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started taking my 857 apart today. my plan is to make it a worker, we'll see how it turns out.

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this is what i started with.

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this is what the inside of the gas tank looks like. will an e-tank clean the inside of the gas tank?

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removing the pin from the hitch, it was stuck pretty tight

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as it sits now. overall it looks to be in pretty good shape.

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What great timing here in a month or so Gonna start on my 867 so looking forward to this..Thanks for sharing MIKE..... :thumbs:

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Great start and let the fun begin! Worker in the future or not, it is nice to give them a new coat of paint to make them shine! Looking forward to the finished product.

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Denny, about your question on the etank of the gas tank. I have never tried to etank the inside of anything, but if you try, you will have to put the donor rod down in the tank and make sure it doesn't touch the sides. Let us know if you try it and how it works. Typically, I just put rocks with kerosene in the tank and shake it until I think it is clean. Others have used similar approaches, but suspended it in a cement mixer or cloths drier to rotate the tank for a while.

The 857 was my first garden tractor. The 8 hp Kohler has a lot of torque and the short wheel base works great in smaller yards. My son has mine now for his yard. I have tried to upgrade him to others, but it is the one he learned to drive in the late 80's and grew up with, so, he wouldn't have any other. Ours is still a worker and has never let us down.

Have fun!!

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Denny, e tanking the fuel tank should not be an issue. I just did one on a D200.

Try this,

fill the tank with electrolyte and check for obvious leaks. If the tank has leaks, you may need to set the fuel tank in a tupperware container large enough to hold the tank. Both the tank and the tupperware container will need to be filled with the electrolyte solution.

Take a piece of 1/2 diameter pvc pipe, cap one end of the pipe and place it in the tank. Cut the pipe about an inch or two longer than the depth of the tank. Cutout a few holes in the pvc in "swiss cheese" pattern down the length of the pvc. Leave all the pvc intact at the point where the pvc meets the tank filler neck - this prevents an electrical short from the tank to the rebar to be fitted inside the pvc pipe.

Fit a piece of rebar down the pvc pipe and attach the red lead of the battery charger to the rebar. Negative battery lead goes to the fuel tank.

Let it cook and then repair any leaks in the fuel tank itself.

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Looks like you're off to a great start, Denny. :) Can't wait to see how it turns out. Keep the pics comin'. :thumbs:

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this is what the deck shell is for Scott, if this turns out half as good as that deck shell looks i'll be happy. S.O.I., i would not have thought of doing that. you guys are amazing! thank you. looks like i need to build an e-tank.

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Well now I can't wait to see this thing all cleaned up with that new deck underneath it! :thumbs:

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Good luck Denny... Looks like a great tractor to restore... :thumbs:

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this is what my 857 looks like now.

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removed the engine & trans over the weekend and pressure washed most of the parts. anyone have any ideas on repairing the 3/4" holes in the front frame plates. mine are wore pretty bad and i want to fix it so a new pin fits like it should.

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My 500 Special was worn like that, check out the bottom part of page one of this thread: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php/topic/7242-1968-500-special/

There's also a couple of pictures of welding up the grooves in the hinge pivot :thingy:

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My 500 Special was worn like that, check out the bottom part of page one of this thread: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php/topic/7242-1968-500-special/

There's also a couple of pictures of welding up the grooves in the hinge pivot :thingy:

good idea Mike, looks like the way to do it. THANK YOU.

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opened the 5053 trans. today to see how things look inside. almost no sludge in the oil, looks like the p.o. kept it changed. some of the gears have been ground off pretty good, i'll replace those with better gears from a "parts" trans.

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anyone have any advice on removing the bearing from the input drive gear? is it still available as a replacement bearing? the w.h. # on this brg. is 1518 and i think the # on the brg. is b-108 but it's hard to read.

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To remove that bearing you need a die-grinder with a a 1/4" metal grinding bit in it. Just cut it all the way through and then you can take a chisel and pound it in on itself until it comes loose.

Charlie

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To remove that bearing you need a die-grinder with a a 1/4" metal grinding bit in it. Just cut it all the way through and then you can take a chisel and pound it in on itself until it comes loose.

Charlie

thanks Charlie.

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I've had good luck with the pack it full of grease, and smack a close fitting shaft down the middle to hydraulic it out method.

The B-108 number sound right, but I need to dig out my notes and check. Maybe someone else can confirm it.

All the needle roller bearings are available thru the bearing houses, I get them from Motion Industries.

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I've had good luck with the pack it full of grease, and smack a close fitting shaft down the middle to hydraulic it out method.

The B-108 number sound right, but I need to dig out my notes and check. Maybe someone else can confirm it.

All the needle roller bearings are available thru the bearing houses, I get them from Motion Industries.

i've done that before Mike but it's been a long time. i don't have a small bit for my die grinder yet so i may try that. Thanks.

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i've done that before Mike but it's been a long time.

When a dollop of grease flies out and hits you in the eye, you'll remember all about it!!

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Get the grinder bit Denny...charlie is right...works like a champ. :thumbs: The rebuild is looking good.

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i'm starting to think about what tires i will put on my 857. Mine are pretty dry rotted so they need replaced. what do you guys replace these front tires with? They're 16x5.50-8 and i believe are no longer available in that size. DSC00581.jpgDSC00583.jpg

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I havent been able to find tires that size, and I have been told they are no longer available.

However Sarge found these a couple of days ago: http://www.tiresfromeurope.com/products/V49.asp

Available in a 5.70-8, and the tread pattern is close...

On my 1276 I went with 4.00-8 tri-ribs, I like the way they steer, but they dont look quite right on the tractor.

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However I dont think 16 6.50-8's would look right either, so for now I'll stick with the skinny ones.

Guess you could try and find some used ones, but I've never found a set that werent dry rotted. :thumbs:

How are you getting on with the gearbox?

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How are you getting on with the gearbox?

Thanks for the info Mike, i have the trans all apart just haven't got the bearings ordered yet. Right now i'm about to finish redoing one of our bathrooms so i haven't got much else done. i had a couple spare trans laying around so i have disassembled those in order to use the best gears from all three of them on this rebuild. i'll post pics when i reassemble it.

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but they dont look quite right on the tractor.

I'm going to have to disagree. That looks just fine.

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