer you put on. Was it 5, 3 or 2?

3 I figured it needed that many, So those Bright Lights wont scare the paint OFF! :jaw:

Ah, you edited the real post!! But it's still in my post!!

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kpinnc

Duke,

I don't want to hijack your thread or create discussions other than the rebuild. Forgive me if that happens.

The remote oil filter has been discussed at length before- so I'm sure there are several members who would like more information on it. I think it deserves a thread of it's own! If you have time, maybe you could make a separate thread with a larger diagram and part numbers/ suppliers, and have the admins "pin" the topic?

As you said, the oil filter location combined with the restricted airflow on the rear cylinder (belt guard) may allow heat to be trapped that would otherwise not be an issue. having a pinned topic might help alot of other folks (myself included) preserve those Onans as well.

Thanks!

Kevin

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kpinnc

I just now saw the other thread in the engines section on the remote oil filter.

Whoops!

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HorseFixer

Not a problem Mate :thumbs: I was trying to get some input on the remote filters in the Engine Section and thought I would also post it in my build section as it will be a nice enhancement for the Chucker. :)

Cheers ~Duke

:beer:

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HorseFixer

Today I broke down the tires off the Rims getting ready next weekend to take parts to My Sandblast buddy. Today I also got my

Xscorpian Amp / Voltage gauge in the mail. This will be used on the Snow Chucker when Powering up all the Accessories. :thumbs:

Cheers Duke

:beer:

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massey

Good information there Duke. It's amazing how little amps all those lights actually draw.

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HorseFixer

Well put in a good day yesterday, was at My Buddys Brians SandBlasting Shop. Brian is a master blaster and has been sandblasting for 25 years. He has done everything from bridges trucks down to the smallest items and everthing in between. As you will see by the MOVIE Below he gets the job done in short order. You can be to aggresive because doing body parts it will warp the metal from the heat of the sand hitting the metal, The nozzel has to be moving all the time to keep this from happening. After he got done blasting my part, he had other Items that needed blasting so I helped him move things around so he could get them done for his customers. Brian blasted a Dune Buggy frame and the guy picked it up last night at 10:00 p.m. Since we had squeezed my project into his schedual, we had to cover other Items that were in his paint booth, befor I could paint my stuff, It made for a long day and night and I got home at 4:00 a.m. this morning! :jaw: This Ole guy cant take the late nights like Used too, I need my beauty sleep! :eusa-whistle: In the last video clip notice the hole in the table. :eek: That table is over 2" thick and over time he blasted right through it! He had to turn it over and use the other side. :) There is a 2" airline that feeds his equipment that I piped from another building years ago, and he calls me when he needs a change or gets a new piece of equipment. His present compressor is an Ingersol Rand 100hp unit and it definatley gets the job done. Anyways its good to see some progress. :thumbs:

Cheers ~Duke

:beer:

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Martin

good video on the blasting duke!

hey im not surprised by the damage that blast media does. we constantly have to replace sections in some cabinets and wheelabrator machines with new stuff. we use armour plate. the mild steel just doesnt hold up.

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Hydro

For some of us(me) that was very educational. I have had it done but never seen how it was done. :text-thankyouyellow:

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farmer

Duke,

This suggestion may be going over the top, but I thought I'd put it to you anyway. Having gone to the trouble to remotely mount the oil filter, what about in its place, putting a small oil cooler. Like I said 'over the top' especially for your winter needs, but I'm thinking that maybe the extra oil capacity gained by relocating the filter may be offset by heat, as you've moved the filter out of the engines airflow reducing its cooling effect. I wonder if thats why onan designed it that way in the first place, or maybe they just ran out of room? :wacko:

After all if the cylinder cooling fins are kept clear there shouldn't be a problem overheating wise anyway. I used to own a 518 which I cut a hole in the belt guard... the airflow through it was amazing, makes me wonder why they put the fancy louvres in the top of the hood, not in the guard?

Anywho, I'm really enjoying your thread, keep the good stuff coming. :thumbs: :thumbs:

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wheelhorse656

Great work duke Keep it coming!! I wont be suprised when this machine is on next years calander!! :thumbs:

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DoctorHfuhruhurr

Since we had squeezed my project into his schedual, we had to cover other Items that were in his paint booth, befor I could paint my stuff, It made for a long day and night and I got home at 4:00 a.m. this morning! :jaw: This Ole guy cant take the late nights like Used too, I need my beauty sleep!

Be careful. If I recall correctly the long hours from another build was a contributing factor in your stroke.

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