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WH 520-H Refresh & Rebuild

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HELP! :angry-banghead: Well no good news! All I can get the fricken thing to do is puff a few times. I put my hand over the carb and she sucks and pulls fuel in and it sputters a bit but no start! pull the plugs and they are dry but have a bunch of fuel around top of carb. I will make a movie in a bit and post it up here maybe someone will have some suggestions.

~Duke

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Ok Its getting late Got the Movie Done Please Give Me Your Thoughts Fixin to Cook New Years Dinner

But Will be Cking back for your feedback.

Thanks Duke

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A couple of things spring to mind:

You dont say that you have checked for spark. An Onan will make a good spark even if you turn it by hand, just power up the coil and urn it by hand and look for the spark. There are TDC and ignition timing marks on the flywheel so when you see the spark, check the marks to make sure the trigger is timed right.

Instead of powering the ignition through the plug like you are doing, I would put the jumper directly to the poitive side of the coil. I dont remember if the 520 has its ignition feed wired through the oil pressure switch or not, jumping directly to the coil will bypass this if it does.

Looking at your picture of the valves while you were adjusting them I see a .05mm feeler guage. Did you set your inlet valves to .005" or .05mm??

You dont seem to have any means to check oil pressure set up on your engine. I would be at least setting up a lamp to operate off the oil pressure switch, and I would crank up oil pressure with the ignition off before firing the engine. A "proper" engine with pressure fed bearings will eat itself really quick running with no oil pressure, remember that on the Onan everything depends on the oil pump to deliver lube, even the one cam bearing that is splash lubricated is splashed with oil that is pumped to the top of the engine.

Did you look closely at the inlet manifold while the engine was apart? They are a little infamous for developing an air leak between the two halves, on mine I drilled out the rivets, drilled and tapped for (I think) 6-32 screws, and resealed it.

Also isnt there some sort of vacuum fitting on the manifold? I dont remember what it is for, is yours blocked off or hooked up to whatever it is suppossed to hook up to?

Thats all I got right now.

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Just plain mechanics but I think of 2 things that come to mind, the first one mentioned "are we getting spark", you can pull a plug wire off and see if there's spark or get for $5 from harbor Freight a thing that shows spark, it goes between the plug and the wire. The second thing is that you are using starter fluid but not really letting it get to the plugs, you are forcing closed the throttle plate when you spray, it won't get in the system that way, I suggest before you spray open the throttle and then you can close it if you like. I don't know if I wouldn't get a can of gas and a hose up to the fuel pump.... Let's see that Onan running, you did a great job.....

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I always test spark by having one of my not so bright friends hold the spark plug while I turn it over if there available. Always helps for a good laugh... :laughing-rofl: Until thy are chasing you and screaming at you :deadhorse: . I find it quicker to just hold the spark plug with a pair of insulated pliers and then old it just about a metal surface, if its has spark it will jump. But as others have said you could just buy the spark tester!

Also I agree with the 12v directly to the coil! Also do not use your battery charger for this... find a battery, take one from another tractor, or pull one up a couple feet away... Just my opinion... First thing that came into my head was the intake manifold leaking also... But I didn't know if you had resealed it or not.

Goodluck!

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Bob,

First hook a battery up and use the charger to boost the battery, and use a spark tester while your turning it over to test for spark with at least one plug installed to complete the circut. If no spark the pickup most likely failed, if you spun the motor with no plugs installed and juice to ingnition its possible the pickup failed.

I'm thinkin you don't have enough juice with only the charger.

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I haven't looked at my 416 but should the wire from the condenser go to the positive side of the coil? I thought that the condenser went on the negative side? Maybe something to double check.

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I haven't looked at my 416 but should the wire from the condenser go to the positive side of the coil? I thought that the condenser went on the negative side? Maybe something to double check.

That one is covered in the parallel thread in the "Engines" section Karl.

On the electronic Ignition Onans the condenser is on the positive terminal of the coil.

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Glad to hear you got it going duke,Now we need to see it blowing some snow!

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Runs great Duke, and look Mom, no smoke!

