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dgjks6

Let the restoration begin

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It is a mini tire changer for rims up to 12 inches. My 312-8 and my craftsman all have leaky tires. I tubed on of the rears on the 312 and it was a long and painful (to me) process getting the tire off the rim.

I got it at harbor freight.

It does scratch the lip of the rim during tire removal. I will let you guys know how it is for installation, butI want to give the paint as much time as possible to cure prior to remonting them.

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When I paint my wheels, I deflate the tire, push the tire off the rim, then put tape around the tire behind the rim and paint. I do both sides, stand the tire up and paint both sides of the wheel. When the paint is dry, reinflate the tire. I have also used a large piece of cardboard and I cut a circle out slightly smaller than the rim, cut a straight line from the outer edge in to the circle, then place it around the wheel and tape the cut. I do this with the tire deflated also.

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Oh, and my question. My next step is to bolt the center console back on. Is there anything I need to do before that? Any other parts to put on first so I don't have to do the put on take off and put back on thing again?

Happens that just this past weekend I took the center console off my newly acquired 310-8 (found the tabs where the rear fender/seat support bolt on are both broken). Center console assembly looks pretty much identical to yours and no, I don't see anything you'll need to worry about later if you go ahead at this point and bolt it onto the frame.

Duff :banghead:

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Day #229

Cost update - I spent another $20 at Home Depot for towels, WD-40, some PB antiseize, steel wool, etc

Parts: $894

Tools: $367

Disposables: $164

Now for the updates. With the cold in the garage I decided to move the project in the basement. My son was non too happy because we had to unbolt the trans that we just put on and carry the frame to the basement. Then I put on a respirator and painted it.

Then the furnace picked up all the fumes and spread them through the house. Then I got yelled at.

But:

DSCF6754.jpg

And I have been testing how I am going to do the final coat. And I think I got it. Mind you this is all rattle can. I sand and them prime with rustoleum, then sand, then a few coats of the toro new red touch up paint. Then I finish it off with 3 coats of rustoleum clear enamel. Not show quality, but boy does it shine.

DSCF6755.jpg

The enamel takes days to dry so I am going to do all of the panels one at a time now so they will be ready for reassembly in 2012.

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from where i sit that belt cover looks show quality to me,nice job

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Be very careful with all them paint fumes in the house and around the furnace. When I was a kid the next door neighbors house burned to the ground due to fumes igniting. (not to mention its a damn good way to piss the old lady off with the stench of paint)

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This is almost getting silly, or it may be way past that, but...

Had 20 minutes today at home between jobs. Repainted the engine mount last night and thourght it woud take 2 minutes to bolt on.

Wrong. The front engine mounting bar is adjustable and I picked the wrong place to bolt it on. So now the front axle has to come off...again.

Anyway - weekend update. I need to post pictures, but I got the tower console mounted. It is red and the rest of the frame is black. When I put the bolts on they looked rusted and I could not paint them without a lot of taping. So off to the hardware store for some shiny bolts. I also bought a piece of glass so I can grinf the valve stems. I will post more on that later when I get the set up done.

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So off to the hardware store for some shiny bolts.

Greg, considering the amount of [excellent!] work you are putting into this machine, might I suggest using stainless steel hardware? Quite a few of us have tried it and it adds a real nice, low maintenance touch to the final look!

Duff :banghead:

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I am using stainless for bolts that I can not paint. But if I can paint them I do. I guess I am trying to save a little money. At 40 cents a bolt they are not cheap. I could add another $100 in bolts.

By the way - took the axle off again. Did you know you can loosen one tir rod, on c-clip and one bolt and get the axle out. I do now. Engine mount is on.

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Progress update:

DSCF6997.jpg

DSCF6990.jpg

Got the valves in and decided to paint the engine:

DSCF6995.jpg

Now I am onto the brake/clutch - so first I am putting on the brake linkage and pedal. When I opened the brake bag I got one washer - the one on the left, the other two were in the clutch pedal bag.

DSCF6998.jpg

The wheel horse parts viewer shows 3 washers on the clutch pedal and none on the brake side. Is this correct?

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Greg, I don't know about a C85, but the 300's have washers on both pedals. In fact, on the 312-8's they use spring washers (I think that's what they call them - wavy critters that apply pressure when compressed) in addition to flat washers. Maybe an option for you, too?

Duff :banghead:

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Sorry, no pics today, butI am at work for a 24 hour shift so I will be staring at red square and ebay - and looking through my cd manual for any tips on my rebuild.

