Trouty56 565 #1 Posted March 14, 2011 I am working with a 69 Charger 10. This a solid state ignition (techy). Just a little different from what I am used to. A plug with 3 wires exits the engine. 2 are from the stator and I am not sure what the 3rd does. I do know that I was checking the ac voltage with all three wire disconnected and when I tried to turn the engine off at the switch it just kept running until I connected that third wire. LOL Does this schematic look correct?? From this it appears the lights and lighter are hot all the time. Thanks for any input... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdog_kustoms 82 #2 Posted March 14, 2011 the 3rd wire grounds out the solid state coil that is how the motor looses spark to shut down and the diagram looks correct m on the switch grounds threw the switch to the dash housing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #3 Posted March 14, 2011 Trouty, this area is a little visually confusing redrawn for better clarity it would look like this and to the third wire on the connector - yes - its is a kill wire that grounds the CHARGE COIL for the solid state ignition module. DO NOT APPLY 12VOLTS TO THE WIRE - It will toast the charge coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #4 Posted March 14, 2011 Ok guys...Thanks!! That explains why it did what it did. Doesn't it look like the lighter/lights are directly connected to the battery at the 'B' on the switch. There is no accessory post. Well it is what it is. I guess the lighter would pop out and if you let the lights on you'd see it... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse'n Around 22 #5 Posted March 16, 2011 Bob, I dont know if Im reposting anything that anyone has already posted or that you might already know but I just want to pass on a word of caution. If you are changing or did change the ign switch, make sure that you use the right one for your needs. I recently rewired my Raider and I bought the wrong key switch, I needed one that grounded the center wire which will kill the engine, however I bought one that put power to it. The connections on the back looked identical and everything but luckily TT saw what I had done when I posted the switch part # that I bought and he set me straight and told me that I had the wrong switch because it could have and should have fried my SS ign components. The Lord was looking out for me because I didnt harm my ign even though I started it momentarily. If I did repeat anyones information while writing this, please forgive me, I type like a turtle..really slow Thanks again TT, you saved the day for me John Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #6 Posted March 16, 2011 Hi John, I'm not going to change the switch yet.... I was more curious and had a need to learn something new. If I did purchase a switch though I want to thoroughly understand the electrical needs of this thing. SOI already posted about the warning you just gave hence the need to learn. Thanks for the input... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #7 Posted March 16, 2011 Guys, I promise, over the next few days, I'll put together a visual tutorial to explain the whole ignition switch issue. Maybe a few pictures to back up the talk will help clear a few things up. But for now, no 12 volts to the magneto coils or Techy SSI ignitions and remember "M" DOES NOT = "I" for the purpose of rewiring ignition systems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #8 Posted March 16, 2011 That would be a good idea cause the water is still a bit murky on this subject. Thank you.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites