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skeggordon

New Wheel Horse owner in MD.

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mcwh1950

Here is a picture of the wiring diagram out of the 810569r1 manual.

The j hook go from

side to side. What ever you do , don't put you belt on up side down of it's the 6 side belt

20110421232612.jpg

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skeggordon

Hi Smitty,

Thanks for the photo of the electrical diagram. It matches the one I have on file here, so I can trust it now.

One thing I did do already was change the oil in the transmission. It was sort of a reddish brown sludge. Following an old thread here, dumped some diesel and transmission flush in, ran it in all gears with one wheel lifted for about 20 minutes, then drained it and added fresh gear oil. The drain plug doesn't come out of the bottom, so a little of the old sludge is still in there. Not quite ready to take the transmission apart, so that will have to do for now. Next time I'll jack up the front of the tractor a little.

Yours, Jay Gordon

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mcwh1950

The build date should be right under the model number in a square box like the model number.

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can whlvr

the problem with the id tags on the newer horses is they went to a sticker and most of them are faded or painted over

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rmaynard

Hi Bob (rmaynard), good to know you're nearby. And even closer to Sykesville, where I'm working now. Last summer a fellow in Frederick had a WH get together. Now that I have one, could go to the next one if it happens again....

Jay,

I am in Sykesville quite often. Might run into you sometime.

The meet & greet was in Middletown, just outside of Frederick. The attendance was a little low, and I think that was mainly due to the 100 degree temps that day. But it was a lot of fun none the less. The gal that had it has not been on RedSquare lately. She did come on and say that she should be at the WHCC show in June. So, if you can attend that, we can discuss with her whether or not she is going to have another one this summer.

Bob

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shallowwatersailor

Jay,

:thumbs: Glad to have you aboard! I am down the road southwest of you. I was the other member that was at the Meet and Greet in Middletown. Hopefully we do it again sometime.

John

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Daddy Don

:thumbs:

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tunahead72

Garry,

Here's my piece of the 310-8 puzzle:

I bought mine new in May of 1987 -- still have my receipt, you know, in case I need warranty work sometime soon. :thumbs:

Model no. 21-10K802 (can still read this on the VIN plate, believe this makes it a 1986 model)

Serial no. 18576 (can't read this part of the plate, good thing the dealer wrote it down :wh: )

Can't read the build date.

I still have the original 42" side-discharge mower this came with, but I can't read anything on the plate.

But the dealer came through again, it's serial no. 69271.

I also have some manuals:

Operator's Manual, 300 & 400 series tractors, part no. 810473R1 -- this is what the dealer gave me, I know it's not the correct manual for my tractor (wrong engine & ignition, etc.).

Operating and Maintenance Instructions, 300 & 400 series mowers, part no. 810403R1, dated 05/85 -- I believe this came with the mower.

Parts & Service Manual, 300 & 400 series tractors, part no. 810405R1, dated 09/85 -- I ordered this shortly after I bought the tractor, I believe it's correct.

Attachment Parts Manual, 300 & 400 series mowers, part no. 810407R1, dated 04/85, "price $1.00" :D -- Likewise, except the drawings for the 42" side discharge mower show the deck height adjustment mechanism on the left side, mine is on the right -- come to think of it, I don't think I've ever seen a parts diagram/list that showed it on the right :D . Which means, I don't really know what model deck I have.

The engine is a Kohler K241S, spec. no. PS-46863. I still have a sticker that came with the tractor that gives the job no. (502262) and serial no. (1610207593).

I also have (can you say "pack rat"?) a "quality assurance card" that looks like it came with the mower, that says "Packed By Clock #04584", whatever that means. :D

And finally, I can't tell you how my headlights work, because right now they don't work at all, and honestly I don't remember.

Hope this means something to you, thanks for putting this all together!

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gwest_ca

Garry,

Here's my piece of the 310-8 puzzle:

I bought mine new in May of 1987 -- still have my receipt, you know, in case I need warranty work sometime soon. :thumbs:

Model no. 21-10K802 (can still read this on the VIN plate, believe this makes it a 1986 model)

Serial no. 18576 (can't read this part of the plate, good thing the dealer wrote it down :wh: )

Can't read the build date.

I still have the original 42" side-discharge mower this came with, but I can't read anything on the plate.

But the dealer came through again, it's serial no. 69271.

