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I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that
The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.
The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal.
The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500.
My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information.
Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zp8ty4oxctzvt8a/Wheel Horse Hydro Foot Pedal Instructions V3.pdf?dl=0
I am selling these kits for $250 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below.
So this is my man's @Rp.wh12 hp '68? Raider that had a little mishap at my recent plow event. Good news here is the block was not ventilated so we think with a little coin and some greasy hands this motor can be saved. It seems that when a rod goes it will either punch the block or go the other way to the cam. Which is what it did breaking the cam. Note the indent on the fuel pump lobe where something wacked it. Piston shirt was busted up pretty good as it looks like the piston was slammed down on the crank. Wrist pin was ovaled and the whole bottom of the piston was mashed. This was done under a full load of dirt and plowing. @PeacemakerJack claims to have a video of when it went so perhaps he'll share here.
I chewed my man's rear out about it running it low on low oil and tipped over in the furrow but he swears he topped it off before the day. I dunno but but not much oil came out and what did was sludge. Regardless damage is done so let's just fix it. New 10 over piston with rings is in order along with a new cam and 10 under rod. Bore is clean and not tapered so a std. piston and rings might be fitted in but is getting close to max out of tolerance so might as do it right. Obviously suffering from some low end lubrication issues.
Hello all - I have a 1990 312-8 that recently started being a pain to shift, and eventually it stopped shifting into 1st and reverse and was hard to get into 2nd and 3rd. After looking at some posts on here I discovered the possibility that a loose shifter could cause this problem. My shifter definitely had a lot of play in it so I proceeded to pull the seat, rear plate and shift plate off the tractor so I could get to the area where the shifter goes into the transmission. I removed the shifter, reseated it and got the dog head screw lined up in the shifter donut and was hoping that would fix the issue, but after getting it all reassembled and trying to shift even into 2nd or 3rd the shifter, while not as sloppy, now just turns side to side - taking it back out and inspecting the shifter I have discovered that the pin which holds the donut in place on the shifter has sheered and the donut is now able to free spin on the shaft. Not too much of a problem as I plan on just pressing the old pin out and replacing, however I am concerned that the ball on the end of the shifter seems to be getting pretty flattened off on the left and right sides of the ball. I tried looking up a replacement on Toro and several other parts websites but I can't find one anywhere - I can get the boot, everyone has those, but no shifter. My question is, does anyone know where I might be able to find a new shifter and more important, is a little flattening on the ball anything to worry about?
Also, with the shifter out, looking down the hole my transmission looks like it's full of mud! Definitely doesn't look like the gear oil I put in it - anyone know what could be causing the transmission gear oil to be sludging up like that?