Problem Child

[StWeiler 6]

Just rescued a horse from the pasture. I believe it to be a C100 Auto????

Model 10475 8

Serial 93601 3

Kohler is a K241S

Anyone point me in the reference guide for this?

Issues I've noticed thus far:

Throttle cable linkage missing (anyone have a diagram?) anyone have a parts tractor I can ****** some parts from you?

No spark

I'm guessing the starter solenoid is bad. If you hook up the positive cable it spins on it's own w/o touching a thing. Am I on the right path here?

She's a bit rough, but the motor spins freely and it did come with a rear discharge deck that has had some repair work done on it. I wouldn't use it to mow with anyhow (have a ZT for that).

Would love to get her up and running before I go and waste my time/effort on making her look good.

[C-Series14 15]

The decals tell us it is a 1973 10hp Auto. The VIN is 1-0475...

[SousaKerry 500]

ya know it always amazes me that the last so long that they always inherit seats from a much younger tractor.

Nice find once you get her running I'm sure she will be a good one.

If the starter is just spinning more then likely it's just the bendix gear on the end of the starter is stuck or gummed up. take the engine shroud off and clean it up a bit... probably a rats nest or two under there anyways. :thumbs2:

[COMMANDO6 20]

It's kinda sad seeing these things rot away like that. Well maybe now it'll have a new life.

Sorry that I'm not much help, I don't know much about these.

[C-Series14 15]

The throttle cable just needs to be routed thru the small hole in the stud at the top of the quadrant that the cable is near in the pic. There is a small screw that threads into the stud to hold the cable end...

The lower rod that runs up to the govenor needs a cotter pin in it to secure it to the quadrant.

[StWeiler 6]

CSeries14-Thanks. Naturally that little set screw is missing from the linkage so I'll have to track one down.

Now if I could just sort through the lack of spark issue. I think I'll start with a new plug and points and go from there.

So would this have been the predecessor to the C1XX series tractor?

[rmaynard 14,861]

The throttle cable just needs to be routed thru the small hole in the stud at the top of the quadrant that the cable is near in the pic. There is a small screw that threads into the stud to hold the cable end...

The lower rod that runs up to the govenor needs a cotter pin in it to secure it to the quadrant.

The governor rod needs to be at the top and the securing stud needs to be at the bottom with the screw head pointing away from the engine.

[C-Series14 15]

The throttle cable just needs to be routed thru the small hole in the stud at the top of the quadrant that the cable is near in the pic. There is a small screw that threads into the stud to hold the cable end...

The lower rod that runs up to the govenor needs a cotter pin in it to secure it to the quadrant.

The governor rod needs to be at the top and the securing stud needs to be at the bottom with the screw head pointing away from the engine.

Oops...missed that one!

Yes, it was the 10hp, C-100, C-101, C-105

[rmaynard 14,861]

If you need a copy of the wiring diagram, here it is:

[Martin 2,130]

CSeries14-Thanks. Naturally that little set screw is missing from the linkage so I'll have to track one down.

Now if I could just sort through the lack of spark issue. I think I'll start with a new plug and points and go from there.

So would this have been the predecessor to the C1XX series tractor?

i usually find with just about everything ive bought not running (from no spark) that its just a matter of running a points file on the point gap and thats enough to get them sparking. yours could be more than that, but i would start there before replacing anything. simple things first.

[Martin 2,130]

The throttle cable just needs to be routed thru the small hole in the stud at the top of the quadrant that the cable is near in the pic. There is a small screw that threads into the stud to hold the cable end...

The lower rod that runs up to the govenor needs a cotter pin in it to secure it to the quadrant.

The governor rod needs to be at the top and the securing stud needs to be at the bottom with the screw head pointing away from the engine.

also the quadrant is bolted in the wrong place (shroud mounting bolt hole). it needs to bolt in the hole just up a little and to the right so the governor linkage is actually near horizontal.

edit:you can see where the one in bobs pic is further up and to the right of where yours is bolted. yours is using the bolt location that you can just see the head of the bolt of in the above pic.

[c monster 0]

i agree with the points cleaning file or 400 grit emery paper, set gap a dollar bill folded twice (four thicknesses of bill) will make anything with points run fine. definately change oil, and check or change plug. pull off carb and clean, i always use drill bits for jets and check all passages and float needle. Starter will fall apart if your not careful mounting bolts hold together, but it might not need it. spray bendix with pb blaster or aero kroil.

it will run though with some tlc, those mowers are tanks. i abuse mine in every aspect and it always makes it home.

[rmaynard 14,861]

And since you will be moving things around, the coil is hanging too low. You will have to move it up to place all the other stuff in the correct position.

[jpmcleod 4]

What is that little round rod shaped thing sticking out from the points cover. I have never seen one like that.

As stated, I would start with the points and if they break with a spark, move to the coil wires for power to and from the coil to the plug.

Hope the hydro is good in it.

That horse ain't dead yet. Bring her back to life.

[StWeiler 6]

Thanks for all the input guys. My 2 weaknesses are electrical and carbs....so I'm sure I will be asking a lot of questions regarding those 2 topics.

[Martin 2,130]

Thanks for all the input guys. My 2 weaknesses are electrical and carbs....so I'm sure I will be asking a lot of questions regarding those 2 topics.

hopefully, those will be the ONLY 2 areas you need to mess with to get it going. :thumbs2:

[Kelly 1,028]

Thr button on the points cover is to kill the engine, it will hold the points open, normaly you don't see them on newer machines, mainly from the 60's, and many on the smaller engines.

[StWeiler 6]

Ok, so I'm at a bit of a loss (nothing new for me, I often jump in deeper than I can swim in).

Here's the dealio- hook up the battery cable and the starter starts to spin instantly. I walked through the wiring diagram posted above and it seems that everything is routed correctly. Is it possible that a ground/- and positive/+ could be backwards somewhere??? Would this cause this? Doesn't matter if the key is on or off...the starter starts to work the second that cable hits the terminal! Which is fine for now..as I am trying to trace the lack of spark thing down (so far I've gapped the points, changed the plug, and cleaned connections) and no sparky yet! Love electrical ~ NOT!

TIA

[rmaynard 14,861]

If the starter turns as soon as you connect the battery, then the solenoid is stuck in the closed position, either mechanically, or electrically.

Make sure that nothing is attached to the small lug at this point. Connect the (+) cable from the battery to one of the large lugs, and the cable from the starter to the other large lug. If the starter turns over, the solenoid is mechanically stuck. If nothing happens then it is not stuck.

The small wire that goes to the small lug should only be energized when the key is turned to start. If it has 12 volts to it all the time, and it is connected to the solenoid, then the solenoid will be energized and cause the starter to turn over as soon as the battery is connected.