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C-160 Tractor

Paint Help

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C-160 Tractor

Hello All.

I am very frustrated right now.

I bought 6 cans of some Krylon Special Purpose (tractor red) spray paint.

I sprayed it on over some Rustoleum enamel paint I had painted on months ago and as I am working my way around spraying I look up at what I just sprayed and it was all bubbling and peeling.

I was able to wipe my finger on the parts that where doing this and it was removing all the paint almost down to bare metal in some spots.

I read some people say that the Krylon paint has a lot of solvent in it, is that the issue?

Or is Rustoleum and Krylon paint different and cannot apply one over the other?

Regardless the job looks like crap so I immediately stopped and started to wipe it off as fast as I could.

Now what should my next step be?

I am not looking for a show room finish but this wrinkle and peeling and shrinking look does nothing for me. haha

I was thinking I may need to return the other 5 unused cans and then buy Rustoleum again?

Then maybe sand down the other paint and wait a few days and try again?

also it is 62 degrees out and I just checked the weather.com and the humidity was 80%.

I know that can't be good as well, but I was in my garage. :thumbs:

very sad right now.

I wanted to paint some tractor parts and be good to go by the weekend.

Not happening now.

thanks for the tips/help if you have any.

Brian

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64s

Hi, I did the same thing 20-25 years ago and learned quickly that they both have different solvent bases - there is no way to make them compatible with each other without applying a primer/sealer first. Personally, I'd stick with which ever product was applied first, but if you really want to change, sand and prime first. Good luck (I know the mess it makes).

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C-160 Tractor

Hi, I did the same thing 20-25 years ago and learned quickly that they both have different solvent bases - there is no way to make them compatible with each other without applying a primer/sealer first. Personally, I'd stick with which ever product was applied first, but if you really want to change, sand and prime first. Good luck (I know the mess it makes).

Ok so it looks like I was just being stupid and lazy pretty much. haha

So I am thinking for starters I should return the Krylon (enamel)_ and pick up some more Rustoleum (oil base i think) along with some Rustoleum primer.

Maybe sand it all down again but better.

Clean the surface with some kind of cleaning solution? (anyone know if that would be needed and a product I should buy? That I can buy local?)

Prime with the primer,

then paint.

Should that be my plan of attack?

I used to be good at spray painting, but it was small stuff and I prepped it all.

Now I just have gotten lazy and rushed it all I think, plus the paint choice may have messed me up.

I want to learn a lesson from this and not rush it again.

Even though I am just trying to make a few parts Red I think to save me hassle its best to do it right.

But how is the right way to go about it?

thanks

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Save Old Iron

If you decide to go with Rustoleum primer, go with "clean metal" primer - not the primer for "rusty metal"

I read on the Rustoleum website the "rusty metal" primer contains extra oils that intentionally take a very long time to dry. Apparently this allows the primer to adhere to active rust spots much better thabn the "clean metal" formula.

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rmaynard

Krylon paint was my big problem in my first restoration. I didn't have any issues with wrinkling or lifting, just that fact that it never properly cured.

However, having said that, I have had problems with Krylon lifting paint if painted over another brand. Krylon's formula is very similar to lacquer. Lacquer sprayed over other types of paint will act as a paint remover.

Unless you are going to remove all the old Rustoleum, then primer and repaint, I would stick with the Rustoleum. It may take longer to dry, but at least you know it will be compatible.

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C-160 Tractor

Krylon paint was my big problem in my first restoration. I didn't have any issues with wrinkling or lifting, just that fact that it never properly cured.

However, having said that, I have had problems with Krylon lifting paint if painted over another brand. Krylon's formula is very similar to lacquer. Lacquer sprayed over other types of paint will act as a paint remover.

Unless you are going to remove all the old Rustoleum, then primer and repaint, I would stick with the Rustoleum. It may take longer to dry, but at least you know it will be compatible.

thanks my friends.

I returned the Krylon paint.

I picked up 6 cans of rustoleum along with 2 cans of rustoleum primer.

I did not find anything there that was to clean the metal before painting the primer?

I plan on sanding it back down today and spraying the primer on.

(after reading instructions so I know when it is ok to put top coat on haha)

I hope it turns out better now that I have the same paint as I used before.

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Duff

Brian, I wipe things down with acetone prior to painting. If you are blending from bare metal into an area that already has paint on it, be careful - acetone will soften Rustoleum and whatever the factory paint was that WH used on the 300-400 series machines (probably others, too, but I only know about pre-1990 maroon stripe tractors). A quick wipe to remove surface contaminants won't cause any problems - just don't saturate the surface with the acetone. This has worked well for me with no problems.

Duff :thumbs:

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C-160 Tractor

thanks again all.

I did some painting today and it turned out a lot better!

I applied top coat after letting primer dry for 1 hour as the can suggested.

It said re-coat or apply top coat 1 hour or 48 hour later.

it looks great. (for what it is. haha) I am way more satisfied.

That Krylon paint sure threw me for a loop.

It was like paint remover more than paint.

But now I understand why, and I will just stick with the Rustoleum just to save me a little hassle with removing old stuff.

thanks again,

So I have a new issue with my tractor if anyone wants to check it out and offer any help I appreciate it.

Link

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...t=0#entry229165

Brian

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can whlvr

i too have had this problem a few years ago,tried a different brand of paint and it needed a special type of thinner,cant remember the name right now,but it sure makes the heart drop a few beats when you see the paint bubbling like stripper on it :banghead:the solvent was called reducer,its for the type of paint that i used and shouldnt have

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