Fabricated Tie Rods

[Giles 2]

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n498/Yelrug/P4050017.jpged to fabricate these for my C175

I made these for my C175--

The Tie Rod Ends are Stens 245-068 All are Right hand 3/8-24 thread. I cut off the heads of three bolts and welded them inside a 3/8 sch. 40 pipe.

While welding the studs, I decided that a long length of 3/8-24 all thread, could be slipped through a section of pipe after running a 3/8 drill bit through it. That would require no welding. The pipe would then be used for cosmetic purposes. I already had the bolts and some scrap pipe.

My total cost was less then $30.00 for the Rod Ends.

[Kelly 1,028]

much better than factory, looks good.

[145Automatic 7]

Nice bit of fabrication. They look good and you gained some adjustability that you didn't have before. Thanks for sharing.

[cpete1 331]

Really nice work, but why the "divets" in the ends. Was that before you welded the bolts ? Just curious not meaning to downgrade anything, looks like a great idea.

Thanks Chris

[Giles 2]

Really nice work, but why the "divets" in the ends. Was that before you welded the bolts ? Just curious not meaning to downgrade anything, looks like a great idea.

Thanks Chris

I am not a good welder. The tubing was ground that way to expose the inner stud for welding.

[JC 1965 1,528]

:wh: Great idea, I'm always amazed at the ideas you guys come up with. Thanks for sharing. :thumbs:

[Kilroy 0]

I am definitely going to do this! Thanks for sharing your ingenuity.

:thumbs:

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

or

just place a continuous piece of threaded rod thru the outer 3/8 shell and save the work on shaving the bolt heads.

one divot in the shell will provide you with a weld point to fasten the rod to the outer tube

or if you don't have a welder ...

drill two holes thru the shell and inner rod and roll pin the rod inside the shell.

if the threaded ends ever get stripped, the roll pin method offers the flexibility to knock out the two roll pins - redrill a new piece of threaded rod and re-pin. And you don't even have to repaint the outer tube :thumbs:

[JimD 3,345]

Quote:

While welding the studs, I decided that a long length of 3/8-24 all thread, could be slipped through a section of pipe after running a 3/8 drill bit through it. That would require no welding. The pipe would then be used for cosmetic purposes. I already had the bolts and some scrap pipe.

No need for welding or roll pins.

Giles, thanks for sharing your idea, excellent!! :D

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

No need for welding or roll pins.

welding, roll pins or an extra pair of nuts would take away any need for critical measurement of the length of the outer shell over the threaded rod.

I know someone published a nice writeup on tie rods a few weeks back but the length of the center tubing had to be measured / precisely cut AFTER the wheels were aligned.

The tie rod HAD TO BE disassembled to put the center tube back on the tie rod.

Pick your poison.

[Coadster32 793]

Looks good. Nice fab. work. :thumbs:

[Duff 206]

I know someone published a nice writeup on tie rods a few weeks back but the length of the center tubing had to be measured / precisely cut AFTER the wheels were aligned.

The tie rod HAD TO BE disassembled to put the center tube back on the tie rod.

Guilty as charged!

Duff :thumbs:

[JimD 3,345]

No need for welding or roll pins.

welding, roll pins or an extra pair of nuts would take away any need for critical measurement of the length of the outer shell over the threaded rod.

I know someone published a nice writeup on tie rods a few weeks back but the length of the center tubing had to be measured / precisely cut AFTER the wheels were aligned.

The tie rod HAD TO BE disassembled to put the center tube back on the tie rod.

Pick your poison.

Well, you didn't mentioned nuts in your first post. Obviously the best choice. No welding or roll pins needed. I would have thought a squirrelly dude such as yourself would have thought of nuts first! :thumbs: