36" RD cutting deck

[Raider 10 0]

Hi Guys

After I got the engine tuned up on my Raider 10 I noticed how noisy the cutting deck was. I found that I have bad bearings in a spindle. Can I just replace the bearing or do I replace the whole assembly. It looks like the ball bearing is peened into place. Could this be right?

Thank for looking.

Michael

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Your answer can be found here:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3118

[Raider 10 0]

Hi Terry

Thanks for you reply. I had looked at that thread and I did again but I don't seem to find an answer. My wife has accussed me of not seeing something when it's right in front of my eyes, so this could be the problem. However...I think you are refering to your post in that thread where you show the shaft and bearing as one unit. I think mine is different perhaps it's a model 5-0601 where the shaft and the bearings are separate parts. The spindle housing looks like it was peened to retain the ball bearing. If that is the case then my question is how do I (if I can) remove the bearing from the housing.

Thanks for looking and sharing your experience.

Here is another pic of my spindle assembly.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Your spindle housing was indeed peened, and you're probably correct with the 5-0601 deck model number - now that I have seen your tractor.

I'd say somewhere in the life of the deck, the outer race on the upper bearing spun inside the housing. It wore the bore oversize, and a previous owner or shop peened the housing to "tighten the bearing".

You should still be able to drive or press the bearings out from bottom to top, but I don't know if you'll have much of a housing left. :whistle:

[KyBlue 652]

I actually might have a spindle that'd work for ya ... I bought one for my 36" deck and its different. Turned out I didnt need it anyway - yet anyhow.

I'll dig it out for ya thursday and measure and get a couple photos if your interested.

[Raider 10 0]

Ok, I was able to get the outer race out of the housing with minimal damage. I checked at the local NAPA Auto and they were unable to cross reference the bearings. I also checked with a Toro dealer/ small engine repair and they wanted to sell me a new complete spindle, ouch, almost $100. I'm going to continue to check around and try to find replacement bearings.

Scott, Thanks for your offer. I'd sure appreciate it if you wouldn't mind looking into the spindle you have.

Michael

[KyBlue 652]

I dont mind. I'm down in Georgia for work till tomorrow afternoon - I'll dig it out and get some pictures.

[Raider 10 0]

Here's an up-date....

I got the outer race out of the spindle housing. I used a metal type die grinder and basically cut the race in half and took it out in two pieces. The lower needle type bearing came out easy with a socket and a hammer. I then tried with no luck to get replacement bearins from NAPA auto. So I call a local bearing company, Motion Industries in Whippany, NJ, and they shipped me both bearings which arrived today. I don't know if you guys want to move this info for future use but the bearing numbers for the spindle 5-0601 are top bearing is General Bearing Co # 22612-88 and the bottom bearing is Torrington JT 1213. Anyway, I got the spindle all back together again and in a few minutes I'm going to put it back on the cutting deck and give it a test drive.

Scott, Thanks again for your offer. I'll let you know if I have any problems with the rebuild spindle.

Michael

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Dang, Michael..... you don't mess around!

How'd you make out with the test mow?

[KyBlue 652]

Okay - Hope it all works out for ya! Be Sure to let us know how it worked!!

[Raider 10 0]

What a difference, quieted it right down.

When I put the spindle back together I noticed the top bearing spinning in the housing so I peened it again in the same spots that were befor and that did the trick to tighten it back up.

These tractors are amazing at how easy the deck goes on and off and still cuts so well with no adjustments. I have an old craftsman tractor and the thing doesen't cut worth a damn.

I've had a problem with the deck dropping off from the quick release so I added a spring from the handle part to the channel on the cutting deck and I haven't had a problem since.

Now I need to work on the electric system so I can get some light.

Michael

[KyBlue 652]

Michael, be sure that your getting the mid mount far enough back to latch. When it does, its not possible for it to come open unless ur pushing in the rod.

Mine came off once, I didnt get it back enough to latch. I give it a gentle smack with a wooden handle now.. Mines pretty tight

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

I can't see it well enough in the picture, but this tractor shouldn't have the self-latching mid hitch.

There is a hole on the left side frame bracket that is made for a "hair pin". Once you insert the pin, the latch can't open.

[Raider 10 0]

You are correct, mine does not have a self-latching mid hitch. TT wrote "There is a hole on the left side frame bracket that is made for a "hair pin". Once you insert the pin, the latch can't open. " You are right, there is a hole just behind the latch where a pin goes but I guess the latch part is worn enough that the pin wond hold it securely. This wekend I'll get a close up pic and share it.

Michael

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

One of the old tricks used to be to drill that hole out to at least 1/4" and stick a bolt through it. :whistle:

[Lane Ranger 10,472]

Raider 10: You can also buy bearings cheaper at U.S. Bearings and/or online from all places amazon.com. I bought Torrington 1212 bearings for me 32 inch wheel horse mower decks. Aout 6 bucks each. I also found oil seals at NAPA after being pointed towards the SKF website: http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_part...okup_457012.htm where you can check seals produced and sold by SKF for a varity of manufacturers. SKF supplies trhu NAPA and the seals were less thn five dollars each.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Lane,

been there, done that - I rebuilt one of these spindles a long time back before the Internet.I didn't even have a manual or a dealer, but I was able to use generic parts just like you.

I got them from Small Parts

ISTR there may have been a clip that held the bearing in place

Funny coincidence, yesterday I just lost a spindle so I'll be tearing into one of these spindles later today.

I did pick up some spare spindles on Ebay, so I am hoping I can put one of those on and then rebuild this as a spare since the grass needs cutting and more rain is supposed to be coming soon. Not 100% sure they are the same spindle so we'll see!

Wish me luck :whistle:

[Lane Ranger 10,472]

:whistle: Good Luck Wheel Horse of Course:

I also learned a trick from my brother about getting out old bearkings from the housing on a 32 inch gear driven deck. Use a 3/4 or 1 inch dowell rod to know out the bearing and casing with a hammer without damaging the housing.

I bought some new needle bearings to re-do my other deck.

Also the Tractor Supply Stores (TSC) in Indiana offer lots of the parts, clips, hardened bolts etc you need to keep you tractor and implments in good maintenance.

What amazes me is how much grease you need handy to keep these things rolling! And the three speed transmission is a real amazing accomplishment in engineering!

[Raider 10 0]

Thanks for the tip Lane. It's amazing what you can get through amazon.

I'll keep that in mind for next time.

Michael

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Well, I figure it makes sense to continue with the same thread....\

The spindle I blew out this week was identical to the one Raider 10 pictured, and identical or very similar to the one I rebuilt years ago on my 1975 C-120.

I do think that one was a bit different and had an inside c-clip rather than the staking, but indeed this one was staked just like pictured up thread.

The other 2 spindles were different however, and the set of three I had bought to have as spares were like those ones. These are still the Double-d type fopr both the blade and pulley.

So, I have a matching set of the ones that have the a single shaft/bearing assembly (I have no idea how hard it is to press those out.

The older style appears to be made of pot metal or maybe aluminum and are attached with carriage bolts from the top and nuts underneath. The newer style are cast iron and are threaded so I had to buy some hex head bolts to attach it.

By the way, these bolts get no washer or lock washer ! or the pulley does not clear. If they work loose I will use lock tight.

I will rebuild the old one and keep it as a spare. I will probably have a roller bearing assembly.

I did not have the chance to put the3 deck back on (and it is raining) but as soon as it dries I'll be ready try it out.