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HorseFixer

WH 520-H Refresh & Rebuild

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HorseFixer

Thanks Craig & Tim :handgestures-thumbupright: Craig dont tempt me! :eusa-whistle: I do have a futaba 7 channel raidio I used for remote control airplanes, :dance:

Anyways worked on the lights tonight. The nice thing about these LED Lights I ordered last year is they have all Stainless Steel Bolts and hardware. When I bolt them down on the roof I want the roof to be sealed around all mounting bolts and electrical cable. How I achieved this was after I did a layout on the roof that has 3 Ribs, I used a gromet and cut it in half and would use that along with an O Ring to seal between the bolt and top of the Stainless Steel LED Light Bracket hole. Underneath the bracket I used neopreme rubber and sealed the bracket to the cab roof. I used rubber grommets through the roof and a dab of urethane sealant on the cables as there pulled through the last 1/4" just to be sure. Hear are some pics of the install. And movie at the end.

Cheers :beer: ~Duke

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VIDEO BELOW

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Sparky

Nice and bright pal!! I bet yer neighbors will have to close their living room curtains at night to keep watching TV if your out doing snow removal after sundown with those light going full tilt.

Mike...............

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bowtiebutler956

:scared-eek: Just what every :wh: needs, Stadium Lights! :text-datsphatyo: Very Nice! :thumbs:

Matt :flags-texas:

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dbartlett1958

I am very intrigued by your use of ceiling space in your garage. That is what I would call creative use of space.

The Snow Chucker is awesome. Quite an inpiration for many of us in snow country.

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Stigian

Nice work as ever Duke, the black roof really suits it :handgestures-thumbup:

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Wheelbearing

Duke, have you ever thought of using an oil cooler with a fan to heat the inside of the cab? I've seen coolant setups in deeres that heat the cab that way, but never an oil cooler one. Since you already have the remote oil filter anyways. Northerntool sells a coolant type. Wonder if you could getaway with running oil through it. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_21785_21785

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HorseFixer

Nice and bright pal!! I bet yer neighbors will have to close their living room curtains at night to keep watching TV if your out doing snow removal after sundown with those light going full tilt.

Mike...............

Well I dont think I gotta worry about that the Gal next to the RV needs to wash her windows to see any light! :hilarious:

:scared-eek: Just what every :wh: needs, Stadium Lights! :text-datsphatyo: Very Nice! :thumbs:

Matt :flags-texas:

Now Matt that's sume funny chit right there!

I am very intrigued by your use of ceiling space in your garage. That is what I would call creative use of space.

The Snow Chucker is awesome. Quite an inpiration for many of us in snow country.

Thanks! ya know i had to hang stuff on the ceiling I have too much stuff. Yangotta do what ya gotta do sometimes. :eusa-whistle:

Nice work as ever Duke, the black roof really suits it :handgestures-thumbup:

Thanks Stig, comming from a Craftsman like you it means alot. :thumbs:

Duke, have you ever thought of using an oil cooler with a fan to heat the inside of the cab? I've seen coolant setups in deeres that heat the cab that way, but never an oil cooler one. Since you already have the remote oil filter anyways. Northerntool sells a coolant type. Wonder if you could getaway with running oil through it. http://www.northernt...uct_21785_21785

Ya know I thought about doing something like that.. And I was thinking about something like a heater core. The heat off the engines rear cylinder is awesome. From what everyone says the 520's heat just babout runs ya outta there. My garage is kept at 45 deg all winter so the tractor isnt like its freezin inside when I start. what I was thinking about doing if needed was put louvers in the belt gaurd facing forward outside the cab this would push the heat outside. Then what I was going to do inside the cab was have a set of louvers facing twords the rear. They would be spaced apart and in between have a piece of metal that would slide in a track that would blank off the air in the cab or outside to direct the heat in or out of the cab. Now if a guy really wanted to be slick is put a thermostat in the cab to control an actuator motor that would work the slide shutter to maintain Temperature. What scares me about an oil cooler would be the exsessive length of oil line, would that cause restriction and a drop in oil pressure or volume or rate of flow. :dunno:

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HorseFixer

Tonight I Mounted the Jensen Speakers in the cab and was able to use the Light Bar bolts for the speaker brackets this prevented drilling more holes in the Cab! :handgestures-thumbupright: The speakers are overhead and out of the way and close to my knogin So's I can blast my eardrums out so I dont hafta hear the ONAN! :hilarious: I also mounted the Rear Lights. I ran into a snaffooooo :no: I purchased a Suicide Knob from Glen Jeri and when I installed it I noticed slop in the wheel My JB welded flange bushing that was wollered out didnt hold up and broke loose. Now the whole steering columb has to come out and I hafta replace the flange bushing to make it right. :eusa-think: I have ordered a Garlock 3/4 ID X 7/8 OD X 1" long X 1 1/8 OD Flange Steel Teflon Impregnated bushing. I will Tig weld it in place but will have a piece of Cold Shaft inserted in the bushing to keep it cool when I weld the flange to the steel steering columb support. Dang It!!! thats all I Needed, this is prolly gonna take a few days of work And is quite a job with all those linkage pins that has to come out to remove the Dash! :tools-wrench: Well its gotta be tight or it aint RIGHT! I prolly should have done it to begin with but oh well. :eusa-think: ~Duke

