first oil change

[NolanMVP 8]

I am just about to change oil in my Classic GT for the first time. The manual suggests using 10w30. I am wondering about using a synthetic, is it worth it, or should I just use conventional. Any certain brand I should buy? I currently run Wolfs Head 30 weight in my 310-8. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.

[kj4kicks 151]

At the risk of re-starting the great oil controversy.... I NEVER use synthetic in ANY air cooled engine.

Let the fight begin... LOL.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Knowing how Toro operates, I recommend calling your dealer and asking them what they suggest using.

I'm sure there's a warranty on both the tractor and engine, and I would do only as they say until that warranty has expired.

Neither one of the manufacturers are what they used to be, (as far as backing up their product) so I wouldn't give them any excuse to back out of their responsibility of correcting a problem.

[Confused99 2]

I personally am a big fan of synthetic oils. I use them in everything. My Honda push mower has had synthetic oil from the 1st oil change on and every fall, the oil comes out looking almost new. All of my mixed 2stroke gas is mixed with synthetic at 50:1. My cars have synthetic and are changed at 20K miles or 1 year. I can't say I have noticed a difference in any of them except my Harley. I bought it used and after changing it over to synthetic, it shifted smoother, ran smoother, and ran cooler. I have not changed the WH over yet. I plan on changing it first with dino oil and then shortly after, changing it to synthetic.

The only issue I have experienced with switching something over to synthetic is if there is an existing oil leak. The synthetic will make it leak worse but other then that, I highly recommend it

Also, my brand of choice is Amsoil.

Jason

[Curmudgeon 28]

For every person who swears by synthetic, there is another who will swear at them. Many will claim the flat tappets in these engines won't rotate properly, thus ADDING to the wear because of the superior lubrication qualities.

Go figure on that one!

I'd stick with what the manual says, if nothing else, like TT says, using ANYTHING other than what the manual says will void your warranty. While needing warranty work is unlikely, why void it?

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

I would used conventional oil, as TT and Dale mentioned, it's what the manual calls for. I used conventional oil in all my vehicles without any failures or problems. The main thing is to used the proper weight, level and do the scheduled oil changes. Just my 2 cents worth. :whistle:

[Nick 13]

For a new tractor/engine have to go with what everyone else said, use what the book lists. Wolfs head is a good brand so you could stay with that if you can find it in 10w30.

Kind of Interesting that in the big Synthetic oil discussions the bad part with synthetics was that they are too slick and caused problems. Then they removed zink from dino oil and it became not slick enough. SHould add Im just to cheap to try synthetic oil. I do use a synthetic blend from Motorcraft because Walmart sells it at about the same price or even lower than some conventional oils.

[Guest Chambley4]

I just changed the oil on my 2007 315-8 Classic for the first time (after 5 hours) and used 10W-30.

I simply did what the manual recommended.

I don't get all caught up in the exotic world of doing things that aren't recommended just for the sake of being able to spout how unconventional I am.

Life is complicated enough.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Ok i got sucked in on this discussion hook line and sinker. As in anything else the truth is out there. NO WARRANTY can be voided according to the MAGNUSON MOSS ACT. This act clearly states this, and is US Law. The only thing that a manufacture can state is the oil weight and API specifications. That part is easy.

If a manufacture tells me that, the first thing that happens is a BIG SMILE comes accross my face. I ask for them to show me that in writing. Ive never had them produce that in writing. If they would I would forward all the information to AMSOILS legal department. Yes I am an AMSOIL Dealer. I will say this, I have changed oil in about 8 small engines this year and every one of them I have had to idle down a tick or two after changing to AMSOIL. Less Friction? Thats the only thing I can explain has happened. Everyone I guess Is entitled to their own opinion and I have mine. The ASTM ratings is what a person needs to look at. In your automobile 60% of your cooling is done through the radiator the other 40% is done through the oil. Since most of the small engines we use donot have a radiator or oil filter much more cooling is done through the oil and the oil also has to deal with contaminates like acids and carbons. It is imperative that any engine has good lubrication.

If your useing your horse in cold weather realize that petroleum based oild freeze solid at 50 degrees below zero. AMSOIL pours at 60 degees below zero, I realize that it does not get that cold when we use our engines, however Since our engines rely on slinging the oild for lubrication useing conventional oil is like slinging GLUE.

Our Sheriffs department recently switched to AMSOIL as the story goes the Harleys we have (10) of them were being used in parades in the hot summer months. They were overheating, having detination, and just plain running like crap. our motorpool was useing the Reccomended "Harley Screamin Eagle Oil" so our Undersherriff had them change to AMSOIL since that day we have had no problems. And no I didn't make the sell someone else did.

Personally I think to much of my collection to try and chance it $ 6.00 for a quart IMHO is a small price to pay for proper lubication.

Cheers Duke

[HorseFixer 2,012]

The only issue I have experienced with switching something over to synthetic is if there is an existing oil leak. The synthetic will make it leak worse but other then that, I highly recommend it

[Curmudgeon 28]

Dang Duke, if the oil is doing the cooling in your engine, you must have a LOT more cooling fins on the oil pan than any of mine do! LOL

Synthetic does have it's places, but when I have an engine that's ran since 1967 and never seen anything but dino oil in it, I have to think dino oil isn't nearly as bad you try to make it. 41 years and running strong says a LOT more to me than what some legal department dreamed up that doesn't have a clue about engines, just papers.

The debate shall continue! Neither side giving an inch. LOL

[Confused99 2]

[rustbucket 4]

i use good old Military surplus 30 weight in my tractors and have for what seems forever and never ran into any problems. the stuff i get comes in monster 5 gallon steel cans with a pull out pour spout. ill see about getting a pic of the can one of these days.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Dang Duke, if the oil is doing the cooling in your engine, you must have a LOT more cooling fins on the oil pan than any of mine do!

[Confused99 2]

I will look for you Duke in July, that is sweet. Congrats!!!

Jason

[Curmudgeon 28]

Duke, I only have a couple of things to say. There is a place for synthetic, I run it in my pickup. Amsoil might very well be the best there is.

But you keep calling dino oil glue, and as far as I'm concerned, that blows your credibility. Dino oil has worked great for a lot of years in a lot of services, just because there might be something better, doesn't automatically make it GLUE. It's perfectly good OIL. Sure if I put oil on a piece of paper, and lay another piece of paper on it, it'll kinda stick. But it will with Amsoil too, so I guess that makes Amsoil glue too, doesn't it?

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Dale ezzze up doode The glue senerio is just my poke at the oil guyz! Its all good. Elmers, Testers, Tightbond, Gorilla Glue, Whatever your flavor. Personally I like the AMSOIL synthetic blend of glue!

Cheers Duke :D