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stevasaurus

pictures of k241 starter teardown

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I had a few starter issues on the B-100, so I decided to tear into it and see if I could un-broken it. This is more for those who have never taken a starter apart. This starter is found on the 10 - 16 Kohlers I think...but they are all pretty much the same. This one is called a "high mount" starter because the mounting bolts are underneath.

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From right to left...end cap assembly (with brushes)...frame...front end cap. Second row...armature...drive pinion...shield retainer...spring...pinion stop...hex nut. On the bottom are the through bolts.

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I should have read this sticker before I lightly tapped the starter with a hammer. Note to self...only tap on the end of the starter. :banghead:

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Three pictures of what the inside magnet should look like and what some of it looks like now. I am going to clean it and put it back together. It may not work because of the broken magnet or it may have a dead spot.

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Better shots of the end cap with brushes...there is a spring under the brushes, which keep the brushes up against the bottom of the armature.

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The hard part in putting this back together, is to hold the brushes in place while trying to place the armature. I fabed up four clips out of sheet metal for this purpose.

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Place the frame over the armature...line up the bolt holes and put on the front end cap...bolt together.

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Only things left are the pinion, washers and spring, and hex nut.

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Now it should look like when I started, with no parts left over. Need to put it back on the tractor and hope. I do intend to switch out this starter, because of the broken magnet, but I may have bought a little time.

 

Most of the starter problems on the Kohler engines can be fixed by taking off the starter and cleaning the shaft the pinion slides on with WD-40. When the pinion starts sticking, that's when you start wearing things out . You can usually see if the pinion is operating correctly just by looking down at the starter end. Hope you enjoyed and hope this will help some of you. :thumbs:

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Thanks Steve love the home made clips!!!!! Now Did it work!!!!!!!! :banghead:

re-unbroke :ROTF: :thumbs:

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Nice job Steve. The clips are very clever, and I fully intend to steal your idea. :banghead: Let us know how the bench test goes. :thumbs:

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Those clips worked great, Steve! :banghead:

I didn't realize there was that much magnet missing though. :thumbs:

Mind if I add this?:

~The helix for the drive gear should be cleaned, dried, and lubed with dry film lubricant or powdered graphite only - not anything that will attract dust and dirt. (like oil, grease, etc.)

~I usually put a dab of lithium grease in both bushings when assembling these starters.

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What do you use to hold the shaft while you snug up the nut :banghead:

Chas

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I have to give credit where credit is due...I had a conversation with TT on the phone before I did this. He mentioned that the banding iron on deck loads and making clips like this worked. I was going in the direction of a tool that had a slot so you could remove it after the brushes were seated. They actually make this tool, but I settled on what TT was talking about. Both will work...the sheet metal worked great in this presentation.

I used a pipe wrench on the pinion to hold the shaft while I tightened the hex nut. Not the easiest thing to do. I did not want to grab the star gear with a wrench if I did not have to. Be gentle. Talking about 115 inch pounds.

TT the lithium grease is exactly what they call for, and if anyone tears theirs apart, use that grease. I was just saying if the pinion is not bouncing back like it should...try some WD-40 to free it up...you will probably need the straw extension to get in there, and then do a PM on it in the spring. Not a bad job to do in the winter though...small part that fits on the work bench in the basement. A very easy one day fix. :banghead:

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Good job on the starter Steve, i've repaired a lot of those in the past. did the magnet try to suck the armature out of your hand when you put it back together?

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Good job on the starter Steve, i've repaired a lot of those in the past. did the magnet try to suck the armature out of your hand when you put it back together?

:thumbs: Yes you have torn some apart. Pulled the armature right up into the frame and I had to start over with the clips. I left the armature in the frame the second time with much better results. :banghead:

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Yes, does it work? If not, check with your local alternater shop they should have magnets to replace the broken one.

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Great post! Even better pics. I won't be so afraid to tear into a start now.

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2010_0105B-100starter0002.JPG

This square washer had turned a little and was shorting out the positive brushes against the end cap. Took this apart and re tightened. With a multi-meter (one side on the cap and the other on the positive brushes) you should not see a short. :ROTF: Put it back together and locked it in a vise. Used battery cables from a battery to the starter, and it works like a champ. :banghead: Tried it several times and did not have a dead spot...but this was with no load. Purrs like a kitten. I would say it is un-broken and I have amazed myself. :hide: COOL

I did stop at a very good NAPA yesterday, and they do not bench test starters anymore. :thumbs:

Thanks guys

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Steve,

My starter has been acting up all winter. It would spin, but the gear would not always move up to engage the flywheel. WD-40 wasn't working either. So, I went to Tractor Supply yesterday to buy a small sheet of sheet metal for $6. I cut 2 6" long and 1" wide strips, then cut those 2 strips in half for my brush holders. I then followed your tear down exactly for my starter. I also emery clothed the shaft nice and smooth and did a complete cleaning. Used the air compressor to blow out the residue and put it back together. She started right up nice and quick. I have a backup starter that I am going to do this to too.

Thanks for the great write up :thumbs:

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great post as most of these older engines it seems the starter acts up alot,i learned with the magnum models the starter is not bolted together when its not on the motor,the two bolts go all the way through into the bearing plate,i found this out the hard way one day :thumbs: pulled it off and then it fell apart all over the floor

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Micah... :thumbs:

Don...I have heard the horror stories with those starters. I don't know if I have any of them, but will surly watch out for the thru-bolt thingy. :D :wh:

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Nice job Steve. So can we all send our starters to you for repair, since you are retired and all that. :thumbs:

Dan

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Did this process to my back up starter today too :thumbs:

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I am not trying to Hi-Jack this thread,but I have some information about buying Kokler Starters.Now I have a C-165 Auto with a K341 engine Iwanted to replace the starter. I looked around for one, I did not want a used one, so I searched on ebay for one I found one for $60.00 and free shipping.so i bought it. P/N 45-098-11-S :D Great deal :wh: Look at this site you will under stand why.

http://www.rcpw.com/search/?quest=45-098-1....x=0&search.y=0

Now click on the Replacement Kohler 12 Volt Starter,you should get another screen showing details about the starter. Scroll down to the bottom you will see 13 teeth CCW 12 and so on.Now on the starters for 12and 14 hp P/N 45-098-7 have 10 teeth gears.Some Sites sell this starter for 10 through 16 HP. My original starter had 13 teeth on the gear.QUESTION will a 10 tooth gear do the job on a 16 HP engine :thumbs:

Chas

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No. Your starter will need the 13 tooth gear or it will not mesh with the ring gear on the flywheel.

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If that is the case these guys should not say they will work on a 16 HP engine :wh::thumbs:

Chas

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This starter is found on the 10 - 16 Kohlers I think...but they are all pretty much the same.

Sorry if my quoted statement is misleading or inaccurate. I did say "I think"...which translates to "I am not sure". This is the site where I got that thinking from. I really was not saying that the starters were the same... :thumbs: ...I was not buying...I was rebuilding.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1944-100-new...hp-sab0080.aspx

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