I also have some manuals:

Operator's Manual, 300 & 400 series tractors, part no. 810473R1 -- this is what the dealer gave me, I know it's not the correct manual for my tractor (wrong engine & ignition, etc.).

The engine is a Kohler K241S, spec. no. PS-46863. I still have a sticker that came with the tractor that gives the job no. (502262) and serial no. (1610207593).

For some reason 1986 has 2 of almost everything from model numbers to manuals. Have long suspected the early versions were Wheel Horse produced and the later Toro produced. Just a guess because 1986 is the year Toro took ownership.

The 21-10K802 you have is a 1986 model and so is 21-10K803.

Both models show as using the K241S-46863 which was the last year for battery ignition, first year for the low oil switch and a dual stator - one to power the headlamps and a 3amp to charge the battery.

The 1610207593 serial was produced by Kohler in 1986.

The earlier manual 810399 has the 200, 300 and 400-Series except for the 420-LSE.

The later one you have 810437 has the 300 and 400-Series including the 420-LSE.

The wiring diagrams in each for the 310 models are identical.

Why do you think the 810473R1 operator manual/wiring is wrong for what you have?

Suspect your mower is a 1987 model 05-42MS05 as the 69271 serial is consistent with other 1987 models. So far the 1986 serial numbers have not got that high.

Since many of the mower manuals are shared with similar models the height adjustment is on the left for the 48" models and on the right for the 42" models.

Did not know the 810403 and 810407 mower manuals even existed and see no record of them at Toro. Do you have any means to scan them? Would love to have copies.

I may have missed something here and will post again if I did.

Garry

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can whlvr

i would put a voltmeter on the lead to the head lights,its a good chance it could be a bad ground or bulbs,like allready stated your tractor has a separate stator to run the headlights,if the engine is not running you get no lights and they will dim when you slow the rpms

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kick

My 310-8 numbers

TRACTOR-- 21-10K805 28318

ENGINE-- MODEL# M10S, SPEC# 461521, SERIAL# 1727510934

DECK-- 05-37SC01 82431

Lights need engine running to come on. I have electronic ignition correct?

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gwest_ca

My 310-8 numbers

TRACTOR-- 21-10K805 28318

ENGINE-- MODEL# M10S, SPEC# 461521, SERIAL# 1727510934

DECK-- 05-37SC01 82431

Lights need engine running to come on. I have electronic ignition correct?

Thank you.

You have the dual charging circuits - AC for the lights and a 3amp to charge the battery.

You have electronic magneto ignition.

Another 21-10K805 with serial 28694 has a build date of 7345 which is Friday December 11, 1987 and yours is 376 units earlier.

Garry

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tunahead72

Garry -- Good information here, thanks very much, just have a few clarifications.

The 21-10K802 you have is a 1986 model and so is 21-10K803.

The 21-10K803 also shows up in my parts/service manual 810405R1. I just looked through, pretty carefully but not exhaustively. The only difference I can see between the 10K802 and 10K803 is in the transmission -- different left and right case numbers, possibly to accommodate different inner axle bearings (40 mm ID #111199 in the 10K802, 1-1/2" ID #1533 in the 10K803)?

The earlier manual 810399 has the 200, 300 and 400-Series except for the 420-LSE.

The later one you have 810437 has the 300 and 400-Series including the 420-LSE.

The wiring diagrams in each for the 310 models are identical.

Why do you think the 810473R1 operator manual/wiring is wrong for what you have?

I haven't seen manual 810399, can somebody quickly provide a link? I'll look on my own later if nobody comes up with one.

The 810437 manual is not the one I have (be careful of transposing the last two digits :wh: ), but it is the one that was posted earlier in this thread, and seems to match my tractor/engine/ignition much closer.

The manual I have is 810473R1, which covers the following models:

  • 308 8-speed
    310 8-speed
    312 8-speed & automatic
    414 8-speed
    416 8-speed
    418 8-speed, automatic & 418-C (?)

The 810473R1 manual is not the correct one for my tractor. Major differences:

  • It specifies a Kohler Magnum M10S engine, not the K-series K241S in my tractor.
    It specifies electronic ignition, I have points/condenser.
    It has a different wiring diagram, which shows 6 contacts on the ignition switch (mine has 5, which matches the drawings in my parts/service manual 810405R1).
    It specifies VIN plate location as left side of fender, mine is on front.