Day # 239

Parts = $898 (added $4 for bolts)

Tools = $373 (added $6 for a piece of glass)

Disposables = $180 (added $16 for sand paper, grinding wheel, other odds)

Update - engine now has a flw wheel on it - I can see the end in sight. I need a strap wrench to hold the fly wheel to get the proper torque - and then I need to figure out how to get 250 ft/lbs

I almost have the brake/clutch set up on. Still trying to sort out the emergency brake set up, then onto the lift arm. Then she has to leave the basement and go back to the garage.

Lesson for the week: It never ceases to amaze me how may ways I can put things on wrong. This time I had the bar for the brake lever backwards. Had to take it off and put back on correctly. So far I have done the same step many times. I have had the front axle off 3 times, the trans on and off, the brake lever turned around, the cam shaft in and out multiple times, and other things I can not think of.

Also, I keep debating taking short cuts to speed up the process. I almost left the cluth assembly intact for the repaint because no one will ever no or see it except me. But since this project makes no economical sense either time or money wise, I keep taking every bolt off, cleaning, painting it, and scratching the paint as I put it back together. I even sprayed some engine paint in a lid and used a brush to detail spots of the block I missed with the spray.

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I keep taking every bolt off, cleaning, painting it, and scratching the paint as I put it back together. I even sprayed some engine paint in a lid and used a brush to detail spots of the block I missed with the spray.

Now that's my kind of rebuild! Well done, sir! (I keep some Q-tips around the shop for scratch touch-ups...)

~Duff :banghead:

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As always, I am thinking 6 steps ahead. I am getting ready to order decals for the tractor.

The serial number 01-08K802 (I think I remember correctly). The toro master parts viewer says 1981 c-81. I have read here that the parts viewer is wrong.

Can someone confirm for me this is a 1981 c-85 before I place my order?

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As always, I am thinking 6 steps ahead. I am getting ready to order decals for the tractor.

The serial number 01-08K802 (I think I remember correctly). The toro master parts viewer says 1981 c-81. I have read here that the parts viewer is wrong.

Can someone confirm for me this is a 1981 c-85 before I place my order?

Here is the data for the Model number you posted.

It's a C81 not C 85. According to records. We have to assume they are correct for your purposes.

01-08K802 1981 C Series Garden Tractor C-81 8-Speed Kohler K181S-30743D 8 Wheel Horse 103916.

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Nope - they're wrong!

It is most certainly a C-85 "black hood" third-generation C series.

The 1978/79 C-81 is a "wide-body" version of the older C series.

Thanks Terry, Stand corrected.That's another amendment for me to make. I also found the 01-08k802 shows up for 80 and 81 on my other list and yes it shows as a C85.

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Daily update:

Got home from work at 1pm. Kids were off school today. I was tired. So I sub contracted out the parts cleaning, sanding, and preping (read 7 and 9 year old daughter). Not up to my usual mediocre standards, but the labor was cheap and you get what you pay for. I did not have the heart to re clean everything after all the work that was put in and how proud they were of their work so everything in drying in the basement after getting primed.

DSCF7001.jpg

The talk at the dinner table tonight was the June show and they all want to go, but they want me to be different and paint the tractor like a rainbow.

I also figured out why everything was red. It is a pain to mix and match black and red parts and then touch them up when I scratch something.

Now for the big news:

Score:

DSCF7000.jpg

$42 including shipping.

Kelly, I hope your son is not mad for me copying his tractor almost exactly. I was actually trying for a newer rear fender (so I could put my cupholder on it), but this was the first fender I got. The others were too $$

So totals:

Day #241

Parts = $940

Tools = $390 (paid $17 for a heavy duty strap wrench)

Disposables = $188 (got some glue and hairpin fasteners while at Sears)

The only major purchase left is the decals which I am going to order shortly.

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I have to say this is one of the most interesting and entertaining threads on this forum. I've been following from the beginning and it's the first thing I look for when I login to Redsquare.

Keep up the good work! :banghead:

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Now for the updates. With the cold in the garage I decided to move the project in the basement. My son was non too happy because we had to unbolt the trans that we just put on and carry the frame to the basement. Then I put on a respirator and painted it.

Then the furnace picked up all the fumes and spread them through the house. Then I got yelled at.

Not to mention your can blow your house up :banghead:

Try this: Paint Booth

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I think I am going to set up something like that. I am about to start on the body panels and can set something like that up near the basement door and vent it outside.

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What is the enemy of good?

Better.

I was painting the lift arm - it was a thing of beauty. Then I thought I could make it better and the paint ran.

I think I got the clutch on today. Still have to find the spring and figure out where it goes. I would be lost if I didn't have you guys here and a 312 and a 416 in the garage to go look at.

Also - fuel pump is bad. I ordered a new after market one. Kohler OEM was $80 and knock off was $48.

It is starting to look like a tractor.

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