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strausbo

Breakin Procedure For Freshly Overhauled K-Series

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strausbo

:D One more question. I just rebuilt a K-241. What is the typical procedure for the first start of the engine? Is it ok to get it started and let it idle at it's idle RPM or should it be kept up on a high RPM throttle setting? I don't want to do any damage to the engine by not doing the right thing on it's initial start after rebuild. Thanks! :ychain:

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TT

Start it, listen for "strange" noises, adjust the carb (and ignition timing - if applicable or needed), check for oil leaks, and let it get up to operating temperature. (you can vary the throttle position)

Shut it off, let it cool, re-torque the head bolts, and check all of the other fasteners.

I usually change the oil after about an hour of operation, but after that, it's "back to normal".

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tmix

I'm pretty sure the manual recamends nodetergent for breakin 5 hours to seat everything than drain and fill 5w 30 t mix

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TT

I run non-detergent HD-30 oil in all of my splash-lubed engines year-round.

If I needed one for winter use, it would get 10W-30 non-detergent.

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Brrly1

I am not real sure but everyone has told me to use something that has the zinc and phosphate in the oil. I believe that the new motor oil has had these two additives removed from the motor oil that they sell these days. Only a suggestion that was told to me. I figured I would pass it along. Good Luck

See ya, Bye Burly :D

:ychain:

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Coadster32

After I redid my K181, I fired it up for about 30min. I didn't have the govener on it yet, so I tied a wire to the throttle, and brought the idle up a bit, and manually varied it also. After that, I re-torqued the head, and put the rest of the tractor back together. After the first snow storm plow job, approx. 3-4hrs running under load, I changed the oil. I used all Castrol 30W HD oil. Just seemed like common sence to me. :ychain:

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junkman

I believe that the zinc-phosphate reduces sliding friction like on the camshaft, and lifters/tappets. But probably helps to lubricate the cylinder walls too.

I know that when we build our dirt track motors (flat tappet small block Chevy's) we use non detergent SAE30 for assembly lube, and for the first couple of races after installation. And when we change the oil later we use detergent SAE30. I have also heard that gears will chop up the thickener in multi-weight oil, so we don't use it. Just a thaught. . .

As for rpm's on a pressure lubed SBC engine as soon as it fires up after a fresh rebuild, for the first 30 minutes or so you shouldn't let it drop below 2000 RPM's. If theres a problem you can certainly shut it off. But SHOULDN'T let it idle. When you fire it back up bring the rpm's up immediately.

After the first practice we re-torque the head bolts to spec after the engine cools.

I don't know how much of this would hold true for a splash-lubed Kohler, as i haven't torn into one, Yet.

Hope this helps! :banghead:

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strausbo

I have been using the Kohler oil in all of my Kohlers. What is the general feelings about the Kohler oil? :banghead:

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zieg72

I have been using the Kohler oil in all of my Kohlers. What is the general feelings about the Kohler oil? :banghead:

That is what I use in my 269H. I don't know if my Toro dealer was truthful but he led me to believe the Kohler oil had better lubricating properties for the valve train and didn't break down as easily in an air cooled situation.

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520HC

I've been using Kohler oil for my Kohlers for over 25 years,no problems.

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squonk

Kohler manual says use 30W Detergent oil service class SF or SG. I believe the oil sold today will have a higher service class. It says to run for 5 hours and drain it. Refill with 30W detergent SF or SG

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boatman

:banghead: Hi to all,

I have always used penzoil hd 30 in my tractors and put

thousands of hours on them and never had a motor failure.Also

use the same in my boat(28' chris craft) and have never had

problems. I think a key thing on a newly rebuilt eng is to very

rpm's for awhile until rings get set in. Good luck!

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WH nut

I always start and make sure everything is ok and do the super tune, Then run then hard, they way they are going to be worked. I have only done a couple hundred engines, gas , diesel small or large run them like you stole them

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Giles

I am not real sure but everyone has told me to use something that has the zinc and phosphate in the oil. I believe that the new motor oil has had these two additives removed from the motor oil that they sell these days. Only a suggestion that was told to me. I figured I would pass it along. Good Luck

See ya, Bye Burly :banghead:

:thumbs:

Here is the link about Zinc removal. Everyone should read this---http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

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