tarheel 84 0 #1 Posted August 31, 2011 1979 C-18 with Kohler K181S Spec# 30700D SN# 9553412 engine. This is a vanilla machine with NO lights or PTO. A few days ago it started and then immediately stopped. When the key is turned there is NO clicking noise. Battery bench tested as excellent. The fuse connected to the solenoid had a broken wire going into the fuse holder. I now have a new fuse holder with fuse. The new fuses now immediately blow. Will a defective solenoid or ignition switch cause the fuse to blow? Can auto parts shops test solenoids or ignition switches? tarheel 84 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,805 #2 Posted August 31, 2011 :thumbs2: Did you mean C-81? Yes, a bad solenoid can blow a fuse. However, I don't think there is a fuse in the start circuit. Here is a wiring diagram if you don't have one. If you have a multi-meter, test the solenoid by putting the meter into the ohms mode. Make sure it is in the 200 ohms or less setting. Put one lead on the small lug, and the other on ground. You should get a reading of about 3.5 ohms. If it reads 0, then you have a dead short inside the solenoid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheel 84 0 #3 Posted September 1, 2011 Yes it is a C-81 I've owned it since 1986. I got the solenoid in my hand and looking straight at it. The large lug on the left is for the cable coming from my battery and that is where the wire with the fuse also attaches. The large right lug has the cable going to the starter. The small posts labeled "S" and "I" and only "S" is used. I honestly can't tell you where that wire is coming from. Which solenoid lug/s do I use for the test? My meter is questionable at time so I'll take the solenoid with me to my Auto Zone in the AM and ask them to test it if that's possible. You don't think that it could be the switch?? tarheel 84 :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,805 #4 Posted September 1, 2011 Take a wire and go directly from the battery to the "S" lug of the solenoid and see if it clicks. If it does, then I would suggest that the solenoid is good and suspect the ignition switch is bad or you have a short elsewhere. The fuse that you blew is in the main +12 volt circuit from the battery to the ignition switch. If turning the switch is somehow shorting to ground, then the fuse will blow and you will not have any +12 volts to anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheel 84 0 #5 Posted September 2, 2011 I have a dead short somewhere. I tried a wire from the battery to the "S" terminal on the solenoid and it clicks. In fact if I take a wire from the battery to the "S" terminal with all the cables/wires in place it will crank the engine. I have tried a new switch and still no luck. There is no sound of what so ever when the switch is turned. There is a small engine mechanic in my town that will be my next alternative. This is such a "plain Jane" engine and yet it has me stumped/frustrated. Thanks for your suggestions. tarheel84 :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #6 Posted September 3, 2011 i would check to see if you have power to the key,its possible you have a short before the switch,if 2 switches dont work,check the ammeter,may be put a jumper inplace of the ammeter,you need it for power to the switch,then check the fuse wire and socket,thats pretty well all the power to key things to look for Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheel 84 0 #7 Posted September 3, 2011 Thanks... The ampmeter has not been working consistently most of the time not. I pulled the front plate that contains the ampmeter and disconnected the red and green wire. I forgot which terminal of the meter they belong on. When you said a jumper you mean a short wire to connect the red and green together? I'm also going to check the "kill" button under the seat. tarheel 84 :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheel 84 0 #8 Posted September 3, 2011 Whooopee.... I found a wire pinched against the lever used to engage the mower deck. I never use the deck because it is too wide and scallops my lawn in some areas. I have a 28" Snapper when I'm too lazy to walk. I use the WH to pull the dump trailer to haul every thing from rock,dirt and tree limbs after a storm. As for the ampmeter I guess that it is wired correctly because it goes to "-' when the key is first turned on and then to "+" after the engine starts. Right now it doesn't show charging because I've had a charger on the battery and it is fully charged. If I need a new meter I should be able to find it at Auto Zone or Advance? Thanks again for your assistance. tarheel 84 :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarheel 84 0 #9 Posted September 3, 2011 Is there a way to check the amp meter? Some times when the engine first starts it will go into the "+" side for a few seconds and then go back to the center. If I keep the engine at a high RPM it will stay in the "+" side longer. I have a gut feeling that it may not be the amp meter tarheel84 :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,805 #10 Posted September 4, 2011 Most ammeters do strange things. Of the ones that I have, none give me a true reading. Most just fluctuate back and forth while the engine is running, but my batteries stay fully charged. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites