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Trouty56

Well Bob, I did some thinking, I learned that 30 some odd years ago, not 100% sure where I learned it?, so I googled it, and I came up with a few different answers, but the most common was to have at least 2 or 3 threads minimum sticking out past the nut, because the first few threads on most bolts are chamfered or rolled to make starting easier, and they will not engauge the nut properly, then I got to thinking at work today about this and when I was drag racing years ago, NHRA rules stated the wheel stud must extend the bolt diam. past the face of the lug nut, and I'm also leaning to my Dad telling me this rule, he was a mech. in the Army in the 60's and 70's At any rate it's a habbit of mine, and I stick pretty close to it, when I can.

Stormin, I don't think anything can hit these studs the wheels are so deep.

I was curious about it that is all...thinking Ford was being cheap......

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Kelly

I was out boxing stuff to ship and when I was done, I was looking at the steering valve laying on the hood, and just had to swap them out, I had not planned on doing anything to it tonight, but glad I did every little bit helps, back when I built the mount to hold the valve, I notched the frame about 1/4" on each side so if I ever needed to remove the valve it would fit out the bottom, well I'm glad I was thinking ahead it worked good, it was still a tight fit, and getting the lines tight up in the mount is fun, you just have to pick what lines to do first and so on, I'm very very happy with the new shaft set up, it is very tight and smooth, so glad I did this.

This looks much cleaner and it is easier to work with, I changed the upper dash tower as the other one was broke, this one is just ugly.

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The steering shaft is the exact height as the orig. one, I'll be able to put the plastic cover over the steering shaft when done with no mods.

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This is how tight it is from the bottom like I said it was fun to tighten the lines.

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here you can see the notches in the frame rails so the valve fits out the bottom. yes the one bolt is WAY to long but it's what I had at the time, everything still needs to come back apart to the bare frame, in the near future

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Stormin

Stormin, I don't think anything can hit these studs the wheels are so deep.

I wasn't thinking of anything hitting them. Just keeping them clean and rust free. Really like the tractor and the work you've put into it. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Kelly

Ok on with the fender build, here is the post asking if you liked the new old fenders,

I knew I liked the idea but wanted to get the opinion of others I don't want this to be uglier that it already is, and the plastic fenders didn't help the look.

To recap I'm using GT14 fenders the tops and fronts.

I need the footrest to line up better with the front of the fender, so grabbed a spare footrest and cut a chunk off the side of it, to use as a extension, I'll trim the side off the footrest and butt this up to the orig. and weld it up so it looks factory, I need to work out the small gap at the joint between the footrest and fender but that will be no big deal, just didn't have time tonight, the gap between the fender and the steel support the seat sets on will be easy to fill, I plan to fit some angle iron in there and will be able to bolt the fender to it using the factory holes in the fender, the front top of the fender has a tab on it and I think I'm going to use it to mount the fender to the seat support, it lines up pretty good, I still need to trim the tab off right below it, I trimmed the lower tab already, I got the angle of the front of the fender to line up perfectly with the back edge of the belt guard, that was a plus, and I have the center of the top of the fender lined up with the center of the rim, another plus, I think this weekend I'm going to be trying to get the fenders so they are close to being done, I have a plan in my head, only thing left to figure is the hyd. controls if I can leave them as they are or if I have to fab a mount for them.

Footrest ready to be cut

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Mocked up piece I cut off, see the good use of old car speaker magenets??

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Gap I need to fill, but that will be easy.

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Tab I will most likly be using as a top mount, still need to trim tab marked to be cut.

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Gap I will fill with 1" angle iron, and will be mounting point for side of fender using factory holes.

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And I'm still thinking of mounting lights in a recessed area in the fenders.

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Don1977

You have that fender looking great, don't think anything else would look any better. The best part is it still Wheel Horse. :thumbs:

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perry

I just might have a new turbo charger to donate :) . it's for a older dodge caravan.

your cookin along on this project. like the use of the speaker magnet, good to know in the future.

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Kelly

Thanks Perry, but I think that might be a bit big, I was looking at small ones for ATVs and motorcycles, but I think for now I'll pass on a turbo for now, but it would be soooooo cool.

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Kelly

Didn't get much work time tonight my daughter is a cheer leader and she had a B ball game tonight so we went to that, can't miss the kid stuff, she is a senior this year and has been cheering since 4th grade, she hopes to do it in collage next fall.

Well I figured if I'm going to make fenders up and make them fit right I better start from the bottom and work up, I knew the lower dash tower had some issues cracks and was a bit tweaked the bolt holes didn't line up, you had to push or pull to get bolts in, so I pulled the tower off and gutted it, I hammered the panels around till everything lined up, found a big dent in the side behind the idler pulley, looks like someone had a pry bar in there at some point, but all is good now, I lined up the cracks on both sides of the tower and welded them up, I added a weld to the inside while I was at it, I may add a brace in the tower at this point where I welded it up, it is the weak point by far, and 10 min. of welding could make it much stronger.

My naked tractor, but I need a square solid starting point to mount the fenders, and be sure everything lines up good when done.

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Hard to see all the cracks but both sides of the tower were broke, one side had a 1"+ crack, the other side had a few 1" cracks, and I welded both inside and out.

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all welded up and ground, but I may weld some small plates around this corner to stiffen it up.

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can whlvr

:bow-blue: its really comin along nice,

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Cvans

Nice Work. Your work looks very nice.

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Kelly

Spent some time tonight working on it, it was near 60 deg today so most of the day I was out in the yard, but did get on it after dark, I got my aircleaner hoses in the mail, so a quick fit I think it is going to work, I still need to fine tune the fit and put clamps on it, but I'm happy with it, and it clears the hood by about 1/2" :woohoo: .

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I cut pieces to fill the gaps on the dash tower to make it stronger, and filled the hole used for the dial adjust, that I will not need and hydros don't have, I didn't get pics of it done I was busy and forgot to take them.

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Then I got back on the fenders and footrest, I cut up a couple foot rest I screwed the first one up, so I had to start on another one, glad I have a few, :hide: it's pretty thick metal so I cut all of it with the torches then ground it to where I wanted it, long process but I don't really have a better way, I'm trying hard to make it look factory so I cut the side off the main footrest and a chunk out of another to blend them together and meet the front of the fender for a clean finished look, at this point I'm thinking it looks pretty good.

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This is the gap I needed to fill between the footrest and the fender.

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I cut up the scrap parts I cut off the footrest to use as filler for the gap, this took a couple hours getting everything to line up, but I wanted it mocked up before I came in for the night, so I stuck to it, pieces fit and ready to weld up.

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after some final trimming and linning things up I got it all tack welded together, I still need to finish weld everything, but it is getting late and I'm tired, so here is where I left off, I will use the factory hole in the fender to bolt it to the footrest and drill another over a bit so it looks better, or weld the hole up and put one bolt in the middle, not sure on that yet :scratchead: anyway here it is, one side part way done.

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sorekiwi

Nice!

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perry

nice fab on the footrest . i like the keeping it factory look.

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546cowboy

After seeing some of your other stuff at the Michigan show last year, I know what it's going to look like when your done. Nice work! :woohoo:

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Kelly

I didn't get as much done today as I wanted, had a few people stop by, and I had to drive 60 mile round trip to get some steel, yes the steel place is open on sun. it's a Alro steel outlet store, great place good prices.

I got home and fit the 1" angle iron to the side of the seat support, to make a mounting flange to bolt the fender to, and fill the gap I had, I had to grind a little off so it fit better, and I got off a bit with the grinder :hide: but nothing a little weld will not fill, then I drilled all the mounting holes, I have to say this is going better than I had planned in my mind, I also built a support to go under the fender to stiffen it up some, I only had thin stuff or 1/4" thick 1 1/2" wide so that is what I used, a bit of over kill, but STRONG, I bent that up, and it was a chore I tell you, but I got it fit to the inside of the fender, I also used a fender bracket that was on the GT14 on the outside to bolt through the fender and through the support I just built, again over kill, but hey I had the stuff just laying here, so now the right side is all fabbed up, just need to take it all apart and weld it up, and trim a few things like the back side of the footrest where the new upright pieces are, I started on the left side but it was getting late, so I only got it to mock up stage, but it should go good as I have a clue how to do it after the other side, still need to figure a way to make the hole for the hyd. lift handles look cleaner, but I'll get to that.

Fender support tack welded and holes drilled, I think I'm going to make a fan guard out of expanded metal, but I don't have any so that will come later, factory never had one but I think it will be a good idea.

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Back of footrest to fender mounts, I need to trim the footrest for a cleaner look, but I'll do that when I have it off.

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fender support, this took a bit of work to bend and fit the fender right.

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Support bolted in.

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Support on outside bolted through inner support.

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All tacked and ready to tear apart for final welding.

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Left side mocked up, and hyd. control hole cut.

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View from front

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73-18 automatic

Lookin good

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Don1977

Those fenders line up perfect with the hood. Looks like there is room between the fenders for a "D" type fuel tank.

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kpinnc

That's a very cool look Kelly! :bow-blue:

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Cvans

Very nice work. Looking forward to the completed project. :thumbs:

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roscoemi

Company I worked for ordered stainless and cold rolled from Alro, very resonable. They would also provide steel laser cut with holes, slots or whatever very reasonable if you provided a drawing. We would email basic cad drawings and they delivered cut to order steel 2 days later. :thumbs: Try a Greenlee tool for popping clean holes for your hoses.

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Jake Kuhn

That looks awesome kelly! :handgestures-thumbup:

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Ken B

Now that is some nice fab work. Looking sweet Kelly.

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Kelly

Mini update, I've been trying to get something, even if small done every few nights after work, but some nights it's hard to do anything after work.

Tonight I cut and tack welded the left footrest up, I only planned to just do the main part, not the tabs for the fender to bolt to but it was going pretty good so I didn't want to stop, so I have the whole footrest ready to weld, YAA me.

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otrelwood

nice work kelly

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refracman

NIce job Kelly, the fenders are going to look good.

Too bad about the hoses, I think the hyd. would of been easier to use up high.

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