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mavfreak

All I did was change the steering wheel!

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ok now I got your attention.

Yes I did change out the steering wheel but I really don't think that caused this.

Last night i was out with my C161 twin taken the baby for a ride around the yard.

I put the tractor away no problems. Now today I got my steering wheel and went out to garage to put on (getting old one off sucked had to cut into pieces) Anyway when I got done my little girl want to go for another ride I never one to say no for a horse ride grabbed her up and went to start. Now to our surprise it backfires, not good while holding a 2 year old.

The tractor won't start at all(sounds like a old hit and miss engine) and backfires with flame out carb.

I need to know what keeps this briggs twins in time?

How do I check the timing?

What caused this, in your opinion.

And am I right in thinking the timing is out?

:thumbs:

PS I need to try to fix this soon befor snow flys and my daughter is scared to death now cause it was loud. I feel like such an ass

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Possibly the intake valve is held open slightly or the key sheared between the flywheel and crankshaft?

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I was thinking that maybe it was the key I just never had one just fail. there was always something leading up to that.

I'm waiting for the wife to get home and I'm goin to take apart to see.

Hope its just a keyway. thats an easy fix.

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The key is a great place to start. I know on the verticle shaft briggs, the valve seats, and sometimes keepers give you a bit of trouble. Not sure on the horizontals though.

I start my tractors up before I get my young kids on with me. (They get scared a little on start-up also)

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I tore into it tonight. Unfortunately a PO had broke of a bolt in the flywheel. So I have to drill it out to get off the flywheel. I did try to do a compression check but my tester would not seat into the plug hole. I do think I have a valve stuck cause there isn't hardly any compression (can turn over by hand three good revolutions before I get any compression) and the compression on one side blows out the carb. I will be taking out the engine tomorrow and pulling the heads of to see about valves.

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Any one with any knowledge of these briggs twins please feel free to chime in here. I Have redone some single Briggs but never a twin,

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ok i hooked up the vacuum gauge to it 10 inches is all it would pull. and the needle fluctuates erratically. so my thoughts are broken valve or stuck open.

am I off base here?

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The opposed flathead twins are really nothing more than two flathead singles sharing a common crankshaft.

A compression gauge would be ideal, but since yours won't work, try sticking your finger in the hole and turning the engine over. (you should feel some kind of difference if one of the two cylinders dropped drastically)

If it was mine, both heads would have been off of it by now. :thumbs:

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yeah I'll be doing that tomorrow but right not I got tree girls and a wife pulling me in every direction but the garage!

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ran out and tried the finger thing with no noticeable difference between cylinders

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Hmmmmm............ :thumbs:

As previously mentioned:

As soon as you can get to the flywheel key, check it before doing a major tear-down.

The key takes a beating from the torque of the starter - and if the flywheel was just a tiny bit loose on the taper, the key will shear (sometimes just a little) and throw it out of time.

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Ah yes the famous flywheel key!! Use to cary them around in my pocket :thumbs:

Chas

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all right I need advise bad.

The flywheel is not giving up. I have bent or broke every 5/16 bolt I have and destroyed two pullers and have used maybe half a can of thrust rust eater. and the flywheel is still on there as tight as can be. If you listen real hard you can here it laughing at me.

Whats the trick?

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Did you remember to hit the head of bolt in the center of the puller while there was pressure on it? I am sure you probably know about that, but sometimes when thers a lot going on, little tricks like that can slip ones mind.

I hope that you get the flywheel off soon so you can fix Yer Horse.

John

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i know some people frown on this. :thumbs: but Ive had some luck with threading a bolt in to the crank and smacking it with a hammer and the fly wheel normally comes off. it should be tapered with a key way it it. then in the reassembly proses i use anti-seize on the taper the help out the next time i have to take apart. it my 2 cents worth.

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yes I did hit the puller. And now I have it sitting out there with pressure on the flywheel I have had luck with that in the past

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Ducky, putting any kind of lube on the crank taper is a bad idea. The engine relies one the friction between the flywheel and the taper to help transmit torque. The male and female taper surfaces should be clean and dry. The Kohler service manual even spells this out. I'm not trying to chastize you here, just trying to help out. :thumbs:

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yes I did hit the puller.

Bigger hammer! :thumbs:

putting any kind of lube on the crank taper is a bad idea.

As a machinist, I agree.

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is it possible if the key is messed up that its holding up the flywheel

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I would say your flywheel key is fine. Since the flywheel would have to spin on the shaft to shear.Thus being free enough it should pull with a puller with no trouble.I know that doesnt cure the problem at hand but I think your back to pulling the head.

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:thumbs: :) I'm very frustrated. I pissed with it till 2 in the morning. Still no flywheel inhand

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screw the nut back ont the flywheel until its even with the shaft get a large flat head screw driver and pry up then give the nut a few wacks with a hammer and it should pop loose. p.s. it has never failed me lik a puller has! :thumbs: :)

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flywheel is off after destroying an $200 snap-on puller but its off. key way and key look good. I pulled off heads and really can't see anything that shows a stuck or valve not seating. So I decided to pull of the drive pulley. and found a wonderful thing. the bearing that is under the pulley is shot. and it looks like the housing is gone that holds it in place is shot also. Please tell me this isn't the crank bearing.

1288883652.jpg

so now that I got it this far what caused the backfire and no start I really don't think the bearing had anything to do with that. and the no vacuum would cause a no start cause you wouldn't pull fuel to carb with only 10 inches. the valves really look good some carbon but not as bad as one would think on the engine. I really don't have the money to put into a rebuild but that may be the case cause of the vacuum loss. At least a re ring. but the bearing could get expensive in my mind cause of the housing being destroyed. :thumbs: . any input would be helpful Please

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I may just put back together and probly sell it I can't aford this right now and I don't want it sitting in the garage.

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screw the nut back ont the flywheel until its even with the shaft get a large flat head screw driver and pry up

Can you explain this a bit better. I'm not sure on what you're prying up.

flywheel is off after destroying an $200 snap-on puller but its off.

How did you end up getting it off? It's hard to see the pic. clearly, but I'm pretty sure the only bearing there is the crank bearing.

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