Did not know the 810403 and 810407 mower manuals even existed and see no record of them at Toro. Do you have any means to scan them? Would love to have copies.

Maybe, where would these end up ultimately?

==> By the way, I'm really just a newbie at forums, but this part of the original thread seems to be getting off-topic -- just wondering if it should be separated out and started as a new "310-8 documentation" thread? Did I ask this question already? :thumbs:

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tunahead72

So, Jay, what's new with YOUR 310-8? :thumbs:

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skeggordon

So, Jay, what's new with YOUR 310-8?

Hello Ed,

Just got done mowing my lawn for the first time! It looks good. :thumbs: Most of the lawn is on a slope, so got on a little learning curve. Found it would go up a slope better than down a slope. I'll post some pictures of the lawn soon. There is one steeper section, the tractor motored right up it without spinning out, this is good. Used 1st gear, high. Will try 2nd gear once I get in a little more practice.

Yours, Jay Gordon

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tunahead72

Jay,

Good to hear you've got her working. I'm running a little behind, the grass is ready but I'm not. Pretty close, though, it's running and driving real nice, just not mowing yet.

Be REALLY careful on those slopes. It does take a while to get used to the feel of a new tractor, whether you're going up/down or across the hill. Just be aware of your traction and when it feels like you're losing it. :thumbs:

And make sure your brake is adjusted properly, nice and tight so you stop when you need to, not so tight that it drags. There's instructions in the manual, it's pretty easy.

Have fun!

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gwest_ca

tunahead72

I tried to pick the quotes from the quotes and could see I was going to mess that up also.

You are correct on the manual numbers. I've looked at them too long.

The 810473R1 manual you have is for mainly 1987 models plus the 1988 414-8 and 416-8 according to Toro.

If the 310-8 wiring shows the dual circuit 3 amp charging system with magneto ignition that is the one we are looking for. The diagrams in the 523 page Demystification Guide we can download from Toro are wrong.

The 810399 manual is in the Files of

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals3/

and named

Tractor 1986 300-Series OM #810399R1.pdf

If you can scan and upload the 810473R1 to the same Group that would make many people happy. Each Group will hold 100MB and it is at 95MB now so if it is larger than 5MB I need to make room for it.

The mower manuals are in 3 Groups

Rotary up to 38" are in

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals5/

99% full - need more room

Reel, Rotary 48-60", Sickle and Vacuums

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals5_1/

68% full

42" Rotary

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals5_2/

55% full

First chance I get I have to move files.

Garry

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tunahead72

The 810473R1 manual you have is for mainly 1987 models plus the 1988 414-8 and 416-8 according to Toro.

If the 310-8 wiring shows the dual circuit 3 amp charging system with magneto ignition that is the one we are looking for.

This makes sense, based on what the dealer originally told me.

I'm really weak on reading wiring diagrams, so I can't completely verify that the one in my 810473R1 manual shows a "dual circuit 3 amp charging system". I can tell you it's different than the one in my (proper) parts/service manual, and it does show a magneto and a different ignition switch (6 prongs vs. the 5 actually on my tractor).

One minor question: I've seen a cover page for the 810399 manual, and I've downloaded a copy of the later 810437 manual. I've been told that they both cover the 1986 model year, and I also see that they cover slightly different models. From a 310-8 point of view, are they identical?

I'll get back to you about scanning and uploading my documents to you -- I can't get to it right away, but later this week shouldn't be a problem.

:thumbs:

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skeggordon

Here's a few pictures of the yard that was just mowed for the first time with Wheel Horse power. The yard has a steep section, but the tractor went right up it. Luckily there is a sort of a landing at the top of the yard so the tractor can get turned around with out tipping sideways. Will supply some pictures showing the tractor on the slope next time.

Lawn2011-1.jpg

It is tough to capture the slope with a picture.

Lawn2011-2.jpg

Here you can see the stripes left when I tried to go down the steep section.

Well, could be a somewhat boring post, watching grass grow and all, but what the heck.

Yours, Jay Gordon

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gwest_ca
I'm really weak on reading wiring diagrams, so I can't completely verify that the one in my 810473R1 manual shows a "dual circuit 3 amp charging system".

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tunahead72

The dual circuit charging systems are easy to recognize on the diagrams because the headlamp switch is powered by a wire that comes directly from the engine stator. It is not rectified so often labeled as an AC (alternating current) circuit.

This is what my 810473R1 manual shows, so I believe it's what you're looking for. This same manual shows a similar setup for the 308/310/414 models, and a different layout (headlights powered by battery, rectified?) for the 312/416/418 models.

--------

The information you gave on the oil capacities/dipsticks and the low oil switch cleared up a bit of confusion I've had for years. I've always seen 2 quarts listed as the capacity for my K241S, but my Wheel Horse always takes more than that. When I change my oil, I usually refill with 2 quarts, let it run for a while until it's warm, let it settle, and then top it up (and keep it topped up) as necessary. My dipstick is currently reading just under halfway between the "add" and "full" marks, after filling with a total of 2-1/4 quarts and mowing for about 2 hours.

Which bring up a couple of questions -- how did Wheel Horse increase the capacity to 2-1/2 quarts, and how do I know if I have the correct dipstick for my machine?

Also, is the low oil switch maintenance that you describe easy enough for a homeowner / non-mechanic like myself to do? I was told, by a mechanic whose judgment I DON'T trust any more, that it would be necessary to tear down the engine to remove that switch -- apparently this isn't so?

And finally, are the bulletins you listed available from the Yahoo Wheel Horse group?

And, and -- just kidding, I'm done for now. :thumbs:

Thanks!

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tunahead72

Garry,

PM sent.

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Duff

Which bring up a couple of questions -- how did Wheel Horse increase the capacity to 2-1/2 quarts, and how do I know if I have the correct dipstick for my machine?

Also, is the low oil switch maintenance that you describe easy enough for a homeowner / non-mechanic like myself to do? I was told, by a mechanic whose judgment I DON'T trust any more, that it would be necessary to tear down the engine to remove that switch -- apparently this isn't so?

Hi, Ed,

Let me take a stab at your questions in reverse order.

First, removing the oil switch does NOT require tearing the engine down unless I'm completely off-base. On both my 312's and my 310, all with Magnum engines, the oil switch is screwed into the base of the block much the same as a drain plug (and if you get rid of the switches like I did, you simply replace them with the appropriate sized drain plug - sorry - I don't thave the size in front of me here at work). If you take a switch out and put it back in or replace it with a new one, then there is a particular way of doing it that's spelled out in the manual. Basically it's because the switch

As to the 2 vs. 2-1/2 quart controversy, I run all my engines just a skosh over the "full" mark on the dip stick to compenstate for a moderate hill in my yard. It takes just a hair over 2-1/2 quarts. So far I'm not blowing oil out anywhere and I've never had an engine get noisy climbing the hill because it was starving for lubrication.

Just my two cents on the subject.... :wh:

Duff :thumbs:

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gwest_ca

Which bring up a couple of questions -- how did Wheel Horse increase the capacity to 2-1/2 quarts, and how do I know if I have the correct dipstick for my machine?

Also, is the low oil switch maintenance that you describe easy enough for a homeowner / non-mechanic like myself to do? I was told, by a mechanic whose judgment I DON'T trust any more, that it would be necessary to tear down the engine to remove that switch -- apparently this isn't so?

And finally, are the bulletins you listed available from the Yahoo Wheel Horse group?

And, and -- just kidding, I'm done for now. :thumbs:

Thanks!

Starting 1986 and on they simply added another 1/2 quart to the original 2 quarts.

The original long 2 quart dip stick is Kohler part number 47-038-16

The new shorter 2-1/2 quart dipstick is Kohler part number 47-038-18

The part number should be on the dipstick.

You can raise the add mark on the long 47-038-16 dipstick 1" and raise the full mark 7/8" to get the same marks of the new short stick.

One should be able to remove the switch following the instructions in the psb. If the float happens to get broke off the oil pan needs to be removed.

My one switch still works so have never removed it but I should.

Garry

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skeggordon

As to the 2 vs. 2-1/2 quart controversy, I run all my engines just a skosh over the "full" mark on the dip stick to compenstate for a moderate hill in my yard. It takes just a hair over 2-1/2 quarts. So far I'm not blowing oil out anywhere and I've never had an engine get noisy climbing the hill because it was starving for lubrication.

Hello Duff,

I recall reading that the Kohler Magnum 10 could operate at up to a 30 degree angle. Do you think that is higher that it should be? The tractor has to work on a definite slope here.

Yours, Jay Gordon

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