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dgjks6

k181 rebuild

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It's funny I have friends that do the same kind of things,I am happy to say I am smarter than that.

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I am now to the ring section. I got the three piece oil seal ring on without a problem. I got the others gapped and the direction figured out.

Now the chrome one goes on first, correct?

Someone please confirm, on the internet I have found both ways.

I will await your reply.

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The rings should have come with a sheet telling you which ring went where, and which way is up.

I dont think I have ever seen a chrome ring in any position other than the top groove, but I could be wrong on that.

After the oil ring, you should fit the second ring, and the top ring last.

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Now to the next questions. I got the rings on, compressed, and was about to place the piston and realized I did not put the rod on. Started over and put the rod on. Put piston on, rod on crank (in the correct direction), torqued appropriately, and put on oil pan.

Oil pan bolts were to go to 250 in/lbs, but my wrench only goes to 200, so I went to 200 plus a little.

The put the valves in and the stems need ground.

1 - how do I torque the 4th bolt on the oil pan? It has part of the block above it and I can not get the socket on, only a wrench. Is hand tight enough?

2 - how do you grind valves level? The intake only needs a scosh, but the exhuast valve needs maybe 1/16 of an inch off.

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To butt grind the valves you should do it on a valve grinding machine. But since you dont have one, you can use a bench grinder. True up your wheel first and make sure you hold your valve straight. Take a little at a time. To finish it out and make sure its flat use some emry paper on a flat sureface. Now the exhaust valve needing so much I would wonder if your valve seat is any good and in need of recutting. I cant tell from the pictures

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the valce seats were professionally ground. the ground a little off which makes the old intake valve a few thousandths off, but the old exhause valve was shot, so I ordered a new aftermarket one. Is seats perfect without the lifter in place, but when the lifter is and the engine is at TDC, the lifter holds the valve open slightly.

I have a grinder, but the wheel is rough. What type of wheel should I get for it?

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I'm not trying to discourage you from attempting the valve grinding, but it's not something you want to mess up.

If they aren't ground true, they will wear quickly - which means excess clearance.

If you grind too much off, you either have to cut the seats deeper and/or cut the valves, or buy new valves.

You might want to visit that auto machine shop again and ask if they'd mind helping you out with them.

Make absolutely certain that the followers are at the base of the cam lobes before measuring and/or grinding. (TDC on the compression stroke)

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I hate to sound new, but what are followers?

As I have the engine now the piston is at top dead center. The cranks rotates a few mm each way and the valves and piston don't move and the valves are completely closed.

I read on line to get a 1/2 piece of steel and drill a 5/16 hole in it with a drill press. Then place the valve stem through it and put in on a plate of glass with sand paper and start grinding.

Does this sound feasible?

I only need to take a few thousandths off the intake valve, probably sitting a little lower becasue the machine shop ground the valve seat to set the valve. The exhause valve is new and is a little longer. The seat was gound and the valve was ground so the seal is perfect.

Doea this make sense? I feel like I am getting close and don't want to mess it up now.

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The followers ("lifters") ride on the cam lobes. They are what push the valves open.

The hole through the round stock would work - if you have a lathe to face it and drill it with.

You can use a locking collar like the ones that hold the pedals to the footrest rod - but sized to the valve stem. Tighten the set screw just enough to hold it still, but not enough to gouge the stem.

If you choose to do this yourself, a good file is much more precise and controllable than free-hand grinding. You just need to make sure that the tip is flat and 90

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hey my wife saw that,said she wanted one of those. Then said she could keep me outside where I belong. :banghead:

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So I stopped at Sears and got the locking collar. Put it on the intake valve and took off .003". Crooked.

I still need to take off .004 to get in in spec, and take .020 off the exhaust valve.

I should have heeded TT's advice. My brother suggested a drill press with a sanding disc, mayber from a dremel.

I am also going to call the guy from North Hampton Crankshaft and see what he says.

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So time for the daily update and question.

I called the shop that did the block and a lady there (only person there in my previous trips was a guy by himself who said he can't find help) told me they don't grind valve stems and she directed me to a shop 40 minutes away.

So home I went and tried the drill press with a sanding pad and a grinding stone. Bad idea.

So I started on the intake valve that only needed .002 taken of. With a piece of glass, 150 grit sand paper, and a steady hand I was able to remove the .002. Valve is flat and level. Checked with micrometer and also checked in place. .006 will fit all the way around between the valve and lifter and the .007 will not.

So I try to put on the spring with my new valve compressor. How do you put the retainers in and how far do they go in. I just placed them on the bottom and let the spring collapse and they set in about 2/3 of the way. Is that correct?

Am I making any sense?

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I figured it out. I just inspected the exhaust valve set up and I see how it goes together.

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I got the valves on and the block painted.

Now for a question.

How does the stator attach to the bearing plate?

I don't rememebr and there are lots of holes on the bearing plate. Anyone got a picture?

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OK - time for the update.

I know I have said this before, but literally every step I have a question.

Here is the one for today:

This is the engine as it stands:

DSCF7003.jpg

Next step is to put on screen.

I have a box of bolts and trying to figure out what goes where is difficult. If I remember correctly, screws held on the screen. I have two sets of 4 screws that have black paint, so which one is it?

This set has some type of lock washers:

DSCF7005.jpg

DSCF7004.jpg

They both fit, and I looked at the parts guide and as always am still clueless.

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The ones with the 'Lock Washers' are for the Grass Screen.

I assume you sorted the Stator fixings?.

Regards

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The ones without the washers look like they might be lower dash or "console" cover screws. :banghead:

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Thanks - will label those as such and put aside.

I also took the ones with the rings to home depot and got some stainless ones. A little bling for me.

Yes I got the stator bolts sorted. The screws were smaller than the rest, so I just looked for screws that were not painted, in the right size, and came in a set of 4.

Now to the next 2 questions:

1 - the guy who did the machine work recommended strongly new grade 8 bolts for the head. I found 5 head bolts for 7 slots. Anyone got a picture of a k181 head?

2 - every morning a read about static timing the engine. How do I tell when the piston is at TDC with the head off? I searched the flywheel and see no marks.

I am sorry of these are stupid questions.

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I painted the shrouds today. Tomorrow time to install the blower housing. The manual says to "install the spark plug lead and kill lead into the slots in the baffle."

Anyone got a picture - or a good description of this? I can probably figure out the spark plug lead, but I don't even remember a kill lead.

Would a k341 have a similar set up? I can drag it out and check if I need to.

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Engines with battery ignition don't have a kill lead or a spark plug lead under the blower housing.

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Engines with battery ignition don't have a kill lead or a spark plug lead under the blower housing.

:thumbs:

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I have a friend who is rebuilding a k181, almost has the engine done and does not know what type of ignition system and charging system he has. HE asked me if I knew. Can you believe that? I think he is in over his head but he won't give up.

I told him everyone knows what type of ignition system he has. Its obvious. He bet me no one on Red Square would know what type of ignition system he has. I told him I bet they would.

So what do you guys think?

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I have a friend who is rebuilding a k181, almost has the engine done and does not know what type of ignition system and charging system he has. HE asked me if I knew. Can you believe that? I think he is in over his head but he won't give up.

I told him everyone knows what type of ignition system he has. Its obvious. He bet me no one on Red Square would know what type of ignition system he has. I told him I bet they would.

So what do you guys think?

I'm with you I bet everyone knows that.Lets just see.

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