TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #1 Posted May 21, 2008 I had built one of these a few years ago so I could use a newer 42" SD deck on my 1056, but a member at my Yahoo group needed one, so I ended up selling it. It's actually nothing more than two 7 1/2 inch long pieces of 1/4" X 2" flat steel and a front hitch from a 1972/73 & newer WH, and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the OEM kit - which is practically extinct. This can also be used on the 1970/71 tractors just by cutting the back out of the hitch to clear the hood hinges and clearancing the top for the hood to open - or by completely removing the hood hinges from the front of the frame and using the pivot rod holes in the front hitch to attach the hood. (just like the later models) The hitch only sits out about 5/16" more than the newer tractors, so the OEM length deck drive belt can still be used. After a suitable front hitch is located, here is the procedure. The first step is to find some 1/4" X 2" flat steel and cut to a rough length of 7 1/2". Using the two front holes on the sides of the frame as a pattern, lay out, centerpunch, and drill two 3/8" holes in each piece: The upper corners on the back side of the hitch need clearanced for the hood hinge plate on the '65 to '69 tractors. I also ground the area at the bolster pin hole to clear the e clip. This particular front hitch is from a C-101. (Test fit the hitch by placing the 3/4" hole over the end of the bolster pin and holding it firmly against the axle mounting plate on the front of the frame): Bolt the side plates to the frame using flat washers as spacers: Locate the front hitch over the end of the bolster pin, push it back tight against the front frame plate, and clamp the three pieces together. (there should be a small gap between the hitch and the plates - it's a great place to lay a bead!) Verify that everything lines up correctly and tack weld the side plates to the hitch: Remove the 4 bolts, pull the hitch off the tractor, and finish welding. Grind the welds if they are ugly like mine, or just for a nice appearance. : Blast, prime, paint, powder coat, chrome plate, or whatever you desire, then reinstall the finished hitch to the frame. (without the "spacer" washers) : Snap the deck belt tensioner, snowthrower, etc. into the hitch just like on the "new" ones! : TA-DA! (The best part of the "TT" front hitch is that it stays together when removed from the tractor. ) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 151 #2 Posted May 21, 2008 Great step-by-step plans TT ! Thanks for the info! :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #3 Posted May 23, 2008 Well, I thought about doing this But ended up buying the OEM hitch for a lot of money Awesome job on the step by step! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twohorses 2 #4 Posted July 19, 2014 Six years later and I just finished one. I used a local weld shop but did the rest myself. Thx for these plans. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UncleJerm76 103 #6 Posted November 1, 2017 On 5/21/2008 at 2:26 PM, TT said: and a front hitch from a 1972/73 & newer WH Great write up! Does anyone know the what the outside width of one of these front hitches is (before these brackets are welded on)? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,406 #7 Posted November 1, 2017 @TT do you still have these old pics? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #8 Posted November 2, 2017 11 hours ago, CasualObserver said: @TT do you still have these old pics? Yes sir...... Currently fighting with photobucket for their release. Stay tuned. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #9 Posted November 2, 2017 Got the pictures reinstalled. Didn't get an overall width dimension on the front hitch though. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
