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stevasaurus

3 SPEED #5003 RJ 58-59 rebuild

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Steve, you did check fluid levels before starting? :wh:

:help:

Sure did John...takes 1 qt of 90W. That is the reason for giving it a test run...to get the oil circulating and into the bearings...and to check for leaks. I do not have an RJ to bolt it back into to check it out...and did not want to store it without running it for some time in all gears. I have a 5025 that I need to do the same thing to. :dunno:

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Steve,

Attach a couple of pulleys and belts from the axles to the front wheels and have all-wheel-drive. :dunno:

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Nice idea on the carrage bolt tool, that was the most time consuming part of my rebuild. A zip lock bag of crushed ice on it for a while helps get them out, as well. I couldn't get the last video to come up, but nice job. Your carrage bolt worked a hole lot better than the flat screwdriver that I heated and bent and attempted to temper, long story and process. :dunno:

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Thanks Terry. As far as the last video...it seems that the Forumer thingy takes a little while to load sometimes. Try again and give it some time...it is just me running it through the gears and basically giving the transmission a chance to lube up properly and make sure it was running OK before I store it. Nice to be able to run it before you put it back into a horse though... I have taken them back apart a couple of times because something just did not seem right...saves a ton of time and headache. :dunno: Thanks

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I could watch the video, this time. Neat little set up you have there. You have done a good job on this post, good information for future rebuilds. I jumped right in on mine, with only a few people for support, had this been on here, at the time, it would have been a blessing. You've done good Steve. :dunno:

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Steve, I really Like these videos!!! Just watched it and love your testing set-up. :handgestures-thumbupright: It will make fixing one of these a lot easier. Thanks again :bow-blue:

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Really neat But if you dont mind I have something I do on everyone of these

I rebuild I take the axle shafts and put a new roll pin hole in the other end and

turn the axles end for end this gives your outer bearings and seals a fairly new

surface to run on. If this makes any sence to you. If I still had a milling machine

I would just cut new woodruff key slots and make new shafts but this works just

about as well. My old shafts have not been the very best on the outer end.

Jim In TEXAS

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Here is a short video concerning the replacement differential that Wheel Horse sent out. It has the bolted on bull gear to the differential housing...you may not have one, but they are out there...I know of 2 now and it makes a difference how you put the pinions in...click on the picture.

 

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SUBURBANS & RJ 58/59 TRANSMISSION CROSS OVER CHART FOR WH #5003 and #5010 TRANSMISSIONS

DESCRIPTION..............................................................WH #......................VENDOR..........QUANTITY...........SIZE

BRONZE BEARING (AXLE)..........................................1503.......................CB-1618-12..........2..................1" X 1 1/8" X 1 1/2"

BRONZE BEARING (DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING)..........1517.......................CB-2224-14..........2..................1 3/8" X 1 1/2" X 1 7/16"

INPUT SHAFT & OUT END OF BRAKE SHAFT.............1519........................S8K ground..........4..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 5/16"

CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT & 11/44 GEAR BASE............1502........................NICE 412-35........3..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 3/8"

INPUT GEAR NEEDLE BEARING.................................1518........................B-108...................1..................5/8" X 15/16" X 1/2"

BRONZE BEARINGS (CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT............1504.......................EP-1214-12..........2..................3/4" X 7/8" X 3/4"

BRAKE SHAFT (NEEDLE) IF YOU HAVE THIS............1508.......................B-1212.................1..................3/4" X 1" X 3/4"

SEALS AXLE (FROM TORO ONLY)..(CAP)...................1257.......................83-2840...............2

SEALS INPUT SHAFT & BRAKE SHAFT (BALL BRNG)..1234......................741643 timken......2

SEAL BRAKE SHAFT (IF NEEDLE BRNG).....................1303......................7410 skf................1

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Thanks for the video Steve, that's good to know.... I like the bearing and seal chart too, think I'll print a copy of that and put in in my notes. Well done!

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hi i have to rebuild the same one but i cant get the video can you help me

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Posted (edited)

this is going to be a useful thread for me and Ewan.

 

his RJ has been full of water for 25 years and all 6 bearings are seized. It's in a rough shape...

 

IMG_4051.thumb.JPG.65f24ca7a7fbae99775e7e652a915ff9.JPG

 

watch this space!

 

thanks Steve :D

Edited by meadowfield
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Well we got it rebuilt... it's a tight fit! 

 

Just waiting for ewan to post an update

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Really great to see members digging these threads out of the cellar and using them! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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All of the pictures and videos disappeared last Friday, June 30 when photobucket decided to hold everybody hostage for 3rd party usage.  I spent Saturday and Sunday replacing everything right off of my computer and You-tube.  :)

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:greetings-clapyellow:   Dino...   

Image result for godzilla gif

  

                                             :text-thankyoublue::text-thankyoublue::text-thankyoublue:

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    • By stevasaurus
      My intent here is to show lots of pictures so if anyone is rebuilding one of these or some of the others...you can do it without fear and I am adding some very helpful information. I had a post that lead up to this that has some information in it also, and while it overlaps, I wanted to do the rebuild separate. This post is meant to be used with the manual...the pictures help explain better then the pictures in the manual.

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      I found a good assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 sockets that made fair to good arbors for pounding out and tapping in most of the bearings and seals.


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    • By stevasaurus
      I finally got a chance to rebuild a transmission with a hi/low mechanism.  This is a 6 speed #5060 transmission with the 10 pinion limited slip differential.  Notice the brake shaft comes out the hole closest to the axle housing.  The 8 speeds brake shaft comes out of the cluster shaft hole.  I did a series of videos for this thread along with some pictures.  The videos are split up between different phases of rebuilding...ie...the differential, the hi/low shift mechanism, the rest of the gears 1 & 2 (my batteries died in the camera).  Most of the information will be in the videos...be advised that I did some struggling while doing these videos and I left them as is because it is not always easy.    Hope this helps you guys.
       
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