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yokomist

Frozen Transmission

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yokomist

Seals all installed:

DSC01643.jpg

DSC01644.jpg

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yokomist

Ok Steve,

I have the 2nd and high shift rail in place and the input shaft and gear.

Do I push through the first ball bearing, the pin and spring and the second ball, then whilst holding it all in place with something drop in the other fork?

Bevan

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stevasaurus

Exactly. push in the first ball then the spring and the rod inside. If you don't have a pencil magnet a needle nose pliers may work. Lower the second ball down in line with the hole and use like an allen wrench to push the ball into the central post. Then while sliding the other fork down pull the allen wrench out and slip past the ball. boomshakalaka. :) :USA:

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yokomist

Haha Steve - Just like that huh!

I am taking a sec to regroup here, its the pushing the post past the ball whilst removing the punch all together part I am up to...

Any second now!

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stevasaurus

This just may be the hardest thing you ever do. They should make a video game out of doing this part. :wh: Put some grease on the parts...it holds better. :USA:

Don't use to big of a wrench to hold the ball...just enough to hold the ball with a little room to slid by. :)

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yokomist

GOOD LORD

If only I was a touch smarter sometimes!

The problem was I has the first shaft all the way pushed in and the first ball bearing was unable to sit in the indent in the first fork shaft. This ment that the second ball bearing wouldnt sit fluch with the shaft wall to allow the second fork to be slid into position!

DSC01647.jpg

DSC01646.jpg

DSC01645.jpg

Alrighty, onto the next step.

Bevan

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stevasaurus

Excellent, now just follow the directions and place the pieces back together. Use some grease, it will help hold things in place. Remember the reverse gear goes with the bevel up. very important. :)

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yokomist

Ok, let me know if you see anything I have done wrong here..

DSC01653.jpg

DSC01651.jpg

DSC01650.jpg

I have also put the diff back in, nuts up right? :)

Bevan

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stevasaurus

Yes...nuts up...and the bevel side of the reverse gear is up also.

Just asking...any parts left??? :) It looks great...the pictures show alot of pitting, but I really think you will be OK.

When you place the top half on...be gentle. A rubber hammer or a block of wood and a hammer to "tap" the top half down . Then start the bolts and work it closed a little at a time. Are you using any gasket cement???

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B-8074

Not to get off topic, but if you have a torch like the one for doing plumping. Take it and heat the metal around the pin. try not to heat the pin itself. heat it up good and then try to knock out the pin with a hammer and punch.

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yokomist

Well Steve, Thats the sad part. I dont have the gasket yet, Its still in transit from toro.

No parts left, but I do have a problem, I have started tearing it back down already. The shifter forks have no up and down movement.... hmmm Shouldnt they be able to slide up and down? They rotate just fine and the ball bearings dont let them rotate all the way, so that aspect appears to be functional.

Thanks,

Bevan

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yokomist

b-8074 - No thats not off topic at all!

I really wanted to do that and give the candle wax a go, but i dont have a torch.

I was even eyeing up my oven this morning.... do you think it would get hot enough?

Thanks all the same.

Bevan

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B-8074

Putting it in the oven would heat it evenly. The trick is to heat the outside metal so it expands to let the pin come out.

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stevasaurus

Also, a very nice trick that can save a lot of frustration. When you go to install the trans back on the frame, they recommend cutting the heads off of 2 3/8" x 16 x 2" bolts to use as studs to line up the bolt holes. Place them in the diagonal holes and place the bolts in the other holes and tighten. Then remove the stud bolts and place the other 2 bolts. This work great. I have tried this without the stud bolts and it is very easy to strip the threads. Not what you want to do. Make sure everything starts before putting a wrench to it. :)

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yokomist

I will try that one for sure Steve, thanks again for all your help, couldnt have made it without you.

I will let you know how it pans out once I get that gasket.

Thanks

Bevan

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JimD

Nice work guys! Steve, I knew you wouldn't abandon Bevan and leave him scratching his head trying to figure this out, especially since you were sick the other day. Good job Buckaroo. :)

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yokomist

And Steve was sick?

Thats being pretty commited to the cause!! Thanks Steve :)

And MikesRJ, that link was quite an education - hopefully #4 is the best choice!

Bevan

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yokomist

Thank goodness we wernt at a basketball game....

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sorekiwi

The problem was I has the first shaft all the way pushed in and the first ball bearing was unable to sit in the indent in the first fork shaft. This ment that the second ball bearing wouldnt sit fluch with the shaft wall to allow the second fork to be slid into position!

Well. you learnt thats how it's supposed to work Bevan! This is what stops you selecting two gears at once - when a gear on one rail is selected, the balls and the pin between the balls lock the other shaft from moving.

I may have a hitch lying around somewhere. I'll have a bit of a dig over the weekend. Whats left of your pin looks well stuck in there.

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stevasaurus

Just so there is no misunderstanding...to me boom-sha-ka-laka means like in basketball...a slam dunk. Not easy but it feels good when it happens. :)

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stevasaurus

Nice job Bevan...a lot of good information here, excellent pictures, and it was a pleasure going through this with you. I really enjoyed this...thank you. :)

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yokomist

I learnt alot during this little rebuild. Certainly takes alot of the difficulty out of it having someone to walk you through it. I never would have considered something like doing a transmission before, now I think I could do some other things that seem daunting to a layman. So thanks again Steve, its been a lot of fun :)

Mike, I am going to try some more on that hitch today, hopefully I can get the pieces out. Thanks for the offer though, I will let you know if I can get them out or not.

I know its generally not a good practice, but in the manual it talks about pushing in the clutch 3/4 of the way to shift while in motion... Any thoughts on this?

Also the exhaust piping coming from the engine is pretty rusted on this tractor, I tried to back it out from one of the elbows with a pipe wrench and it broke off with the threaded section still inside the elbow. I didnt want to try closer to the engine and mess it up there. What would you guys recommend for this? Should I try and find a smaller diameter pipe to slip inside as a coupler? I would like to do a stack on this tractor anyway.

Hopefully that gasket shows up today!

Thanks Gents,

Bevan

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yokomist

Transmission all ready for gasket:

DSC01658.jpg

Exhaust issue:

DSC01659.jpg

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