main drive belt help

[dgjks6 6]

The guard on the main drive belt guard under the tractor was bent outward. So I fixed it. With a hammer. Now the belt sometimes pops out below the guard. There are some performance issues like going slow up while mowing. Should I rebend the guard or get a new belt.

Greg

[MaineDad 85]

Does the belt look worn? If so it should be replaced. The other thing to consider is if the clutch idler pulley is too loose. Take the belt guard off and have someone push in the clutch. You should see the belt go loose when the clutch is depressed. You should see the belt tighten when it is released. This is a good starting point to figure out what is wrong.

Let us know...

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Vertical or Horizontal?

[dgjks6 6]

clutch works OK. Belt tightens and loosens, but when it is loose and still spinning goes over the guard. What is verticle or horizontal. BTW - the dealer said the belt is $30 and they will put it on for $55. I may just do that. But it is always more rewarding to do it yourself.

Greg

[rustbucket 4]

vertical is when the piston goes front to back and the crank shaft points from ground to sky and horizontal is when piston points to the sky and the crank is side to side on the frame.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

clutch works OK. Belt tightens and loosens, but when it is loose and still spinning goes over the guard. What is verticle or horizontal. BTW - the dealer said the belt is $30 and they will put it on for $55. I may just do that. But it is always more rewarding to do it yourself.

Greg

What kind of tractor do you have? I may be able to get you a belt cheaper in a Gates!

Duke

[dgjks6 6]

It is an 86 312-8. It may be an 87. We got it when I was in high school. Can't remember which year exactly. I was too busy chasing my wife.

As far as vertical or horizontal - no idea - and what does it have to do with the main belt?

Greg

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Go HERE and get your correct model number and you can find the belt your tractor takes. You can save this PDF for future refrence.

Then call Randy Fry at:

Southwestern Supply Corp

269-429-8118

4728 Niles Rd

Royalton Township, MI 49085

Or find the model # PM me with it what you gave me was the tractor

description. Then I will Call Randy

Cheers Duke

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

The drive belt is P/N 7473 (crosses to Gates 6982) and is listed at PartsTree.com for $18.47 (OEM Toro belt).

This belt was used on many WH tractors for years and should be a stocked item at most dealers.

It probably wouldn't hurt to replace the "V" idler on the tensioner (clutch) while you are there. (P/N 95-7668 @ less than $9.00 list price)

The question of horizontal or vertical was presented because of the variations in the tensioners. A tractor with a vertical shaft engine normally doesn't have a drive belt guard because the belt is contained under the chassis.

A recommendation to you would be to list your tractor model in your signature, or mention it when you ask questions about it in the forum. There's far too many people and different tractors here to remember "who has what". :WRS:

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Does the belt look worn? If so it should be replaced. The other thing to consider is if the clutch idler pulley is too loose. Take the belt guard off and have someone push in the clutch. You should see the belt go loose when the clutch is depressed. You should see the belt tighten when it is released. This is a good starting point to figure out what is wrong.

Let us know...

Micah ~ Nice looking garden you have there mate went to your website! nice job....

TT your a "BLOOD HOUND" when it comes to part #'s! On his tractor that year under wheel horse by years came up with more than 1 model # how do you distinguish between them or did they all come up with same belt #?

Duke

[MaineDad 85]

Thanks. Did a new post today.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

TT you're a "BLOOD HOUND" when it comes to part #'s! On his tractor that year under wheel horse by years came up with more than 1 model # how do you distinguish between them or did they all come up with same belt #?

Duke

The majority of the "newer" 6 / 8 speed tractors (from 1968 & up ~ with the 4" engine pulley) use P/N 7473 drive belt.

I've had 3 of the GT-1100 WorkHorses, a few C series 8 speeds, and a 1985 312-8 that all used that same belt. I guess it's more "part number retention", than actual knowledge. :D

[dgjks6 6]

I just have to say the toro site with the part number is the coolest thing ever. Now I know where to get the part number. I even found my 37 inch deck there.

You guys are great!

Greg

[dgjks6 6]

I decided to replace the belt, butone question first. It was recommended to replace the v idler or tensioner pulley. I can't find this on the parts diagram. Where is it - on whcih diagram?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Ummmmm.....

There are 3 pullies that the drive belt passes over. One is on the engine, one is on the transaxle, and there is one on a pivoting arm that is indirectly connected to the clutch pedal. This is the "V" idler I'm referring to and it is responsible for tightening the drive belt so the tractor will move - and loosening it so the tractor will stop. (with the assistance of the brakes, of course.) Once you remove the belt guard you'll see it. You can find it on the IPL drawing on the "clutch and brake linkage" plate.

[dgjks6 6]

I am sorry if this is stupid, but I need basics.

First - I discovered that my tractor is a 1989 312-8 - not an 96-87 (though I swear we got it while I was still in high school - but I guess I am wrong) - anyway - I looked at the toro master parts viewer clutch and brake diagram - and I can not see part number 95-7668.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

The number on the parts list is 7451 which has been changed to 95-7668. Napa replacement 7-05218.

If you want an idler with a real ball bearing in it use Toro 52-4580 replaced by 99-5678. Napa replacement 7-05485. This one uses a 6203-2RS bearing bushed down to 3/8".

Garry

[dgjks6 6]

OK guys - walk me thourgh this.

Took off the belt guard last night. There was a big chunck missing from the top of the belt. I see the idler pulley. What is next? I can get the belt off when I remove the PTO stuff and have a kid push in the clutch. Do I just put the new belt on? Is there any adjustment.

And where does the brake get involved?

Greg

Sorry I'm slow, I just want to do it right the first time.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Unbolt the idler pulley -- DO NOT BEND THE TAB ON THE ARM to get the belt off!

Remove the old belt and reinstall the new belt on the engine and transmission pullies. Place the idler pulley under the top run of the belt and hold down the clutch pedal while you bolt the idler pulley to the arm. There is no adjustment for this belt, but you can adjust the clutch pedal position. (you really need to get a manual for your tractor.)

The brakes are controlled by separate linkage hooked to the brake pedal. Putting a drive belt on will not change anything with the brakes.

[dgjks6 6]

Thank you. I know I need a manual, but it is fun to ask you guys. And while I am here at work I ask all my questions and then go home and do th ejob (if my wife lets me).

Last project was adjusting the brake - and did with no problem. Next job is adjusting the valves. Tonight change the drive belt.

I am going to go to my mothers house and look for the paper work for the tractor.

Greg

[Duff 206]

...... hold down the clutch pedal while you bolt the idler pulley to the arm. There is no adjustment for this belt.....

Possible suggestion - if you don't have someone nearby to hold the clutch pedal down while you bolt on the idler pulley, you can use a ratchet strap looped around the clutch pedal and the front axle to hold it down. This is what I had to do working alone - worked slick!

Deereman :whistle:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Using a strap is a great idea.

99% of the time I'm by myself, so I usually just unhook the return spring. I've also been know to use a chunk of railroad tie as a clutch pedal "pusher-downer". :whistle:

[Duff 206]

Using a strap is a great idea.

99% of the time I'm by myself, so I usually just unhook the return spring. I've also been know to use a chunk of railroad tie as a clutch pedal "pusher-downer".

I tried that, too. With my shall we say "limited" mechanical aptitude and selection of tools, I had one heck of a time getting the return spring hooked back up, so I reverted to the strap method out of sheer frustration!

Have a great weekend, TT, and thanks as always for your great advice!

Deereman :D

[MaineDad 85]

I usually use a bungy cord to keep the clutch depressed while working alone. I use my kids to push the clutch in and out too :whistle:

[bowtieguy 334]

Kids to push clutch pedal!!!!...wow you guys bring back good memories....being one of 3 boys, dad was always using one of us to "push the pedal"....and being raised on a farm there was always something that dad was working on that needed a "3rd hand"...or foot in this case....how many time do you remember your dad telling you to pump the brake pedal until I tell ya to release it....and sometimes you were probably too short to reach the pedal, but boy what a proud feeling when ya got the pedal pumped up and dad bled the air out of the brake line and you felt the pedal go all the way to the floor....I hope you guys develop that same relationship with your sons...as for me my only child was a girl, but she now has triplet sons that are almost a year old....you can only guess how much fun I am going to have getting the grandsons to "push the pedal down"!!!???

Sorry mods if this is off topic...but thought was too good to pass up....and more meaningful while seeing the relationship Tim Russert had with his dad, Big Russ.