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Hey guys, what rear ends were the higher geared ones? We have one 520 that had a rear end replaced and it is a lot faster than the other. As far as I have been informed, 520hc's and 417's. Where there any others? How many teeth are there on the high speed gears versus the regular gears?
By Mike Nelson
Hello to all. I have a 1973 Wheel Horse 12 automatic in pretty good shape. It has been in continuous summer use since the day it was new. This machine is only used for lawn cutting in Wisconsin. It spends it's winters inside of a garage that is attached to my house. It has never been left outside when not in use. It has the famous Kohler K series engine, (K301). Other than a replaced fuel pump, and standard tune up items, this tough old engine has never been worked on internally. Over the last few years, I can tell it is has lost some power. It also has begun to use oil (sae 30w) at an increasing rate, Although no signs of smoking. It is also seeping some oil out of the governor shaft bushing. Because this is such a tough old tractor, and the fact that I have a spare hydro unit, I have decided to rebuild this engine. Heck, it's already got 43 years of use from this tough engine. I am not wanting to just "THROW some rings in there" and call it a rebuild. OH NO! I will do this the right way.
I would love to just get a new Kohler short block and call it a day, but I know they are getting rare now especially trying to match up with my unique spec number. So I will have to do a complete tear down and rebuild. I will leave no stone unturned. I have no knowledge of machine shop procedures, but I should have no problem, to dissemble, clean, have machine shop work done, then reassemble. The reason I posted this, is to ask if anyone knows of a genuine small engine machine shop, without a bunch of high school kids learning how on my engine. I have tried in the past to have quality work done at machine shops, and I have discovered that with all my ignorance in this area, I was more informed than most of them. The one place I came to trust is long gone now. I always run this engine full blast when cutting the lawn (wide open throttle) that is why I would like OEM Kohler parts inside. I know getting OEM for something this old will not be easy, but I am much more concerned about finding a trusted and competent machine shop to do quality work. I can find do it yourself machine shop hacks anywhere,
MOST of the members here are well informed, caring and dedicated folks who care about preserving the classic old Wheel Horse. Can you please give me your thoughts on undertaking this rebuild?
Thanks so much
I just got a GT-14, and its clear it needs a bit of maintence and repair. I am thinking the first thing I should do is get the engine running smoothly. It bogs down and stalls if I open the throttle too far. So, I want to drain the tank, change the air filter, change the fuel filter and clean the carb this weekend.
However, I am concerned about the availability of replacement parts and gaskets.
I read the K321 manual about servicing the carbs and the only items it mentioned replacing were float nut gasket, the bowl ring gasket, the needles and seats, and the bowl baffle gasket.
I was curious why there were no o-rings mentioned for the adjustment needles. Are there none? And where do you guys get replacement gaskets? I remember someone said that the float nut gasket can be gotten from a hardware store, but what about the bowl ring and baffle gaskets?
My intention was to disassemble and soak the whole carb in aqua seal, but I don't want to dissolve any important rubber parts.
I just purchased my first wheel horse tractor. It is a 1995 520H serial #5901574 and I have a few questions to ask. When I received the tractor the idler pulley on the main drive belt was shot so I replaced it. I notice that the drive belt is still doing a lot of jumping and may be stretched. The parts diagram shows the belt but the diagram doesn't seem to be the same as my model. It lists the drive belt as 5/8" x 83". Can anyone tell me if this is correct? Also the hydro transmission seems to be slightly engaged when in neutral and it will move forward when parked. If I put the brake on it sounds like the transmission is trying to move. Any adjustment for this? I am using this to mow about 3 acres of grass that has a lot of obstacles and I am wonder if the hydro tranny will take a lot of forward and reverse motion? I did tighten the bolt a little on the tranny shift linkage to stop the shift lever from dropping down when it was in motion.