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Docwheelhorse

Slipping Belt Issue--Any Experts?

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Docwheelhorse

Hello All,

I worked on and got my Trail Blazer 7 running very well (Walk Behind Snow Thrower)---Kinda a tractor right?? :ROTF::hide: ---but--- I am having trouble with the auger belt. The original equipment belt is a 4L 32" x 1/2" cogged unit with Wheel Horse part number 6506. This belt is NLA (But the two belts that drive the transmission FWD's and REV are still available---GO FIGURE).

I have purchased every type of belt in that configuration that I can find but none of them have been cogged. I have used a True Value $6 belt (2 hours and it was dead), A Napa A30 ($9 and lasted about 5 hours), An Advance Auto Dayco Heavy Duty Beige A320 (Looked like Kevlar and cost $12---didn't last 20 minutes), A Napa 4L320-W Heavy Duty Solid Green Belt ($15 and I got 30 feet out of it).

I have taken apart and checked everything and the tensioner looks fine, pulleys HAD some rust and pits (long ago) that was polished off and are now shiny but I cannot get this thing to hold onto a belt. Basically what I have is a traction issue---the belt starts off like gang busters and when the going gets tough it starts slipping...... worse and worse until the slightest bit of snow brings the auger to a stop.

I am thinking that the Wheel Horse cogged belt allows for a tighter radius around the crank pulley which is only about 2" in diameter and that will fix it. :banghead:

Any Ideas??? :thumbs:

Tony

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oldwhman

If those pulley's are polished as you said, i doubt any belt will hold. Try replacing the pulley as well as the belt. If all else fails change it over to sprockets and chain. Good luck

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grnlark

I know this is kind of a half a__ fix (maybe), but have you ever used that stuff to stop squeaky belts on a car? It's like mild spray adhesive. Or better yet, why not shoot the belt with some trim and tack adhesive, let it tack up and put it on. :banghead:

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Docwheelhorse

Hi--I was thinking about hitting the pulleys with sand paper but didn't know if that would work or simply speed up the belt getting worn to zippity do dah......

I could replace the auger pulley simple enough---its a regular 10" X 1/2" pulley with a 1/2" hub. But the crank pulley is cast iron and has two grooves. It is roughly 2" with a 1" bore and drives the auger and reverse... there is anouther pulley on the camshaft PTO that drives Forwards.....

There is no "reverse gear" in the transmissin. They simply spin the input backwards.

Tony

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Docwheelhorse

Also--changing to sprokets and chain would fix it--but no ability to de-clutch the auger is at a minimum dangerous and awful inconvenient when trying to turn all that stuff over when pull starting it. Plus see the above post about the crank pulley.

Tony

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squonk

If you only got 30 feet out of a Napa green belt you have something seriously wrong with that blower. I sold those belts for 10 yrs and they are almost indestructable. My 210-H has an Allis blower on it and I have a Green belt on that. It's a vertical engine with a horizontal blower drive. The belt is twisted to change the angle. I get 3 seasons out of one. I'm wondering if a pulley is so worn that a 1/2" belt is bottoming out.

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Docwheelhorse

Hello All,

well today I tore the unit all apart again and checked and double checked everything...... I then took one of the belts and wrapped it in sandpaper and polished any and all rust or imperfections off both pulleys. I also went back to NAPA and ordered a 32"x1/2" heavy duty COGGED belt.... just like what Wheel Horse put on from the factory. :thumbs:

I was talking with the guy behind the counter and he said the cogged belt allows for a tighter radius to the pulley and that it should help. He also said that the Green 4L320W Heavy Duty belt that started slipping almost instantly has a wire reinforcement in it to prevent stretching (hence the W on the end). That wire prevents the stiffer green belts from conforming to the tight radius of the 2" crank pulley and that was why it slipped.

While everything was apart I wrapped one of the belts around both pulleys and it does not bottom out.... there was approximately 1/16" protruding out the top of the pulley as it should. Heres to hoping the cogged belt helps...... I always thought the notches where to keep the belt cool but after reading the following I think this will solve everything---> "In terms of features, V-belts and V-ribbed belts may be double-sided, cogged, variable speed, anti-static, truly endless, or open-ended. A double-sided V-belt has a V-profile on both sides of belt and a hexagonal cross section. With a cogged V-belt, the inside of the belt is notched for gripping" this paragraph came from the following V Belt info site ---> http://www.globalspec.com/learnmore/motion...hanical/v_belts

Tony

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Buzz

Let us know how it works out. The belt on the 856 slips when wet, both the OEM and the green one. It gets wet when plowing while it's still snowing heavily. The snow hits the hood or engine, melts and soaks the belt. Maybe a cogged belt would work better in that instance.

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