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dclarke

Lookin good Duke. :thumbs: I like the view through the window of that cab door! :eusa-whistle:

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HorseFixer

Lookin good Duke. :thumbs: I like the view through the window of that cab door! :eusa-whistle:

Denny, Yep thats not bad but I have a couple more views in the back of the garage of some staff members I need to show you! :wicked:

Well tonight I got after the steering wheel slop problem. The Taco Bushing they put in these things around the steering wheel shaft bis flimsey not long enough for support and also is cheapley pressed in and when it comes loose it wollers out gets loose there and also around shaft. The Flange bushing I got from Detroit Ball Bearing was flimsey also so what I did was use 2 3/4" Collars and welded one on each side giving over twice the thickness and support. Steering shaft is tight now! :handgestures-thumbup: Its alot of work but Im too far along to do a crappy job now and not fis something right, which is what I should have done the first time. :eusa-whistle: Heres some pics.

~Duke

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312Hydro

Looks like a solid fix. :handgestures-thumbupright: :handgestures-thumbupright:

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gomer gump

it,s nice to stay original with the motors that,s the way to go but i,ll say i put briggs vanguard motor,s in 2 of my 520h an a honda in 1 of the others briggs was 23 hp honda 24 hp both run real smooth hondas real quiet briggs sounds like old koler 12 hp both have lots of power . the honda leaves you very little hand room to work on around motor when installed . the briggs gives you lots of space and built lighter better i think if your going to repower . honda seems to start easier but thats not a problem . i try to stay original on all my 9 horses bought these 520,s w/no motor rebuilt them from frame up . the hondas an briggs are costly 1500 to 1700 depends where you go . and the wireing dosent match the 520h wire harness 9 pin plug had to hard wire all 3 motors which was pretty easy just took time to do an alot a schematic know how. bought them from sm eng ware hs dunkirk, in. i will say the battery,s haven,t went down 3 yrs now so the new mts charging system seems to work pretty good. never had to jump start them yet even after sittin for awhile maybe got lucky .original is always the way to go if you can.

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HorseFixer

Well the steering fix worked out great and it is tighter than Ole D*ck's Hatband. :eek: I plan on making an Aluminum dash to mount the gauges stereo, Amp Gauge and the control box and other goodies. :dance: I’m thinking of covering it in some kind of black leather type material. What I am working on now is the overhead wiring. There is nothing I hate seeing more than is a bunch of exposed wires. :crying-yellow: What I did on the Ole C-120 Snow Chucker was to use plastic Track Molding to conceal all the wires. That worked out pretty well so I decided to do the same thing. :tools-wrench: Since I painted the top black and Track Molding comes in white or beige In this case white I painted it with the same Krylon fusion black paint I used on the cab top. What I did was cut all the track molding to fit first and then painted it. As you can see by the pictures in conceals the wiring very well. I also went by an electrician friend of mines shop and he gave me a bunch of colored THHN 14ga 12 ga wire to wire everything. I got busy and drew up a schematic of my cabs control wiring. I will also be taking the tractor schematic and update it with any changes that I have done. The next few days and weekend I have my work cut out for me. :hide: no doubt I will be seeing wires in my sleep! :jaw: Anyway here are some pics.

Cheers :beer: ~Duke

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Ken B

I know what Duke wants for Christmas.... SNOW. And lots of it! Three house's down, where you'll be dumping all of yer snow, they ain't gonna like you. :ychain:

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bowtiebutler956

Very nice, clean work Duke! :thumbs:

Matt :flags-texas:

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HorseFixer

Thanks Guys :handgestures-thumbupright: Me wanting snow for X-Mas????? Well I hope I aint gotta wait that long!

This Next Section is Called........

Slip Into My CockPit! :wicked:

So I got busy and started to install "THE STUFF" as we will call it, But the problem is My stuff had no place to mount to so I made a dash to mount all my stuff on. This dash is made of aluminum with a alumnum angle for support and to mount the dash to the cab frame work. I used a black leather looking material I purchased from Joanns Fabrics. I then cut the dash down to my liking laid out the gauges and drilled mounting holes. I then applied spray adhesive and went to work on laying down the black leather material.

Here are some pics what ya think? :dunno:

Cheers :beer: ~Duke

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Jake Kuhn

:bow-blue: :bow-blue: :bow-blue: :bow-blue: :bow-blue:

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bowtiebutler956

Thats got to be the baddest snow chucker around, and the way you have it set up Duke, your going to go around your neigborhood chucking everyones snow, just for fun!! :ROTF: Very nice work! :text-datsphatyo:

Matt :flags-texas:

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MalMac

Looks like you forgot the BAT phone. Other than that your all set. No wait! Wheres the cup holder for the JUICE!

