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sgtsampay

V-twin Desiel or gas?

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Looks like 7.5 KW peak in the chart so 7.5/1.341 = 10.07 hp. If you want to do the conversion from torque / RPM here's the formula :

http://www.wisc-online.com/Objects/ViewObj...spx?ID=ENG17504

Exactly, I don't take issue with that part - it's that the power curve doesn't correlate with the torque curve above it where the torque at 7.5kW/10hp references about 25 N-m, which doesn't look right, it should read 19-20 N-m. I think what's happening is the hp curve is for 'continuous' duty not 'max' as labeled and the torque curve is peak, because the 2 don't seem to be consistent at the endpoints.

Anyways, enough of the number crap, that was more than I ever intended - go for the 13hp diesel instead, I say. At least you know its a continuous duty rating, probably peaks around 15-16 hp.

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Thanks guys for all of the help on this decision. I'm going to shoot for the 13Hp one but if money dictates i need to save $200-$300 then i will go with the 10HP. No matter which one i get, I will be in a better boat than my current briggs. :thumbs:

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It seems like small, air-cooled diesels are always more capable than their horsepower rating would show. Wheel Horse used an 8.5 hp diesel engine in the 512-D tractor and - presumably - likened its capability to a 12 hp gasoline engine. So I think assuming a 10 hp diesel churns out power similar to a 14-16 hp engine would be acceptable.

Typically, you'll see a 10 hp gas engine on a 5000 W generator. My 5000 watter has an 8.5 hp diesel. So I guess they have more "usable power" and can be run closer to their peak loading for longer periods of time.

I doubt you'll go wrong with either the 10 or the 13 for your application.

Yanmar - who makes the genuine engine on which these single cylinders are based - rates their L100 as a 10-hp engine. I would think - and this is only an opinion - that if they rate it as a 10 and not a 13 that there may be a reason. Might just be their being conservative, but who knows.

Anyway...size:

Here's a photo of a 10-hp Yanmar next to a 16 hp Kohler k341. The diesel is a bit larger and definately heavier.

DSC04893.jpg

and another view:

DSC04895.jpg

This Kohler would look a little bigger if it had the regular oil pan and not the one for the "shaker" mount. And the muffler on the Yanmar is giant.

I was happy with my clone. I don't have it anymore but wouldn't hesitate to get another. Side-by-side you would never mistake a clone for a real Yanmar, but they are (usually) pretty decent. A few lemons do exist and there is some bad press on them scattered around the net, but I was happy with mine.

I still haven't completed the transplants, but I do have a pair of Hatz engines and a pair of Yanmars waiting in line. And, I found a nice little VW turbodiesel that looks - using a tape measure anyway - like it might squeeze into a D250. :thumbs:

Good luck! :thumbs:

Steve

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Thanks for the infomation. How did you mount the PTO assy on it? Anything special? Also, what is need to hook up the trottle and the turn off key. Thanks for the help.

Lastly, any particular place I would have an easy time finding one? The best price I can find is a 10HP=$500+ and a 13HP=$900

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The diesel has no ignition system. The switch only operates the starter and isolates the charging system from the battery. You shut a diesel off by shutting off the fuel. Throttle it down all the way and it shuts off.

You'll have to do a little basic fabrication to mount the pto.

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Oh, I c. OK, no issues. Got any picture for me to go by with the PTO fab? I ask because I don't know for sure how they mount to begin with.

As far as the trottle, does that mount weird or? Also, the engien I'm looking at getting is from carol steam and they have glow plugs n there engines.

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I've been looking at buying a diesel for some time now, but this thread has sparked it even more, after some looking, lots of reading, when you buy one, check all the bolts to see if the are tight, some guys are tearing them apart to check every bolt, run the engine for about 2-3 min. and change the oil, the quality control on the china made engines is not very good, loose bolts, metal and sand inside the engine from the casting process and machining, re torque the head bolts after it has ran about 10 min. torque spec.'s are not going to be found so you will have to go with bolt size and torque to that, but with a few precautions they seem to be good engines for the most part.

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Thanks for the tidbit Kelly. Now know of any good sources to by them from or is carol steam the only good one?

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The diesel smell for me is also no biggy. I say this as my father is always was a master Diesel repair guy and I always huge around him at the shop and smell them all day and such. So it doesn't bother me. Also, when I use the farm tractor down at the farm last year, the diesel smell brought back memmors of my dad, so I enjoyed it.

Also, my brigg's exhaust smells really bad compared to other engines I have used in the past, so I even is the diesel stinks, I don't care. I really want the diesel for its large power band, great use of fuel and ease of maintence and initial cost. I think overall it will be a great thing to try and I can't wait to do it.

We just came back from the Philippines, and on their 'big' island of Palawan, the fishermen and all the tourist boats use nothing but the China clones. (Mainly the 6.5 hp ones.) I talked to two of them about it, and both said the hondas etc were way too expensive and besides, the Chinese engines lasted as long and some longer than the others. So I guess they are definitely more reliable....

The guy that took us around said his was about 3 1/2 yrs old and a few hundred hours on it each year...absolutely no problem with it....

zolt

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as being a diesel mechanic i can say and it has been proven that you will always get more horsepower hours per gallon than gasoline and usually be able to run at lower rpms on light projects than you can with a gasser.

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