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Glad to hear you got it going duke,Now we need to see it blowing some snow!

Thanks Guys, Jake aint that the truth! :thumbs: I dont think it will be this year tho :sad: I have lots to do yet on the tractor itself along with lots of groceries and up grades to hang on it.

I have a question tho for anyone that has a 520-H..... Looking down at the hood on the muffler side of the 520 Hook a Tape measure on the lip of the hood to the tip of the Exhaust Outlet, what is that measurement? :dunno: Also how far it is from the front of the exhaust stub that comes outta the muff to the front part of the hood, The reason I ask is, I need to build and exhaust manifold and these dimensions can get me started without me having the engine mounted in the tractor. I have included a drawing showing the dimensions I need. Wouldnt mind having a few as I can do an average.

:thanks:

~Duke

post-252-0-01209300-1325793484_thumb.jpg

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A = 1-1/8"

B = 1/2"

WoW Craig I was fixin to call you out on those Diminsions But after looking at this TURD of a tractor picture You are Right ON! :bow-blue: Thanks I liked ya! :)

~Duke

:beer: <<<< Apple Juice :thumbs:

DSCN3758-1.jpg

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Okay today I am working on the Exhaust. I dont want to buck up my Ole Muff because just in case I ever get errr... I mean MJ ever gets rid of the Chucker when I bite the dust then someone may want the Ole Muff to be original. :dunno: I have picked up some old onan pipe parts but that are 1" ID and need to expand them to slip over the other pipes so I can weld them in place. I just got on Harbor Freights site and typed in keyword Exhaust and found an expander but its for 1 1/8 pipe I called and asked the guys I says doode can you tell me if that's ID or OD PLEASE? :scratchhead: the guy acts like I'm putting him out and says lemme go check. He wasnt off the phone very long and he comes back on and says no it measures 1 1/8 on the tool so it wont go in. :sad: So I think I'm going over there and thump errr I mean see if I can look at that tool and others and something else that might SWAG <<< a Term us pipefitters use on copper tubbing to try and find something to expand the pipe. If any of you guys know of something or have an Idea that will work post it here and send me a PM it will E-Mail it to me on my cell phone and while Im shopping It may help in the selection of the tool I need. :thumbs:

:thanks: ~Duke

expander.jpg

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Try a local muffler shop.

Jim, I did two of them. but they dont have nothing that small :dunno: Kelly thats a thought :scratchead: But I think im now on the right track. What I did was buy one of those tools and ground down all the flutes till I got it under 1" I started to expand it and CRACK no good just exactly what the doodes that reviewed it on HF website. :angry: and they broke theirs right outta the box. So how did I get it expanded? I have about 10 different ball peen hammers I took the ball end and put it up to the pipe I wanted to expand and pounded it in the pipe and kept wallering it out then would go to the next size up. I now have the design I am going with. I took some measurements off the Chrome Oil Fill tube this will be my refrence point where the exhaust stack shold turn up, The rear cyilnders exhaust pipe will run fwd and be coupled to a 1 1/4 to a 1 5/8 adapter and will slip into a 1 3/4 pipe. this pipe will run forward past and will have the front cylinders exhaust "Yed" into it. Immediatley after the front cylinders connection the pipe will elbow up and be connected to the MUFF here is how it will be roughted, but I need the 1 3/4" pipe bent into an. elbow. This will all be supported by an angle bracket off the block same as the original exhaust. Here are some pics. :thumbs:

~Duke

:beer:

DSCN4351.jpg

DSCN4355.jpg

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DSCN4358.jpg

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Lookin good Duke, great job on the engine! :thumbs: keep the pics coming.

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Thanks Denny, :thumbs:

Today I got my Wheelen Responder LP Led mini lightbar Strobe. As I mentioned this Chucker will have many more features than the Old chucker. Here is a comparison video of between the wheelen and Ecco Quad flash strobe.

~Duke

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Man, I bet your neighbors are gonna love seeing those 34 different flash patterns on their bedroom walls at night. :no: :no: :no:

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All these years of plowing my driveway without a light bar. What was I thinking? I'm probably lucky to still be alive!

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