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stevasaurus

3 SPEED #5003 RJ 58-59 rebuild

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I got this 5003 transmission from TomWH1971 2 months ago and decided to do an instructional thread on tearing it down and putting it back together. Hope this helps a lot of the members. Here is what I started with, and one of the hubs was one that we all fear...it was stuck.
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I got into a conversation with John (Walfish) and VinceRJ about which trans I really had (either the 5003 or the 5010) and it ends up I had the 5003. One of the differences is where the break pad bolts on the case. (courtesy of Walfish). These pictures show a 5010...the attachment for the brake pad is higher and at a 45 degree angle rather then at a 90 degree angle. There is some internal differences, but the two transmissions are basically the same as far as this thread is concerned as an instructional devise. Thanks John and Vince...
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At this point, I am just going to show some pictures of cleaning up the trans, and what it looks like inside. The 2 videos at the end will show how it all goes back together.
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When taking it apart...you want the brake shaft side up...the input side down.

Shot with the case off and the differential still in place. I took the differential apart to get the axle out with the stuck hub still attached...made a hub puller...which worked fantastic. :thumbs:
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This shot kind of shows the reverse idler and the fork shafts...which I did not take apart. They were fine and the roll pins to get them apart are not easy to get at. Sorry...I cheated here. :hide:
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Picture of the parts that make up the differential.
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Picture of the rest of the parts that make up the transmission. All of the parts here and above will be named and explained in the following videos at the end of the post.
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Three pictures of the trans together...what a difference from when I started.
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I did 2 videos...1 of the differential...and 1 of the rest of the transmission. Just click on the video to view.

 

 

 


I did not have to replace any bearings, but I can find the numbers and post them later. I did replace the 4 seals... :omg: almost $50..00. The input and brake shaft seals are Timkin #471643...around $7.00 for both. The axle seals (available only from Toro) Part # 83-2840 were $18.94 apiece. The gaskets for the transmission sides are no longer available...you have to either make your own, or use something like "Yamahabond #4"...if you decide to use the bond stuff...just make sure it cures before you put the oil in it...usually 24 to 48 hours. :thumbs: Hope this thread can help many members. :thanks::wh::thumbs:

 

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:thumbs2: Great Job Steve!!! And to think I was watchin and waiting for you to Smack your thumb putting that differential Back together!!!! :banghead:

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Hey Steve,

For some reason when you edit a post, the video links no longer work. You will have to cut the old ones and paste the new ones back in. (edit the same exact string back into the same spot) As long as you don't edit after the video link is posted again, they will work. I'm not sure what happens to video links when you edit but this is how you can fix it with out adding another post.

Does this make sense?????

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really enjoyed watching them vids steve, i think im ready to do my first trans. :thumbs2:

enjoyed the videos on the later trans build you did in the past as well......

i think my first will be the 8 speed i picked up from indy last weekend.....

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really enjoyed watching them vids steve, i think im ready to do my first trans. :banghead:

enjoyed the videos on the later trans build you did in the past as well......

i think my first will be the 8 speed i picked up from indy last weekend.....

Is it just me that can't watch the videos :thumbs2:

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Nice job Steve, these videos are really good. :thumbs2:

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really enjoyed watching them vids steve, i think im ready to do my first trans. :thumbs2:

enjoyed the videos on the later trans build you did in the past as well......

i think my first will be the 8 speed i picked up from indy

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I can see them now. Before they would pop up and say the action could not be completed :thumbs2:

I had this happen to mine after I edited the post

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Looks good Steve, those roll pins for the shift forks and reverse idler gear are not as tuff as they look. I make my own side cover gaskets with a little grey Permatex on both sides. Torque the side bolts to 12 to 14 foot pounds. I haven't had a leak in any one of the 5003s I've gone through. :thumbs2:

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Thanks you guys...you are a big part of why I try to do this...it is great to know you have good people behind you. :thumbs2::banghead::banghead:

Trans does look good though...ahhh?

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good videos, almost makes me feel like an expert and I don't even have one of those to take apart :thumbs2:

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Great timing! I have one apart right now. Very usefull.....thanks for the help. :thumbs2:

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Nice job Steve !! I plan on pulling my 400 tranny apart over the winter as 3rd gear is shot and keeps popping out. I have a bunch of NOS tranny gears/bearings and seals that I plan on using. :banghead: Thanks for taking the time to video it. I do not have the patience to video the work I do (most of the time I would not you all to see it :thumbs2::banghead: ).

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Good Job pal :banghead: Will hafta refer back to these when I Do mine. :thumbs2: By the way Yer not useing The Dukes apple juice for degreaser are you? :D That Red Bone Hound in that Pic looks like he may have Snuck Some! :thumbs: Anyway take care this evening may call you and cheer you up after Indiana whips that Illinois Butt. :banghead:

~Duke

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In this photo, you can see that 2 of the threaded hooby-doobys are broke. Was trying a few ideas to see if this casting could be saved.

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JoeBob gave me the idea of cutting a strip of steel to catch both of the broken parts, drill and tap, and then weld it up. This is what came out. I think it is stronger then what was there. It is not in the way of the gears, and if I seal the bolt hole on the side plate with YamahaBond #4...I think this will work great.

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I also needed a tool to remove the bearings from their sockets in the side plates. I came up with an 8" Carriage bolt that I ground to fit through the bearing and slip under it to pry it up. Here is a short video of how it works. :thumbs2:

Click on the video to play.

 

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Steveasaurus strikes again. Good idea on the uhh...ummm.uhhh...carriage bolt. :thumbs2:

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That last video was pretty ... uh, uh, uhmmmm ... good! We should title it "Tool on Tools". :banghead: :thumbs2:

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Steve,

We are going to have to rename you, "Rube Goldbergasaurus".

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Check out this video...I was able to tie it down and run it through the gears...finished product. Thanks for checking all this out. :dunno: Just click on the video.

 

 

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Steve, you did check fluid levels before starting? :dunno:

:wh:

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    • By stevasaurus
      My intent here is to show lots of pictures so if anyone is rebuilding one of these or some of the others...you can do it without fear and I am adding some very helpful information. I had a post that lead up to this that has some information in it also, and while it overlaps, I wanted to do the rebuild separate. This post is meant to be used with the manual...the pictures help explain better then the pictures in the manual.

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