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hounddoghundzsa

My poor Gt14.........

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hounddoghundzsa

About a month ago while I was cutting the grass my battery hold down wiggled itself loose. This caused the battery to in effect "short out" when the + terminal came in contact with the hood hinge. This in turn apparently melted the wiring going to the ignition and back to the condensor. First question - Do I just need to replace the wiring or is the coil, condensor, points and ignition fried now? and second - does anyone know where I can get a printable diagram?? Any help would be appreciated - I've now got probably a foot and a half of snow in the drive and it's still coing down!

:ychain:

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hounddoghundzsa

And for you WheelHorse Electricians out there - How would you begin to tackle this project? Repairing Electrical problems is not one of my strong points....

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rmaynard

And for you WheelHorse Electricians out there - How would you begin to tackle this project?

If you were closer, I'd say load it up and bring it over to me. We'd rewire it together. However, that's not an option, so I'd begin by getting a good multi-meter and start testing components. Determine what wiring was damaged and what wasn't. The wiring on your GT14 is pretty straight-forward and simple.

If in doubt, take it out.

I'm sure Chuck (SOI) will add his expertise, but until then, the multi-meter in the "continuity check" mode is where to begin.

Bob

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hounddoghundzsa

I don't have a multi-meter, but I have a good continuity tester - I guess I'll start with that... Thanks

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Kelly

If it was me I'd pull the wiring and put all new in, just be sure to use good wire, correct size, good terminals even if the crimp ons, I use the unshielded, and use shrink tubing to make them clean looking

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hounddoghundzsa

If it was me I'd pull the wiring and put all new in, just be sure to use good wire, correct size, good terminals even if the crimp ons, I use the unshielded, and use shrink tubing to make them clean looking

Thats most likely what I will do, once I figure out what all got fried. I think I'm also going to look into some type of inline fuse to prevent this from happening again. Would you think 10 ga wire would be plenty heavy enough? None of the diagrams show what gauge is used.

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hounddoghundzsa

I replaced all the burnt up wires solinoid - ammeter - ignition - coil. Also replaced coil, condensor and spark plug. Now engine cranks but I can't get any spark. Could the short have burnt up the points?? I'm getting power to the coil both sides when the key is "on". :thumbs:

Gotta get this one going and get my garden turned over.

Thanks!

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smoreau

Sounds like the points got burnt. or are dirty. Pull the cover off and check them. that is easy and you don't need the cover on for it to run. Spin the motor over by hand and check if they are opening and closing. if they are then use a screw driver to spread them apart just enough so you can see what the contacts look like. if they look bad then you might be able to clean them with some emery cloth or fine sand paper. after cleaning and you have every thing hooked up right you should have spark. If you tried to adjust them then the timing may be off and then there is more to do.

:wh: :thumbs:

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Brrly1

Scott for as cheap as you can get a set of new points, I would suggest a set of new points and condensor. Wait you said you already replaced the condensor. Get a new set of points an don't worry about it. You have already replaced everything else. Good Luck :thumbs:

:wh:

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hounddoghundzsa

Scott for as cheap as you can get a set of new points, I would suggest a set of new points and condensor. Wait you said you already replaced the condensor. Get a new set of points an don't worry about it. You have already replaced everything else. Good Luck :thumbs:

:wh:

I took the cover off the points today. The rubber grommet, wire insulation and plastic thread (on the back of the spring) were all melted. I'll be stopping by NAPA on my way home tomorrow. Lets hope this journey ends tomorrow....

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smoreau

sounds like you found the problem :D I think you will be able to plow this weekend! Good luck :wh: :thumbs:

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hounddoghundzsa

I picked up one of those adjustible cultivators and double gang brinly discs over the winter, so i'm anxious to try them out too!

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Save Old Iron

See,

you guys don't need me.

Take a deep breath, use sight, sound, and smell as your first troubleshooting steps.

Add a good measure of sensibility and blend.

Let SOI sleep late this morning.

soisleeping.jpg

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hounddoghundzsa

What do the letters (prongs) "V" and "R" Go to?? :thumbs:

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Brrly1

Scott, I was kind of hoping that either TT would jump in or S.O.I. might possibly jump in . I am going to be doing the same thing here really soon. Battery ignition GT14 with fresh 16 hp Kohler. It has been kind of crazy around here two many things going on and only one person to do it all. Keep your fingers crossed maybe one of the electrical wizards might happen to stop by. :thumbs:

:wh:

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hounddoghundzsa

I printed up the diagram, but it seems like either the ignition was changed at some point or the diagram is just way to vauge as to where each wire gets plugged into the ignition.

This one on ebay is the one that's in my tractor:

http://cgi.ebay.com/7280-Ignition-Switch-T...262543954651784

7280 - Ignition Switch Toro/Wheelhorse 103991,33-398

Thanks John

Scott

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Save Old Iron

Scott,

there is a problem with using the ignition switch you have chosen.

The switch on ebay is for a MAGNETO based ignition system and not a COIL based system.

The START position on a magneto based switch WILL NOT SUPPLY 12 VOLTS TO THE COIL in the start position. That is why you can crank the engine but no ignition. On a magneto based system, as long as you can remove the magneto kill wire from ground, spin the engine and get gas in there, it will start and continue to run. Not so with a coil based system.

To test if your engine actually will fire, connect the coil + terminal directly to the battery (with a jumper cable) and start the engine. If it fires and runs, great !

You can then stop the engine from running further by disconnecting the jumper lea from the battery (+) terminal, Without power to the coil, the engine will stop.

I never had the pleasure of working with a GT14 and I do not know the configuration of the original switch, but if you currently have a coil based ignition system,

YOU NEED AN IGNITION SWITCH FOR A COIL BASED SYSTEM.

Something off an older C series w/ coil ignition should work just fine.

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Save Old Iron

switch terminal comparison

Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand)

post-96-1302610271.gif

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hounddoghundzsa

Scott,

there is a problem with using the ignition switch you have chosen.

The switch on ebay is for a MAGNETO based ignition system and not a COIL based system.

YOU NEED AN IGNITION SWITCH FOR A COIL BASED SYSTEM.

Something off an older C series w/ coil ignition should work just fine.

I understand what your saying, but the weird part is this is not a new switch, this is the one that was already in it before the big melt down. It worked perfectly before. :thumbs:

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Save Old Iron

Scott,

I understand your curiosity about the switch but the fact is something caused your whole system to melt down. At this point in time, and the with the distance between us, I cannot explain to you exactly why your whole system melted down.

But I can tell you what will work. The solution is a $12 ignition switch.

If times are tough, I will put a correct new switch in the mail for you at no charge.

To move this whole repair forward, we have to stop discussion on what melted down yesterday and go with what will work today. :thumbs:

Let me know.

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TT

It worked perfectly before. :thumbs:

Sounds like everything melted because the battery shorted to ground, Chuck.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

@ Scott:

For what it's worth..............

A "ground to kill" - or magneto style switch can be made work on a machine with battery ignition, BUT you have to know it's there - or you just have to be lucky. :D

Ignition power can be fed to the coil from the "A" terminal of the switch, but since that terminal is powered only when the switch is in the run position, you have to hold the key in the "start" position until the engine is turning over fast and then quickly let the key return to the "run" (or "on") position so power is applied to the coil before the cranking speed drops too much.

Naturally this doesn't work well on a hard-starting engine - or one with a weak starter.

As stated before - get a switch for battery ignition and make it easy on yourself. :wh:

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