Another frustrated soul with non-removable hubs

[rickv1957 70]

Bob,congrats on the hub removel!! Rick

[WH854 44]

:D I am glad you got them off! I have one I will have to remove one day.The other side I got off,I gave up on the left side, I take the locking screw out once in awhile an squirt PBblaster in the hole put screw back in an keep running it (maybe) just maybe it will help to lossen it up

Chas :D

[rmaynard 14,863]

The left one took the longest for me. The right one I used more 'fire'.

Running it with PB Blaster in the screw holes seem like a good idea.

Bob

[pfrederi 17,121]

Only thing I need to find is 3/8" grade 8 bolts with all-thread. My local TSC sells grade 8, but no all-thread.

Bob

I used bolts from McMasters. The ones I used were 5"" long 3/8 Grade 8 fully Threaded. You can get them up top 6" long full thread but they are pricey.

6" bolts

They also have Grade 8 all thread rod. 3' would make you 5 7" for only a few bucks

all thread gr 8

[Raider12 13]

Your very fortunate, you have a web site full of knowledge and experince that is priceless. When I bought my first wheel horse 22 years ago. I to needed to remove a hub. There were no such thing as a wed site to turn to. I broke one hub with the hammer and ended up knocking the axle shaft out on the other side. I learned the hard way Glad to hear you got them off.

I to use the permatex never-seize. But I prefer the copper type over the aluminum.

Denver

[Duff 206]

While we're on the subject of Neverseize, is there a way to soften the stuff up if it starts to skim over in the jar? I keep it tightly closed but it even came from the store with a skim on it like paint in a half-full can. Any recommended solvent that can be stirred in?

Thanks!

Duff :omg:

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Duff,

I have had a plastic container of Permatex Never-Seize separate out like you see in an old can of oil based paint.

I have just remixed the container - like stirring very thick paint- and never had any bad outcomes from using remixed Never-Seize.

The container is over 10 years old and it does separate out in about a year's timeframe.

:omg:

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

On a smei-related matter

I recently was working on getting a nut off a shaft.

I heated up the nut and then place ice on the screw!

Boy is it good when you finally get those toughies apart! :omg:

[Duff 206]

Duff,

I have had a plastic container of Permatex Never-Seize separate out like you see in an old can of oil based paint.

I have just remixed the container - like stirring very thick paint- and never had any bad outcomes from using remixed Never-Seize.

The container is over 10 years old and it does separate out in about a year's timeframe.

Thanks, Chuck!

Duff :omg:

[Iggy68 28]

Getting a nut off a shaft and using never-seize...we are talking about hub removal still...right. :D

[piecrazy4 0]

some people put engine oil in there never seize

[trapperjoe 1]

Just a thought... about putting PB in the set-screw hole on the hub. What if you made a fitting to thread into the hole part way and be airtight on the threads. Then using compressed air, inject PB or other solvent into the set-screw hole? If it holds the pressure, maybe close a valve to hold the solvent and pressure in, dissconnect the air and drive it a little.

Just a thought, (Not responsible for accidents!) lol

Joe

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Score another one for the hub puller arrangement described in this thread - just pulled 2 hubs off a c175 that would not come off with a 3 jaw puller.

This arrangement had both hubs off in about 20 minutes using my trusty 3 year old electric impact wrench from HF - no heat - toot sweet (and unfortunately - no cheerleaders)

Some folks have been concerned over using the 3/8ths bolts not fully threaded.

No problem really. When you first assemble the puller - place the nuts at the very end of the 3/8 bolts. Snug up the 1" hub bolt to the tractor axle and crank away about 3 turns per each of the 5 bolts until you bottom out the nuts on the 3/8 bolts.

Back off the nuts on each 3/8 bolt back to the very end of each bolt. The hub should be about 1" inch further down the axle shaft by now. Just snug up the 1" hub bolt further into the tractor hub until it contacts the axle again. Crank each of the 5 bolts 3 turns each until all 5 bolts are once again at the end of the threaded portion of the 3/8 bolts.

Rinse and repeat until the hub is fully off the tractor axle.

No need to buy the fully threaded (expensive) 3/8ths bolts. The partially threaded bolts at TSC will do the job - just a little slower than the fully threaded one, but readily available and cheaper.

:omg:

[rmaynard 14,863]

Some folks have been concerned over using the 3/8ths bolts not fully threaded. No problem really. When you first assemble the puller - place the nuts at the very end of the 3/8 bolts. Snug up the 1" hub bolt to the tractor axle and crank away about 3 turns per each of the 5 bolts until you bottom out the nuts on the 3/8 bolts.

Back off the nuts on each 3/8 bolt back to the very end of each bolt. The hub should be about 1" inch further down the axle shaft by now. Just snug up the 1" hub bolt further into the tractor hub until it contacts the axle again. Crank each of the 5 bolts 3 turns each until all 5 bolts are once again at the end of the threaded portion of the 3/8 bolts.

Rinse and repeat until the hub is fully off the tractor axle.

No need to buy the fully threaded (expensive) 3/8ths bolts. The partially threaded bolts at TSC will do the job - just a little slower than the fully threaded one, but readily available and cheaper.

If I made another one, I would get a longer 1" bolt and thinner nut. I used a 5-1/2" long bolt and had no extra to work with, especially since their 1" nuts are so thick. TSC was out of everything over 5-1/2". I ended up using grade 5 all thread 3/8" bolts from Home Depot, and grade 8 nuts from TSC. It worked for two hubs so far.

Bob

[stevasaurus 22,229]

Bob...this is a great thread. I will be looking for a spare hub at the shows.

So far, I have been lucky with hubs and the hitch pins on the back of the transmissions. Knock on wood. :D