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Terry M

Very Awesome Duke!!! :handgestures-thumbupright::bow-blue: Love the lights. Can't wait to see it in action!!!

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HorseFixer

Thanks, :handgestures-thumbupright:

Tim, well I do want a cup holder just havent found one cheap enough yet, I will prolly hafta spend the 30 buckaroos. Problem is I can just see my stainless steel mug flying on the ground and then the chucker eatin it or running it over. :eek: Well today I ran so much wire the electrical Inspector came by and sited me for not having a PERMIT! :jaw: Then the Local Electrical Union 153 Filed a Grievence cause I wasnt a Journeyman. :confusion-shrug: I pointed over over in the corner at SLUGGO and they left! :eusa-whistle: Anyways I got all the overhead work done plus I had forgot about something I needed to do and the XScorpian inline Amp Gauge has a small ground wire out the bottom that needs to be grounded for it to display. The problem is you dont want it grounded all the time only while she is running or it will suck the Bat till its dead. :eusa-think: So I installed a small 12V relay that was triggered off the ignition swith with energizes the coil which closes a set of contacts that feeds it a ground. That solved that problem. :handgestures-thumbup: I was able to squeeze all 8 cundutors in a 1/2 black smurff tubing and the track molding has double sided tape and I drilled pop rivited the track molding just to be sure it stays in place. I cave each rivit a dab of clear urethane sealant and while I was out it I did the same to all the overhead light wires that enter the cab through grommets in the cab. everything should be weather tight now.

I replaced The Cheap Azz windshield wiper arm and had to fabricate a shorten the arm as it is a 1/4 clamp that goes around the motor shaft. But the neat thing is this wiper arm comes with a little rubber tube and spray nozzel :dance: Yep I got an Idea on how nice it would be to have windshield washer fluid when Im in the heat of battle. :wicked: So I picked up a small coolant overflow tank and a winshield wiper pump kit. And get this..... The Jug will be mounted on the frony Cyl head tin work and I am thinking this will heat the fluid a bit touching the Tin. I know what ya may be thinking it may melt the tank. Well I dont think so. Take a foam or plastic cup fill it with water and take a flame from a cig lighter and it dont do jack diddley. I think it will be fine. Here is some pics of my madness.

~Duke

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MalMac

Watch out spraying any warm liquid on a cold windshield. I know it's safety glass butt just how warm will the fluid get compared to how cold that widow gets. It won't quite be like your car, even though you will have some form of heat in there. When you take it out of your shop at 45 deg. That window will cool off quick compared to your wiper fluid. Anyway just a thought. If it goes bad we can always get you another widow.

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HorseFixer

Tim, Years ago I was out brooming off the vehicles as they were left out all night and then started scraping my window and MJ came outside with a couple big cups of warm water and threw them on her windshied and started her car. I told her that she shouldn't do that cause the window will crack! :eek: That was 30 years ago and she's been doing it ever since with no ill effects. :eusa-think: Im not sayin it can or cant, but I also think of all the car washes I see running in the middle of winter and I never see them have cracked windows. :dunno: I will be carefull. :text-thankyouyellow:

Well as I said Ive been wiring. Yesterday I worked on the control box for the chucker. Tonight I did alot of wiring and Installed it I think it turned out pretty good. :) I took it for a spin when it was dark and my neighbor Dave accross the street lowered his blinds when I turned on the strobe and hit him with all 4 front lights. :jaw: All I can say is they must be working. :eusa-whistle: Next will be the chute control wires and the windshield washer setup. Terry did a super job on the Control Box Decal. I added the right lower Square switch which is the washer fluid button after the fact but being its close to the wiper switch it all coincides. Heres some Pics.

~Duke

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MalMac

Looking good Duke, very impressive. There going to be enough from for you in there when your done? But seriously looks great. Just kinda curious, what kinda of total amp draw do you have when everything will be on? I know you have done your home work just wondering is all.

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HorseFixer

Just kinda curious, what kinda of total amp draw do you have when everything will be on? I know you have done your home work just wondering is all.

Thanks Tim, Well I hooked up everything with all 6 LED Lights on 4 front and 2 rears, Wheelen Strobe, Windshield wiper, Radio on, Cab fan on, Im pulling 16 amps peak. The Actuator Motors pull 4 amps each but intermittantly and usually 1 at a time. Thats the nice thing having an inline amp gauge, you can see exactly what your useing. :handgestures-thumbupright: I will most likely do the stator upgrade from stock 25 amps to 35 amps and new matching voltage regulator because the windshield heater defroster pulls 9 amps. :eek: the tractor alone pulls 2.6 amps and that would be the instrument lights and engine coil. :eusa-think: Oh and the Tractors Stock headlights....... There getting changed to Par 36 LED's too those damn things pull 4.5 amps ea for a total of 9 amps! :jaw:

~Duke

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