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dgjks6

Let the restoration begin

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First the good

Day #270

Parts - $1108 - spent $82 at the toro dealer. Got all the missing parts - only thing left is the decals. The owner also gave me a bunch of wire and the connectors I needed the were no longer made. He had a bucket of old switches, etc. I did have to buy a new clutch interlock switch though - was $33.

Tools - $390 - no change

Disposables - $223 - no change

Now the bad...

I f%^&$%g quit. I am sorry for the bad language, but I can't take it anymore.

So my son gets home from school and we carry the frame to the garage. I have nothing to do the rest of the day and figure I can get a ton done. Then have to drive kids, cook, etc and before I know it, its 8 o'clock.

So I inflate and put on the front wheels. Easy as pie.

Then I go to bolt on the transmission. Someone should have told me you have to take off the hi/low lever to get the transmission on.

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Anyway, so instead of taking it off I try to lower the front of the transmission and bring it back up. There is this beautiful handle coming from the transmission to use to maneuver the transmission. Then it breaks off in my hand. :thumbs:

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If you can't tell I snapped off the dipstick. trans falls foreward and fluid goes all over.

I take a few deep breaths, take off the shift lever, and put the trans on a jack. Line up the holes and guess what?

Only 3 bolts will go in. I can not get the fourth bolt started. So I get the tap and die set I recently pilfered from my parents house. My Dad was not the best organizer, the metric and SAE are all mixed up. After sorting thorugh everything guess which tap is the only one missing? You're right if you said the 5/16 18.

Oh - and I found another part the I have no idea where it goes

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Its in the parts bucket and I have no idea from where it came - but the only thing I put in the bucket are parts as I took the tractor apart.

OK - I feel better after venting.

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If 4 bolts un-screwed right out of there easy when you took it apart, then 4 should screw right back in easy. Make sure the other 3 are lose while you are trying to start the 4th.

If you do hafta run the tap in it, take the whole tranny off to do it where you can get to it easier.

Just remember what I told ya in that email I sent ya several months back

Ronnie

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Toolman - good to see ya back.

I bet you laugh when you see the cost of this.

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Only 3 bolts will go in. I can not get the fourth bolt started. So I get the tap and die set I recently pilfered from my parents house. My Dad was not the best organizer, the metric and SAE are all mixed up. After sorting thorugh everything guess which tap is the only one missing? You're right if you said the 5/16 18.

Stick at it !. If your talking about running a Tap into the Tranny Bolt hole,I would avoid it if you can unless the threads are damaged. The Thread size for these four bolts should be 3/8" x 16tpi, not 5/16". Also the Lower bolts are 7/8" long and the Top ones are 3/4" long.

Try placing bolts through the Frame into the lower right hole and the upper left first, then the lower left and finally upper right. Your frame may be just out of line in relation to the Tranny.

Works every time for me and not needed to make Taper point bolts to line it up as the manual suggests.

Sorry , I don't know what the surplus part is for. :thumbs:

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That pin looks familiar and as a guy who has taken apart several C-Series, it bugs me I don't know what it is! :thumbs:

It does look like a wrist pin from a piston...if it is that size....

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Well - got the transmission on.

Its a 2 person job. Took it off, swore a lot, called my son to help, put the hardest bolt in first, scratched a lot of paint off, and after 10 minutes-got it.

And yep - its the wrist pin - I went and looked at the old piston and it was gone so somehow it made it to the box.

Thanks all.

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Lets see now

part of the lift shaft?

spacer inside of tranny?

goes over crank where the clutch goes on?

someting you forgot on the steering?

I'm down to guessing here, heck, it mighta been something the wife or kids threw in the bucket that don't even go to the tractor

to late as usual

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Anyone got any ideas how to get the plastic piece out of the trans without breaking it in pieces and having it drop in the transmission so I have to remove it again and split it again and put in on again?

I have only put it on twice and I seem to have to so everything three times - and I would like to change this pattern.

By the way, to get the hi/low shifter handle on I had to remove the brake assembly (bellcrank assembly) and chip the paint -

Oh - and this was the third time I had to take it off.

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I think that just screws out if it is the piece I think it is.

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Yup it is threaded into the trans case.I just removed one on Monday.If its broken off, you could use a easyout for pipes, I have one that I got at Ace that has a T handle and the easyout end kind of looks like a reamer. I should walk right out with one of those.

John

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Find a good heavy duty pair of outside snap ring pliers, stick the end in the hole an squeeze like hell an turn.

If worst comes to worse, drive it on in there. The gears will grind that plastic up into powder an then you can drain it out with the oil next year.

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By the way, you can get a replacement for that tube pretty easy. Just be sure and keep your dipstick because sometimes the rubber at the top gets worn out and you might be able to use yours.

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I bought a used tube and dipstick on ebay. The good thing is that the 416-8 I have came without a dipstick so I solved 2 problems with one accident - provided I can get the tube out when I get home.

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It shouldn't be sized in there, it's only plastic. It won't fall inside unless you try unscrewing it the wrong way and thread it into the trans. Another idea is take a small chisel and set it on top of where it's broken off at a 45 degree angle and tap it with a hammer in the direction it needs to unscrew. It should get a bite into the plastic and rotate. When it's out far enough, you can use a pair of channel locks and grab it and turn it the rest of the way.

Good luck!

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Lots of ways to remove that broken piece. Quickest is an old wide bladed screwdriver heated up and push down in the hole so it softens the plastic and forms a slot. withdraw the screwdriver and allow the plastic to cool and harden.

When they are both cool, re-insert the Screwdriver and unscrew the piece.

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Daily update and confirmation question

Got the piece out. One you told me it was screwed and not pressed in it came out without a hitch (OK 20 minutes of tinkering, but for me that is quick)

Ta da! I have a rolling chassis

DSCF7123.jpg

Now for the question. This is the clutch spring - correct? The 416 I have has a massive spring that is not remotely connected right. The 312 has a psring where I think this one goes, but it has two round ends on it and I don't have a spring that looks like that in my collection of parts.

Also - if it is the right one, which way does it go?

DSCF7124.jpg

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The clutch spring should be the same bend on both ends. The left end is correct, the right end has been bent out of shape. It should go on either way with the correct bends in it.

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thanks jim. Now I have another part to order.

So I put the engine on today. Just like every step I learned something. Today it was you need to put the engine mounting bolts in before you put on the engine mount. So off it came, and of course there were the scratches that go along with it. Now the engine is on.

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Oh - and I learned the wiring has to come off the back on the engine, not between the carb and fuel pump.

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It won't reach that way.

But today - I spent 6 hours working for my wife, drove home from cleveland, worked 30 minutes on the horse, went back to cleveland for 4 hours, got home and worked 15 minutes and in this short time feel like I did alot.

Got the brake hooked up, painted another dipstick tube, put the engine on, and put the regulator/solenoid plate on. This is starting to get fun again. For weeks I have seen no real progress, now I see and end in sight - maybe in 2013, but its there. The parts pile is getting smaller and the tractor bigger.

Anyone out there taking bets on whether the engine will actually start?

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Now that you can see it coming together its going to start going faster for you. You will probably be more and more anxious to work on it as time and money allows. Its looking really good,you have been thru a lot with it, but your almost there and before you know it, you will be behind the wheel driving it for the first time with a big ole grin on your face :thumbs: You should be really proud of yourself :thumbs:

John

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Its taken a long time , but everything is looking fine. You will be driveing it around before you know it Very nice job

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You are to be commended for the work and $$ you've put into this "labor of love" !! When your done you might be able to sell it at a Barretts/Jackson auction for $50,000.00 EASY !!!

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